My Nikon F5 malfunctioned, (discussed here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/nikon-f5-changing-iso-on-its-own.208677/) and I had some Rollei Ortho 25 Plus exposed at 50, and some exposed at 100. Unsurprisingly there's not a lot of info about push-processing Ortho 25. Anyone have any advice? I have D-76 and Microphen on hand.
Additionally I have a roll of Ferrania P30 exposed at 25. I'm not as worried about this since P30 likes extra light, but would love to hear thoughts about that as well.
My personal "rule of thumb" for a situation like that is:
1.5x the normal development time for a 1-stop "push".
2x the normal development time for a 2-stop "push".
YMMV.
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If Rollie ortho is a true ortho film then you can develop in a print developer and develop by inspection under a red safelight. If it a short roll you can use the see saw method in a tray. If a long roll then you need to use a reel and container deep enough for the roll, take the reel out peel off a few frames for inspection. I assume that you can use MIcrohen the same manner. BTW, you need a stainless steel reel, once wet you will not be able to reload a plastic reel.
If not an option then as noted by AnselMortorense if the entire roll is at 50 then 1.5 and double the time for 100. IF the roll is shoot at both 50 and 100 then go with the double the time. Rollie posts times for ID 11 1:1 at 8 mints so 12mints for 50 and 16 for 100.
And, if you are inclined to use the develop by inspection method, normally I would looking for shadow detail, but with 1 or 2 stop push there may little if any shadow detail, so look for highlight and midtones.
The good NEWS is that you under exposed the film. I'd start with the suggestions above, but whether you are doing rolls or sheets, since you know what's on the film -- I assume -- I'd take a short/small piece and develop it as above and see what appears. Then you can adjust if necessary -- and save the rest. Developing all of it without this type of simple test is like playing the lottery -- or Russian Roulette.