AlanC
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Many thanks Sandy. Since last posting I have found some plastic tubing that should work instead of the tin.
I will start with Adox (efke) 100. I know how to develop this with "normal" agitation in Pyrocat HD, so will be able to make prints from normally developed negatives and compare them with same subject prints made from negatives developed as you suggest.
Alan
The original Kodak work by Jones & Higgins, Wolfe & Eisen relating the slope of the edge density to perceived sharpness is on p127-132 here (takes a while to download).
They probably used D-76 and missed ocurrence of edge effects.
http://image.eastmanhouse.org/taxonomy/term/387
Assuming that you have some way of allowing the film
to stay still between agitation cycles ... Sandy
Easy, use a tray and separators. Liken a sheet of film
to a sheet of light weight RC paper. The method I suggest
is the same as the method I use to wash paper, long soaks.
The separators are of hydrophobic material, light weight
polyester batting.
In the case of washing paper some water is placed in a tray
with a separator at bottom followed by a print a separator,
repeating until the tray is full or no more prints.
For agitation the wash water, after some time, is poured
into a second tray and stirred. The separators and
and prints are then transferred from the first
tray to the second. For prints fresh water
is used the beginning of each cycle.
Substitute developer and film for water and print, include
as many transfers as is thought needed and you've the
tray way to stand development for film.
I've developed sheet film via tank and hanger, tray,
and the, IIRC, Yankee sheet film tank. I've never
had occasion to stand develop film. I think
though the method I've suggested may
work very well. Dan
Easy, use a tray and separators. Liken a sheet of film
to a sheet of light weight RC paper. The method I suggest
is the same as the method I use to wash paper, long soaks.
The separators are of hydrophobic material, light weight
polyester batting.
Dan
Cradles or sloshers, which separte the film and have holes in the bottom to allow free flow of processing chemicals, work fine for developing film with minimal agitation methods. Photographer's Formulary sells one that someone in my class used last time I taught a workshop out there.
I personally prefer the tube method described earlier because with it most of the work can be done in the light. I am one of those persons who hates standing around in total darkness sloshing developer around.
Sandy King
When you are stand developing film other than flat in a tray; is there not a danger of bromide drag?
Cradles or sloshers, which separte the film and have holes
in the bottom to allow free flow of processing chemicals, work
fine for developing film with minimal agitation methods.
I personally prefer the tube method described earlier because
with it most of the work can be done in the light. I am one of
those persons who hates standing around in total darkness
sloshing developer around. Sandy King
"Cradles, sloshers, .... free flow of ... chemicals ... minimal
agitation ... " And I suppose Cradles and sloshers are used
with the lights on while providing true stand development?
A continuous totally dark darkroom is NOT needed using the
method I've suggested. Only the tray with film processing
need be covered. And there is NO "standing around ...
sloshing developer. The subject at this time is
STAND developing.
So, any one with $1.00 and two trays of proper size can
give the tray with separators method a try. For long
stands Horizontal may be better. Dan
However, I do believe the single biggest contributor to increasing acutance is micro contrast and in my experience micro contrast is controlled most significantly by developer exhaustion (dilution) and frequency of agitation.
That's putting the chicken before the egg
First the choice of developer is critical, as some will give a high degree of acutance at normal agitation, it's fair to say they virtually all rely on high dilution.
Secondly the degree of dilution and type of agitation can also be used to increase the acutance further, (which is your point).
But it's like comparing apples to oranges, Pyrocat HD gives good acutance at normal dilution (1+1+100) and typical normal agitation, but in comparison some of the high acutance developers give substantially greater acutance, quite noticeably so with normal agitation.
So there's not one cap tofit all. Remember that a high acutance developer which is too extreme for say 35mm may in fact be ideal for Large Format without the need for stand or semi-stand development. As they say there are many ways to skin a cat.
I'm not disagreeing with you Steve because what you do works as expected, but pointing out there's also a bigger overall picture.
Ian
Going all the way back to what got me involved in this thread in the first place, the acutance component of the process is secondary to me.
For whatever reason very few choose to discuss those attributes of the process. Very likely the word "acutance" is what got me involved in the thread in the first place, hoping to launch a discussion in the direction of the possibilities beyond increased apparent sharpness.
Cheers
Steve,
The micro-contrast you get in your prints is a direct result of increased acutance. They are the same thing. Acutance/micro-contrast gives enhanced separation of local tonal values, and this increases apparent sharpness. I believe you are saying that the greater separation of close tonal values is more important to you than the apparent sharpness but I don't see how one separates the two since they are linked as your fingers to your hand.
Sandy King
My findings on the formation of edge effects and a possible
reason for them:
www.apug.org/forums/forum37/45289-do-some-films-have-even-ness-additive.html
SandY: Very impressive results. Makes one wonder if the 35mm format, using careful developing techniques, might enable one to make 8x10 enlargements that would be analogous to the results with 120 film at the putative 30x40 print size, i.e., could an enlargement of a 35mm frame offer the possibility of rivaling the results of an 8x10 enlargement of a 4x5 frame. Comments?
Ed
By the way Sandy, is there a link to the two bath Pyrocat developing method? Have you ever compared "Pyrocat two bath" to one of the other developer/ film combinations that are said to yield negatives with a lower grain, e.g., The 20 ASA Adox film with the developer recommended for such film? One realizes of course that 20 ASA film does limit depth of field, etc., etc.
Ed
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