Advice please | Using a Sinar F1 as a field camera

LoganCAdams · Mar 6, 2012

I'm considering buying a Sinar F1 kit in the classified section. The thing is, I primarily want to do field work. A fair amount of it will be things I can drive pretty close to, but I also want to be able to hike this kit in.

The weight (10-15 pounds) doesn't bother me. I've hiked considerable miles with heavier gear.

I just want a way to pack it that's better (more compact) than the big case.

One suggestion I've received is to remove the bellows and turn the standards 90 degrees. Are there any other ideas?

I should note I already have a Crown Graphic in great shape that I can take on the longer hikes. It has rather limited movements, though.

David A. Goldfarb · Mar 6, 2012

The most compact and sturdy way is to pack it on a short rail with the bellows collapsed into a block.

Another approach is to unclip the bellows from the front standard and tilt it all the way back, parallel to the rail. Then raise the rear standard with the bellows and tilt it all the way forward, parallel to the rail, over the front standard with the lens inside the bellows.

AnselAdamsX · Mar 6, 2012

My Sinar F will fit into a regular backpack on the 12 INCH rail. I'll try and post a picture when I get a chance. Carrying 4-5 lenses and 10 holders brings my pack weight to 35 pounds.

George Collier · Mar 6, 2012

I carried a Cambo with the bellows removed, with the standards rotated, as you're thinking. I carried it sandwiched between foam sheets in a fairly flat case. The dust killed me. I found that once I cleaned the bellows out at home before leaving, I was best to leave the bellows on for shooting. Changing bellows from an accordion to bag bellows in the field is ok, but carrying it in the case seemed to introduce a lot of dust. Maybe it was the foam.

Ben Marks · Mar 9, 2012

The Sinar you are looking at is highly modular and VERY well made. You could use it as a field camera, you just have to understand its limitations. Removing the front and rear standards is one solution. I have walked out with one assembled and carried it by the monorail. Quicker to set up that way. However, it is probably not the lightest, most purposeful solution to the problem. FWIW, LF photography is a slower, more contemplative process. It is worth being skeptical of claims that you will "miss the shot" because a field camera was quicker to set up than a monorail.

Ben Marks

pgomena · Mar 10, 2012

Yes, a field camera is not a whole lot faster to set up than a Sinar. I lugged a Sinar F2 around for three years. It was great for studio work and location shots, but backpacking it was not something I ever considered. Add weight for lenses, dark cloth, film holders, meter, filters, lens shade, and a few accessories. Then consider that a field camera weighs about 8-9 pounds less and folds up into a small package. It may be somewhat less versatile than a Sinar, but it makes sense for some.

Look at it this way, if you buy it and don't like it, you'll be able to sell it to someone else for what you paid for it. It's a buyer's market for Sinar gear, so you should be able to get it/sell it reasonably easily at the right price. The F1 model was replaced by the F2 more than 20 years ago, but the differences are small. In good condition, it will last for many years, but bear in mind it is not a new model. That should figure some into price negotiations.

Peter Gomena

dagist · Mar 14, 2012

Logan,

You can quickly and easily remove the bellows on the Sinar and rotate the two standards 90 degrees as you were advised. Using the 12" monorail, it reduces the size to a very back-packable 13" x 15" x 6" and it only weighs 7.5 pounds (with a 150mm Apo Lanthar attached). Not 9-10 pounds as you were told. You can wrap the whole thing in your dark cloth along with a half dozen holders which will fit on top of the standards without increasing the 6" depth.

I highly recommend the Sinar system. It is the most versatile, modular, and well made system I have ever used and I still use it regularly. You won't be disappointed, and as Peter said, you can probably sell it for what you paid for it.

Cheers,
Rob McElroy
Buffalo, NY

mgb74 · Mar 15, 2012

Pack frames work well for carrying large, bulky items. A view camera on 12" rail and in an appropriately sized hard case can easily fit on the frame and be quickly attached/detached. I'm not sure that fits your definition of compact though.

chuck94022 · Mar 15, 2012

If you primarily want to do field work, seems to me that buying a field camera in the first place is the better way to go. I'm currently living in China and had a chance to check out the relatively new Chinese Chamonix 4x5 field camera. It is absolutely beautiful. Lots of movements front and back (including center tilt, which I *really* want), long swappable bellows, just plenty of options, and light as a feather. In the shop there was a Chamonix and Shen Hao together on the shelf. The Shen Hao (also a beautiful camera) weighed a ton compared to the Chamonix. The latter incorporates carbon fiber in the base (totally new to me) but it is gorgeous. The Chamonix is about US$800 new. I am sorely tempted to pick up one to replace my Wista (which is a great, light camera, but the bellows is too short and not removable).

Pupfish · Mar 17, 2012

You may want to consider exactly what lenses, and then what moves you need for them-- before deciding which camera comes next.

I use 90mm, 135mm and 210mm lenses. Unless you want to go ultrawide you might consider a metal or wood technical field/folder with more moves than the Crown. Can't beat one for fast takedown and setup, especially one with a good working rangefinder. All other field cameras will seem slow by comparison, like when you're trying to get a shot of storm light a-poppin' between deluges.

Personally I bought a nice Sinar Norma with bag bellows and fresnel to use with a 90mm Nikkor SW f/8. I liked it for back rise/front fall, and when in a close to the car setting it was easy enough to manage. But on the trail it was also a bit of an awkward brick--one that I never used once in an entire summer spent photographing Yellowstone and Glacier Parks. That summer, however, I used my Meridian all the time. Sold the Sinar--and a Graflex Super Graphic, a camera I might have warmed up to more had I not already owned the Meridian).

LoganCAdams · Mar 24, 2012

Thank you everyone for your excellent advice. I've decided to go for it and buy the Sinar.

I've come to really love this forum and learning from the people on it. You are all incredibly helpful and I really appreciate it.

PHinSD · Apr 3, 2012

Other candidates

You may wish to consider a Linhof Technikardan 45 or Color Kardan 45-S. If you wish to use a digital back, look at the 23. These cameras are pretty compact when collapsed, especially the Technikardan. Happy shooting and don't forget a tripod with a geared head sitting atop a Bogen leveling head.

Rick Rosen · Apr 4, 2012

The F+ and other F models fold beautifully. In Sinar's terminology "F" stands for field.

See my next post for instructions and pics.

Rick

Rick Rosen · Apr 4, 2012

I worked for Sinar presenting seminars back in the '70-'80's so I am quite familiar with the F+. I own one.

The camera can be folded quite easily and carried in a backpack.

I hope the pictures help me to describe the procedure:

1. Attach the bellows to the back of the ground glass back like you would if you were using it as a viewing hood
2. Move the standards to the ends of the 12" rail
3. Loosen the rise/fall knobs and tilt knobs on both standards
4. Fold the rear standard down against the rail with the ground glass facing upward and the bellows attached
5. Then fold the front standard down to rest on top of the bellows
6. Tighten the rise/fall knobs and tilt knobs
7. Leave the tripod mount on the tripod
8. Depending on your lens you can often leave the lens attached to the inside of the front standard which will offer it some protection

Hope that helps. If I can answer any other questions about Sinar I will try so please send me an email: Rick@rickrosen.com

I also teach large format workshops in CA and it does my heart good to see there is still interest!

LoganCAdams · Apr 4, 2012

Rick, that is so cool. I will have to try that when I get home.

Daytonwheel · Apr 15, 2012

Rick,

This may be the best tips that I've had for my Sinar. I just folded my F2's up per your instructions. They are more secure and everything is together.

Thanks

Lloyd

mikecurrie · Apr 17, 2012

At last! I can carry my Sinar! Thank You so much!

DREW WILEY · Apr 18, 2012

I think a Sinar is much faster to use in the field than any folding field camera. You can leave the lens
on and simply telescope out the bellows on the monorail, plop the rail into the clamp (already on the
tripod) and focus. I've carried my F2 with an 18-inch rail thousands of miles of mountains and deserts. I pack into a big vintage Kelty external frame pack, often cushioned in a goosedown jacket.
The long rail just rests across the top of the pack opening. Like me it's gotten worn out over the
decades, so I recently replaced it with a lovely similarly-configured 4x5 Norma. All the components are interchangeable - another nice feature. But with 8X10, which I use the most, a folder is more
compact. And on very long backpacks I use an Ebony 4X5 folder these days, just so I'll have extra
room in the pack for something called fooooood.

Advice please | Using a Sinar F1 as a field camera

LoganCAdams

David A. Goldfarb

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AnselAdamsX

George Collier

Ben Marks

pgomena

dagist

mgb74

chuck94022

Pupfish

LoganCAdams

PHinSD

Rick Rosen

Rick Rosen

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Advice please | Using a Sinar F1 as a field camera

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