Advice on mounting very long print

couldabin · Jul 4, 2024

I created a multiple-exposure image of the April total eclipse with my 4x5, scanned it and had a print shop make a print -- 60" x 18". Now I want to mount it but am not at all sure about the best strategy. I would like to mount it on rigid board rather than put it in a frame. It occurred to me that 1/2" insulation board might be a good material -- it's lightweight, easy to cut, and appears to be dimensionally stable. So that's my first question -- is that a good choice? Next, adhesive. I doubt that dry mounting via heat is practical. I have heard a person can use a household iron set to the right temperature but I question my ability to do this without ruining the print. Is spray-on adhesive viable? And process. I initially thought I should cut the board to the exact size, but the chance to get the print crooked seems pretty high. Is it workable to adhere the print to an oversize board, and then cut it to size with the print in place? Without damaging the print? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

_T_ · Jul 4, 2024

Why not have the print shop do it? It’s not easy to mount large prints at home without the right tools and with so little experience you have to ask online about how to go about it.

And if the print shop can’t do it it would probably be easier and cost less to have it done at a different print shop or frame shop. And if there’s no print shop or frame shop nearby that can do it it might still be worth it to have it done at a shop further away and shipped back to you depending on how much the prints cost and how many of them it would take you to get an acceptable result

Don_ih · Jul 4, 2024

You can't use drymount on an rc print. So, what kind of print did you get? If it's an inkjet, you really can't iron it. Plus mounting 5 feet by 18 inches using an iron would be horrible. And the "insulation board" - is that foamcore? If so, you can't use an iron on that, either.

Spray adhesive can work but I haven't had much luck with it. You need to use a contact cement, essentially. and you'd need to be extra careful with such a long and large print.

koraks · Jul 4, 2024

There's foamcore with an adhesive layer on it specifically for this. I've used it for small RC (RA4) prints. Worked very well and it was easier than I imagined. There are YouTube videos on how to do it. Cut the board a bit big, then trim after adhering the print to it. This makes the alignment a little less critical.

Paul Howell · Jul 4, 2024

As noted RC or inkjet paper cannot be dry mounted, a frame shop will use foam core and spray adhesive, the problem finding foam core 60 inches wide. Not sure how to link separate boards together for a 60 inch wide.

Don_ih · Jul 4, 2024

I think a better bet would be 1/4" mdf. You can definitely get that big enough. You would need to paint it first (front and back). And you may also need to stick a blank piece of paper on the reverse, the same way you do the front. That may be necessary if you use foam, also. It prevents the piece from curving due to changes in temperature and humidity.

I find most foamcore is a bit wavy when you examine it.

Pieter12 · Jul 4, 2024

Don_ih said:
I think a better bet would be 1/4" mdf. You can definitely get that big enough. You would need to paint it first (front and back). And you may also need to stick a blank piece of paper on the reverse, the same way you do the front. That may be necessary if you use foam, also. It prevents the piece from curving due to changes in temperature and humidity.

I find most foamcore is a bit wavy when you examine it.

And easily damaged. I would go back to the printer and see if they have any way to achieve what you want.

Otherwise, how about aluminum sheet? I would just place such a mounted print on a picture rail, hanging could be difficult. Of course, bowing could be a problem with a print of those dimensions, exaggerating reflections from the glossy surface. As far as adhesives go, you might want to use something like 3M/Scotch Photo Mount https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/p/d/cbgnhw011124/ but try it on a smaller sample first to see if it gives you enough working time before it sets or if it even will work properly with the materials involved. It seems like a job for at least 2 people, maybe a third. Whatever you end up doing, using a larger board and cutting it down afterward may make the mounting process easier, but to cut a clean line that is 5 feet long without some special equipment could be difficult.

brian steinberger · Jul 4, 2024

Take it to a frame shop that will mount the print onto a product called mountcor. It adheres at a low temperature of 130 degrees F. It comes in sheets 40x60” but will need a press which any good frame shop would have.

Paul Howell · Jul 4, 2024

Will Rc take heat up to 130?

brian steinberger · Jul 4, 2024

Paul Howell said:
Will Rc take heat up to 130?

I have never had an issue with mounting RC on mountcor. We used to mount it on Bainbridge speed mount which bonds at 180 or 190. Never had a problem either. But 130 is better for other digital prints as well such as inkjet do all we use now is mountcor. It comes with its own release paper as well.

xkaes · Jul 4, 2024

Don_ih said:
You can't use drymount on an rc print.

News to me. I've been doing it with B&W & COLOR RC prints on my Seal 500T for decades -- AND super LONG prints to boot.

I guess I've just been hallucinating all these years!

Seal has info on how to mount long prints, but it depends on the press you are using -- to avoid creases. You're going to need a big press, or there are plenty of alternatives to presses, just as adhesive sprays, glues, sticky sheets, etc. It should not be a problem at all, but it might be bigger than a "one-man" job.

MattKing · Jul 5, 2024

RC specific drymount materials exist, and they are designed to work at lower temperatures than the materials that work with FB.
Saying that, even if I had the equipment and the materials, I wouldn't even think about risking a 60"x18" print with my level of experience - that is a job for someone else!

Don_ih · Jul 5, 2024

xkaes said:
News to me. I've been doing it with B&W & COLOR RC prints on my Seal 500T for decades

Is your Seal 500T a clothes iron?

xkaes · Jul 5, 2024

Don_ih said:
Is your Seal 500T a clothes iron?

Kinda, sorta. Both ends are open so you can slide LONG prints through it and PRESS in sections. You just need a room big enough for the panorama.

And speaking of clothes irons, these can also be used if you can set the temperature correctly (a simple test on a scrap piece will do it) and take your time.

couldabin · Jul 5, 2024

Thanks for all this input. The image was created by ink jet on semi-gloss photo paper. I called the print shop back and discovered they could have printed it directly onto 3/16 foam core for the same price. It never occurred to me to ask. They did say that all that black (see attached) may not reproduce as well on the foam core option as it did on the photo paper. On the other hand, they did say that if I wasn't satisfied with the print quality, there would be no charge. They were very helpful, and will lend me rollers to assist in affixing the print if I decide to glue the print onto the insulation board (they thought that would be a good mounting base). So I'm going to shop for some 3M adhesive, stick the print onto the board, then trim it. If that is a disaster, I will take them up on printing it directly onto foam core and see if Plan B works. Thanks for your willingness to share your experience.

xkaes · Jul 5, 2024

Two things. I find it amazing that they are willing to mount it for FREE. I also don't understand how mounting it on foam core would alter the print in any way. How would white museum board be any different?

OK, make that three things -- one problem you can run into mounting large prints is the foam core (or whatever) bending -- when the adhesive dries or cools.

koraks · Jul 5, 2024

xkaes said:
Two things

I think you may have misunderstood both:

couldabin said:
printed it directly onto 3/16 foam core [...] may not reproduce as well on the foam core option as it did on the photo paper.

couldabin said:
will lend me rollers to assist in affixing the print if I decide to glue the print onto the insulation board

xkaes said:
one problem you can run into mounting large prints is the foam core (or whatever) bending -- when the adhesive dries or cools.

Yes, certainly. And getting a crease-free bond in the first place will be challenging across the length of this print. I'd practice on a couple of smaller prints, first.

glbeas · Jul 5, 2024

I had a 22”x72” print made on canvas and built a reinforced frame and stretched it onto it. Then built a decorative frame around it. Looked great.

eli griggs · Jul 6, 2024

Look into traditional, acid free, colour fast, 100% museum board for mounting the photograph to, in position to match the window of a frame able over may.

Lineco, Linen pre-gummed tape, distilled water and a good straight edge.

Draw lightly a straight line a the what will be the top edge of the photograph, centered by the margins on the sides.

Cutoff about of four inch strips and fold equally in half across the width, with the adhesive side facing front and back.

With no distractions or interruptions, use a small sponge brush in a small saucer, with a LITTLE distilled water, and, going from one end of the drawn line, damp wet the side that'll hold to the back board, not the front facing dry taped, laying the hinge of each precisely on the line, in an evenly spaced row, but not overly wet.

Allow the tapes to dry, making sure the hinges are tight to the board and line.

Once the first part of tapping is thoroughly dry, place the photograph in a quick ready position and starting with the middle tape on the board, quickly damp the dry side of the tape and position the photograph in place on the line, applying enough force to get a good adhesion, in line with photograph and drawn reference line.

It might be a good idea to invest a large index card between the two sides of tape, with the second side allowing any runoff of water from making the just taped will have run off to the index card where a sheet of paper towel can pat it up and the already dried side against the board, won't get wet and loose its grip or placement.

Go down the top line, one tape at a time, allowing each to dry to the touch, before going back to the middle side that next needs gluing down.

You should go slow enough that you keep the two top lines, inline with each other and set the matted photograph somewhere safe, without ANY BENDING of the Board.

You should now have a backed, photograph that you can cut a window for, in a second piece of 100% Rag museum board.

Hinge securely, strongly, the two boards at the top of each as you just did with the photograph, for a proper job.

otto.f · Jul 6, 2024

I wouldn’t jeopardize this special print and would pay for professional mounting, better invest a bit more than losing your money on a failed mounting

GregY · Jul 6, 2024

otto.f said:
I wouldn’t jeopardize this special print and would pay for professional mounting, better invest a bit more than losing your money on a failed mounting

My thoughts as well. I have lots of experience as well as equipment for dry mounting & on a project like this i'd leave it to those specialty is large prints.

GregY · Jul 6, 2024

eli griggs said:
Look into traditional, acid free, colour fast, 100% museum board for mounting the photograph to, in position to match the window of a frame able over may.

Lineco, Linen pre-gummed tape, distilled water and a good straight edge.

Draw lightly a straight line a the what will be the top edge of the photograph, centered by the margins on the sides.

Cutoff about of four inch strips and fold equally in half across the width, with the adhesive side facing front and back.

With no distractions or interruptions, use a small sponge brush in a small saucer, with a LITTLE distilled water, and, going from one end of the drawn line, damp wet the side that'll hold to the back board, not the front facing dry taped, laying the hinge of each precisely on the line, in an evenly spaced row, but not overly wet.

Allow the tapes to dry, making sure the hinges are tight to the board and line.

Once the first part of tapping is thoroughly dry, place the photograph in a quick ready position and starting with the middle tape on the board, quickly damp the dry side of the tape and position the photograph in place on the line, applying enough force to get a good adhesion, in line with photograph and drawn reference line.

It might be a good idea to invest a large index card between the two sides of tape, with the second side allowing any runoff of water from making the just taped will have run off to the index card where a sheet of paper towel can pat it up and the already dried side against the board, won't get wet and loose its grip or placement.

Go down the top line, one tape at a time, allowing each to dry to the touch, before going back to the middle side that next needs gluing down.

You should go slow enough that you keep the two top lines, inline with each other and set the matted photograph somewhere safe, without ANY BENDING of the Board.

You should now have a backed, photograph that you can cut a window for, in a second piece of 100% Rag museum board.

Hinge securely, strongly, the two boards at the top of each as you just did with the photograph, for a proper job.

60" photo.... can you even find oversized acid free mat board?

xkaes · Jul 6, 2024

GregY said:
60" photo.... can you even find oversized acid free mat board?

Not that I know of, but I've done much longer prints -- for next to nothing. None of this "museum" crap needed. Reminds me of my old school days.

brian steinberger · Jul 6, 2024

GregY said:
60" photo.... can you even find oversized acid free mat board?

Of course, 40x60” is a common size as well as 48x96” in a few colors (whites, tans, blacks). You’d probably have to go to a frame shop and ask for these sizes.

This job however is simple for a shop with a large press and the appropriate mounting material (mountcor).

xkaes · Jul 6, 2024

The OP was talking about an 18" wide print -- big difference from a 40" print. Much easier to handle.

Advice on mounting very long print

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