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Advice needed: Building a DIY camera for in-camera Anthotypes and Cyanotypes (A6)

Chreger

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Hi everyone


For my final school project I am building a large format camera from scratch. I want to keep the process as organic and low tech as possible.


The Concept:


I plan to do in-camera exposures using Anthotypes (plant based) and Cyanotypes. I am aware of the extremely long exposure times but I want to embrace that slowness as part of the art. The target image size is roughly A6. I intend to use a simple magnifying glass as a lens to achieve a soft vintage aesthetic. A leather bellows is a central part of my design for both its iconic look and functionality.


My Challenge:


I have a strong vision but very little experience in camera mechanics. I am at the very beginning of the technical design regarding focusing light proofing and the tripod mount.


Do you have any tips for a beginner? What are the biggest donts when building a bellows for the first time? How would you handle focusing with a simple magnifying lens on A6 paper?


Any advice on materials or construction would be greatly appreciated.


Best regards
 
Welcome to Photrio @Chreger!

You say you're aware of the slow exposures, but keep in mind that with anthotypes, you're looking at exposures that can easily reach several days or weeks in a contact printing frame. Through a lens, this would take much longer, still - which means the exposures may not actually finish at all. Cyanotype is a little more feasible.

For your first attempt I'd suggest to construct a simple cardboard box, or actually two boxes that slide into each other, so you can focus it (to an extent) without having to construct a bellows. This can serve as a proof of concept and give useful input for the real camera you could build next.

Chreger said:
How would you handle focusing with a simple magnifying lens on A6 paper?
Click to expand...
Simply put: not. You need a ground glass of some sort, but you can substitute a piece of transparent plastic that you roughen up with e.g. sandpaper.
 
I agree with Korak's points made, and the sliding box idea is one that I've done in the past. The box along with a home-made pinhole at the front would give you a simple camera. Then using some darkroom photo paper, you can produce a working negative to invert either in PS or a darkroom with another sheet of paper.

It's good that you are pushing yourself with the two processes that you mention, but as Korak said, VERY LONG exposures would be needed and probably aren't actually practical. I'd do the above pinhole experiment and THEN try a cyanotype exposure if you still want to. It's an interesting idea that I've thought about doing as well, so it would be great to hear and see your result if you or someone else beats me to it!

Terry S
UK
 
@tezzasmall's suggestion of trying paper negatives is a great idea, really! Coincidentally, 10x15cm is a popular paper format (e.g. Fomaspeed) which is close to A6, so it would be a nice size to aim for.

Btw, anthotypes came up recently: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/how-to-protect-for-life-plant-based-alternative-prints.219542
@fgorga and @cliveh responded based on their hands-on experience with the medium. @cliveh also echoed what I said about exposures - i.e. days, for a regular contact-printed anthotype. I've done anthotypes that took up to several weeks to exposure, but as I recall this was not in summer.
 

You can also try Physautypes (based on plant resigns), I did a few experiments and it works with quite fast exposure times (30min-1h)
 

The fastest material I have found for anthotypes is paprika extracted into iso-propanol (rubbing alcohol). Exposures are still a couple of hours under direct summer sun in a typical contact printing frame. (If my memory serves, I can't find my notes on this process... arrgh!)

Turmeric is less sensitive than paprika... exposures take most of a day.

Paprika anthotypes are unstable even if stored dark, so they must be scanned if you want them to last.

Turmeric anthotypes, 'fixed' with a alkali (sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or borax; all of which give slightly different results) are very stable.

For most other plant extracts use for anthotypes (see, for example, https://www.alternativephotography.com/anthotypes-anthotype-process/) photograms are, as mentioned above, exposed for days, weeks or even months!

That said, here is a report on one person's experience making an in camera anthotype... https://www.alternativephotography.com/in-camera-anthotypes/

Additionally, there is one other variation of anthotype that is reported to need only 15-20 minutes of exposure to make a photogram, see: https://www.alternativephotography.com/negative-anthotypes-fast-exposure-aloe/.

I have not had direct experience with either of the last two of these ideas so I can't vouch for the reliability of these reports.
 
Chromium VI said:
You can also try Physautypes (based on plant resigns), I did a few experiments and it works with quite fast exposure times (30min-1h)
Click to expand...

Any references/links to "Physautypes"? (Google does not give any relevant information.)

Also, I imagine that you meant "plant resins" and not "plant resigns", is this correct?

Thanks.
 
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