Adapted Kodak Autographic 3A

[canibedaniel]

Hello,

Link to picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/16010224@N06/7691194502/in/photostream

I inherited this Kodak Autographic 3A from my Grandad. He has clearly adapted it ... for 120 film...? I wanted to have a go at putting it to work. I am a total beginner, and have a few questions. I hope you can help!
Do you think this has been adapted for 120 film?
If so, could you offer tips on loading the film, and, importantly, on how to know how much to wind the film on after each shot?

Will a commercial developers develop this film?
Anything else I should know?!
Thank you very much

Best,
Daniel

 

[domaz]

I like it, nice and simple adaptation to 120 film. You didn't show the back of the camera so we can't answer the question about how to wind the film. Maybe your grandpa wound it by counting winds or maybe he cut out a new red window so he could see the frame numbers. Also it looks like he probably didn't use a take-up spool like a "real" 120 camera does. So you would have to rewind the film back onto the supply spool in a darkroom or changing bag.

 

[removed account4]

hi danie

nice camera ! not sure if it has been adapted for 120
you might have to re-spool a roll to find out
as for how many winds to the next frame, you might have to experiment
a little to figure that out too ...

i have a graflex autograpic 3a ... and wind PAPER on the spools instead of film.
lots of fun to shoot paper negatives that are 3.5x5.75 easy to process .. usually 1sec
(sometimes less time ) in bright sun is a good exposure.
have fun with your new camera !
john

 

[canibedaniel]

Thank you! I will just have to buy some 120 film and experiment.

 

[Kobin]

You appear to have a 6x6 mask, and I can't tell you how to cipher the framing with that, but if you want to use the full frame to 5 3/4 inches, it's fairly simple to use the existing red window, but I would replace the old red lens with new rubylith before I loaded any film. The numbering sequence for 120 film, using the entire length of the camera's frame, is as follows: Wind the film until you see the number "3" for the first frame. Go past the number "6" to the first dot for the second frame, past number "9" to the second dot for the third frame, past the number "12" to the third dot for the fourth frame, and then to the number 16 for the final frame. Of course, you should also check the bellows for light leaks, and you'll want to put some black tape over the red window except when you're winding up a frame. Keep it out of bright light. I also had to make my own pressure plate to block some light leaks from the back. Good luck, and have fun.

Kobin

 

[dr5chrome]

..ive been converting 3As for about 4yrs now - to use 120 [6x14 image]. https://www.facebook.com/3AKODAK
In the beginning I thought I would sell them, but it's too time consuming to convert them.
It's just a hobby - and an occasional gift. ..have about 20 of them.

dw

 

[Edward Romero]

I have a Kodak Photographic 1A which uses 116 film long gone. Bought some adapters cheap to use 120 film. On the back window the numbers that showed were for a 645 16 exposure. Made a 645 mask for it but images were a little overlapping. Going to make a 6x9 mask for it. You have to load up some 120 backing from and then count the number of turns since you won’t see no numbers on it. I think mine was 91/2 turns from the arrow then 2 turns for each exposure. But haven’t tried it yet. If that don’t work just going to allow more room and cut it to 6 or 7 exposures. Also on mine the appeture is marked 1-4. Looks like F11-F32. I used No.2 and exposed for F16. It was right on.