ADOX CMS 20 in ID-11 / D-76

[Greg_Zauswoz]

Hi everyone,

I have a few rolls of 35mm ADOX CMS 20. I don't have the developer that goes with it though. I was wondering whether anyone has experience with developing this stuff in Ilford ID-11 or Kodak D-76? Can anyone help me out with developing times?

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Alan Johnson]

CMS 20 is the most contrasty of the microfilm or similar type emulsions marketed for pictorial photography.It was the only one I could not tame with dilute Rodinal and I would expect only soot and whitewash from ID-11 or D-76.
For an inexpensive proprietary developer I would suggest Photoformulary TD-3 Techpan developer for testing if you do not wish to use Adotech.I don't think anyone has reported any results with this combination though.

 

[Greg_Zauswoz]

Hi Alan,

thanks for your reply. That at least gives me some idea what not to do. The thing is not that I don't wan't to use Adotech. It is just near impossibile to get it anywhere down here, let alone for an acceptable price. I am afraid that the same would probably be true for Photoformulary TD-3 Techpan developer. Even to get Rodinal isn't easy.

 

[desertrat]

If all you can get is D-76 / ID-11, you might try it much more diluted than normal. I've had some success with highly dilute developers with ortho graphic arts films, and these are even slower and contrastier than document copying films. Try your developer at 1:5 or even higher dilution. You'll need lots of solution when it's diluted this much. If your tank holds a liter, that's great. If not, use all you can.

This film should also develop fairly quickly. Since you're working in uncharted territory, a standard suggestion is to pick a scene similar in lighting and contrast to what you plan to shoot, and shoot a whole roll of just that one scene, all at the same exposure. In the darkroom, cut short sections of film, about 3 or 4 frames each, and develop them one at a time. Try 5 minutes in the developer for the first section. After the first section is processed, that should suggest a new time to try for the next section. After about 3 or 4 tries at this, you should arrive at a good development time for this combination.

If the images are still too contrasty, you can try diluting the developer even more and try again with another roll of film.

 

[Rodeda]

I bought a roll of Kodak Recordak Microfilm 5786 and i develop it in D-76 stock 9 min and i've had great results. The film expired in 1977,you can see the photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/88914106@N04/sets/72157644184167479/

 

[Regular Rod]

Hi everyone,

I have a few rolls of 35mm ADOX CMS 20. I don't have the developer that goes with it though. I was wondering whether anyone has experience with developing this stuff in Ilford ID-11 or Kodak D-76? Can anyone help me out with developing times?

Thanks,
Greg

In your place I would try Caffenol and rate the film much, much slower than 20 ISO, the place where you will be challenged is in the shadows. I've not used the 35mm but have used 4x5. Rated it at 3 ISO and used the Zone system to ascertain exposure for Zone III. I used OBSIDIAN AQUA but if you can't get chemicals at a fair price in your location then you really should consider Caffenol. Because you are using roll film Semi Stand development will give you a chance of getting decent tonality in the higher key areas and your downgrading of the claimed ISO will take care of the shadows. Get it right and you will be very pleased with the film if you like no visible grain... Worth fiddling about with.

RR

 

[Ashfaque]

Hi Greg,

In case you don't know, SPUR makes that chemical for Adox. SPUR sells their version as SPUR Modular UR New, that comes in various portions for various high resolution films of similar nature. See their English section - more specifically, see the UR datasheet and the addendum.

There is a possibility that it would be cheaper to get SPUR's own packaged version due to smaller delivery cost. IIRC, I got that impression after Heribert responded to someone. I'm not sure, but worth trying. So email Heribert (schain@spur-photo.com). He responds to my novice questions quite promptly and helps in other things.

@ RR: Dear Rod, I really enjoy your images. Guess what I'm your neighbour too (Notts)! I'm going to add you on my flickr list.

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[pentaxuser]

Greg last posted here on APUG in 2010, Ashfaque so it may be that your good advice has fallen on stony ground.

pentaxuser

 

[Athiril]

Was gonna say Vanbar carries Adotech II (when it's in stock).

 

[Regular Rod]

Hi Greg,

In case you don't know, SPUR makes that chemical for Adox. SPUR sells their version as SPUR Modular UR New, that comes in various portions for various high resolution films of similar nature. See their English section - more specifically, see the UR datasheet and the addendum.

There is a possibility that it would be cheaper to get SPUR's own packaged version due to smaller delivery cost. IIRC, I got that impression after Heribert responded to someone. I'm not sure, but worth trying. So email Heribert (schain@spur-photo.com). He responds to my novice questions quite promptly and helps in other things.

@ RR: Dear Rod, I really enjoy your images. Guess what I'm your neighbour too (Notts)! I'm going to add you on my flickr list.

Bests,

Ashfaque

You honour me! Thank you.

RR

 

[Regular Rod]

Greg last posted here on APUG in 2010, Ashfaque so it may be that your good advice has fallen on stony ground.

pentaxuser

Doh!


Sometimes the urge to try and help blinds us to the obvious...


RR

 

[Pioneer]

However, others of us are also using Adox CMS 20 so these hints are very useful to us as well.

Thank you for the Caffenol suggestion. I am going to give it a try.

I have roll in my F6 and a few of John's beans left so I'll mix up a batch and see what happens.

 

[Regular Rod]

However, others of us are also using Adox CMS 20 so these hints are very useful to us as well.

Thank you for the Caffenol suggestion. I am going to give it a try.

I have roll in my F6 and a few of John's beans left so I'll mix up a batch and see what happens.

Ah!

RR