Adox CHS 25 (120), Diafine or Rodinal?

[Lyn Arnold]

I plan to use Adox 25 for still life images (vegetables, actually!) and want them to have the "look" of older emulsions. I will be printing and toning them as straight silver prints, but also want to use the negs for bromoil prints using VC paper so that I can 'flatten' the contrast somewhat with both filtration and print developer.

The Massive Development Chart lists both Rodinal and Diafine as suitable. Any experience with this film and either of the developers?

 

[eye_of_wally]

I have used it in both, but I liked it in Diafine the best. Rate the film at 12iso that will give you better shadows and the highlights will not block with Diafine. The film also works good with 1:200 semistand Rodinal

 

[Alexander Ghaffari]

Oh my, one of my favorite film combinations. Adox/Efke 25 (I shoot 120, as well) in Rodinal 1+100 for 10 minutes at 20 deg. C with normal agitation (5 inversions for 5 seconds every 30 seconds of development in a small inversion tank). It is what I do, but I use an acid stop for 30 seconds (yes, I know that you are not supposed to, but it does work extremely well), fix in a hardening fixer for 10 minutes, wash for some time, and rinse with distilled water/Photo Flo.

All you need to do in addition to the above is find (or make) some nice diffused lighting. It is divine!

 

[Soeren]

Have used it in Rodinal approx as above and liked the results very much. I have Diafine so Hmm maybe I should try that too
Kind regards

 

[Zvonimir Ervacic]

I plan to use Adox 25 for still life images (vegetables, actually!) and want them to have the "look" of older emulsions. I will be printing and toning them as straight silver prints, but also want to use the negs for bromoil prints using VC paper so that I can 'flatten' the contrast somewhat with both filtration and print developer.

I recently tried Efke25 EI16 in Rodinal 1+100 (4ml of Rodinal), stand development and get uneven developed sky, same result with 2 rolls. Semi stand might work OK but I didn't try it yet.

For an old looking prints also consider Efke100. Whenever I use it I get results like it was exposed sometime in the middle of last century. Efke25 and 50 do have some unique look but I will not call it old look.

Best regards,
Zvonimir.

 

[P C Headland]

I like it in Rodinal 1+100 for 17 minutes when shot at box speed. 5 gentle inversions at the start of each minute for the first three minutes, then one inversion every three minutes.

I've also tried it in PC-TEA 1+50 for sheet film - around 9 minutes with continuous agitation in a Paterson Orbital. Once again, shot at box speed.

 

[jim appleyard]

I have used it in both, but I liked it in Diafine the best. Rate the film at 12iso that will give you better shadows and the highlights will not block with Diafine..

I have not tried Efke/Adox 25 in Diafine, so I am guessing here, but Diafine is known for giving a one-stop push. I would think that an EI of 50 +-, rather than 12, would work better and Diafine is also known for keeping highlights in check with the push.

Does your EI of 12 work well for you?

 

[Lyn Arnold]

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I'll do a test roll, although I can't squander too much. I purchased the film (from Freestyle) when the Oz dollar was closer to the US currency. With the doleful position it is now in added to shipping charges, I can't justify further purchases.

Will be starting the project around March, and will try the Diafine first. I want the vegies to take on a rich and luscious look.

Lyn

 

[Jeff Searust]

I have used it in both, but I liked it in Diafine the best. Rate the film at 12iso that will give you better shadows and the highlights will not block with Diafine.

Since diafine is going to gain a stop. wouldn't it be more reasonable to rate the film at 50?

 

[eye_of_wally]

Since diafine is going to gain a stop. wouldn't it be more reasonable to rate the film at 50?

I have not tried Efke/Adox 25 in Diafine, so I am guessing here, but Diafine is known for giving a one-stop push. I would think that an EI of 50 +-, rather than 12, would work better and Diafine is also known for keeping highlights in check with the push.

Does your EI of 12 work well for you?

Diafine does not really push a lot of the Eastern European films like Efke/Adox, Foma, or Forte very much if at all. The Efke/Adox films also seem to be slower than their box speeds suggest, and they handle overexposure quite well (within reason) but have very poor tolerance for underexposure.

I have shot dozens rolls of Efke/Adox 25, 50, 100, and hundreds of rolls of the Efke IR820 (it is my favorite film) and find that shot at 1/2 of the box speed (or iso 1 with the IR and a Hoya R72) and developed with Diafine gives great results. You don't have to worry about the highlights blowing out and you get nice shadow detail

 

[jim appleyard]

Cool, I'll try it!

 

[Rolleijoe]

I've used it in Rodinal 1:50, 1:100 (semi-stand), and HC-110 1:50. Of them all, my best results were from Rodinal 1:50. The 1:100 (I wouldn't even TRY 1:200) did give a slightly more vintage look, but again, only very slightly, and the 1-hour development time wasn't worth the trouble.

I've not used Diafine, but plan to sometime this year.

Good luck with your shoot.

 

[thebdt]

The Efke/Adox films also seem to be slower than their box speeds suggest, and they handle overexposure quite well (within reason) but have very poor tolerance for underexposure.

I had gotten the opposite impression from Freestyle's site. According to them:

Do NOT over-expose Efke Emulsions! This film is not recommended for pull processing.

They also offer the option of rating the films as twice the speed listed on the box...