Advice on solvents and lubricants

[AndyH]

I've been working on old cameras for several decades, but I've been following a number of threads here covering CLAs and other repairs mentioning different fluids. I've always used naphtha, diluted with alcohol, for cleaning unpainted metal parts, and isopropyl alcohol around anything painted, rubber, or plastic. CRC contact cleaner is also useful. I've also used hydrogen peroxide when working on removing something that's stubborn and organic in nature. I generally do a final rinse in alcohol.

I use watchmaker's oil in general, just a drop or two on appropriate locations, but my old bottle is getting low and it's time to replenish. I've heard suggestions of Tri Flow Liquid and pure silicone watch oil. The former is used on bicycles, I think, and the latter is available at Esslinger.

Any suggestions from experienced repair people? All help appreciated.

Andy

 

[Scott Micciche]

I continue to use clock oil for escapement pins and for larger bearing surfaces, where grease is required, I've moved to DuPont's Krytox 205 or 206 as it doesn't dry out and has a huge temperature range.

 

[Nodda Duma]

silicone-based lubricants tend to creep. Eventually the entire world will be covered with a thin layer of silicone.

Krytox GPL 207/206/205 are good choices for grease, due to their vacuum application and thus low outgassing nature (btw Krytox recommends pulling a vacuum on the grease before use to precondition it...ie pull the bulk of the volatiles out, after which it is considered low outgassing)

 

[bsdunek]

To bad you can't get Porpoise Jaw Oil any more. That stuff was the best.

 

[AgX]

silicone-based lubricants tend to creep. Eventually the entire world will be covered with a thin layer of silicone.

All oils creep. However the creeping of silicone oils is pronounced. Moreover the spread layers got surface characteristics that are unwanted (to me) and are not easy to remove. I try to avoid silicone-oil based lubricants, but typically they are the best for plastic materials or in use at high temperature.

 

[AgX]

A issue not to be overlooked is terminology.
For instance "Naphta". In Germany it means a different solvent with different CAS-number and the term is unknown outside the industry anyway.

 

[BobD]

Tri-Flow lube softens the dreaded green AGFA lens grease.

 

[AndyH]

Thanks for the responses!

So the consensus is that I should avoid the silicone-based watch oil? Does anyone have brands or sources for watchmaker's oil to recommend?

Any miracle solvent recommendations?

Andy

 

[jim10219]

I use Ronsonol for most solvent needs. It's lighter fluid (naphtha). You have to be careful with some plastics and rubber (as well as any liquid on varnished paper), but it won't harm most plastics, especially not the type found in gears (usually nylon) and such. It can effect some plastic camera bodies though, and anything made of natural rubber.

For lubricants, I use Ny brand oils. I have them in various viscosities for different parts. I also have some thicker oils that I'll use like sewing machine oil, motor oil, silicone spray, graphite powder, etc. But for the thinner clock and watch type of stuff, I like the Ny brand. Moebius also makes good oil, and they have a wide selection of different kinds with different characteristics. What I've found is different parts require different types of oil (or other lubricants), and while sometimes you can get away with using one oil for the whole shutter, sometimes you can't. Avoid the cheaper brands you'll find online that only offer one type. They might be alright for some things, but you never really know what you're getting with them. Plus a 2 oz. bottle lasts me a couple of years, because you use it so sparingly. Keep a bottle of sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil around for general use around the house.

I probably have about 20 different kinds of oil because I do a lot of different repair work, and it seems like every job needs a specific type of oil. But the Ny watch and clock oils are some of my most used (mainly because they are my thinnest oils).

 

[Scott Micciche]

Thanks for the responses!

So the consensus is that I should avoid the silicone-based watch oil? Does anyone have brands or sources for watchmaker's oil to recommend?

Any miracle solvent recommendations?

Andy

I have used the Liberty oil for escapements and it's very reliable with a very thin tip (but I usually place a drop on a needle)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZMGFI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[BrianShaw]

Etsyntha 859 clock oil

 

[AndyH]

Thank you all! Just the kind of advice I was looking for. I'll try some of these recommendations.

I'm usually very happy with naphtha for most of my solvent needs, but isopropyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide are also in my cabinet. Old encrusted grease with a mixture of dirt is one of the toughest to remove from helicals and various nooks and crannies, but hydrogen peroxide seems to loosen it up with little trouble. So far, I haven't destroyed any other materials, but I keep it from leatherette and similar surfaces. I had just wondered whether there was a secret weapon in the area of cleanup.

Again, I appreciate the knowledgeable advice.

Andy

 

[AgX]

Tri-Flow lube softens the dreaded green AGFA lens grease.

So, you try to sip it into the helicoid?

 

[StepheKoontz]

I like automotive brake cleaner for a solvent. It doesn't bother most paints (test!) and dries with no residue, easily flushing all the old lubricants out. It works especially well cleaning off most types of camera covering adhesives. Carburetor type cleaner are way too harsh and will attack many types of paint.

 

[AndyH]

I like automotive brake cleaner for a solvent. It doesn't bother most paints (test!) and dries with no residue, easily flushing all the old lubricants out. It works especially well cleaning off most types of camera covering adhesives. Carburetor type cleaner are way too harsh and will attack many types of paint.

There's one I hadn't thought of. I think I've spent hours removing residue with a scalpel or X-acto knife. I'll give it a go on the next project.

Thanks!
Andy

 

[AgX]

To my understanding brake cleaners contain a variety of solvent mixtures, thus tests would have to be done.

 

[StepheKoontz]

To my understanding brake cleaners contain a variety of solvent mixtures, thus tests would have to be done.

I use "CRC Brakleen" in the red can. And yes even using this, test to make sure it's safe. I recently used it to fix a sticky aperture on a Pentax 35mm f3.5. Removed all the glass and flushed out the aperture mechanism. Works great for cleaning grease and oils off most things. And recently recovered several cameras from a tower/Airesflex, to a OM1, OM2 and a canon rangefinder. It worked great to soften the rock hard adhesives, as well as removing the last remnants + works to remove the foam seal goop. For some jobs I spray it into a cup and apply it with a Qtip.

 

[mug]

look at website for swiss clock oils, like moebius
here is some fine info
http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils
http://www.ofrei.com/page246.html
https://www.losimol.de

 

[CMoore]

Is there any reason not to use Break Free on cameras.?

https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-C...d=1&keywords=break+free&qid=1574301608&sr=8-1

 

[dmr]

Sewing machine oil. Any fabric shop will have it.

 

[cmacd123]

Tri-Flow lube softens the dreaded green AGFA lens grease.

interesting, looking for that brand I see all sorts of products, could you say WHICH ONE is good for AGFA Grease? (I have a couple of frozen Ansco Memotars in my dead camera closset.)

 

[BobD]

I use Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant

 

[Jon Goodman]

I started studying watchmaking in the late 1950s and camera repair was somewhat adjunctive to that work. Watchmakers are notorious for being picky about lubricants. Along the way I was told to use WD-40, but before you start tossing rotten fruit at me, please let me explain. If you spray an inch or so in a small glass bottle (shake can well before you do this...I'll explain that also in a moment) and let that sit undisturbed for a week or two, you will see 2 distinct layers. The bottom layer (rather whitish) contains paraffin, solvent and other junk you don't need for this work. The top layer is a fine lightweight oil...suitable for use in watches, clocks, cameras, typewriters, etc. You can draw it off with a common syringe. It was mentioned earlier that any oil creeps. This is true. If you'll think about that, you'll realize if it didn't, it wouldn't work very well. Silicone oil isn't bad stuff, but you have to know how much (or more importantly how little) to use and because of properties fundamental to silicone, it requires a lot less.

Now about shaking WD-40 before spraying, shake the tar out of the can before you do anything. Have you ever watched somebody using it? Usually they pick the can up and start spraying, lazily shaking back and forth with their wrist a bit as they do. The tube picks up from the very bottom of the can. And so they're just spraying out paraffin mixed with solvents and who knows what and it never works as it should. The oil never makes it out because usually these people either get convinced it is junk and discard the can or they leave a can in their garage until it has lost all propellant and discard it.

Good luck.

 

[BrianShaw]

Oy...

 

[cmacd123]

I have been told to use Nyoil, but a small bottle of that costs more than a 5 liter can of WD-40.