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- Nov 16, 2004
- Messages
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Alan Johnson said:One thing not clear. DF wrote above of the native acutance of T-Grain films being so much higher than old films it defies comparison. OTOH Leica expert Erwin Puts wrote on T-grain compared to Panatomic X "...tabular shaped crystals....acutance was lost..."
www.imx.nl/photosite/technical/bwstateofart.html
Is there an explanation for this apparent difference?
df cardwell said:I believe this is what Alan is referring to:
"Where I get confused is comparing films evolved from the '50 and '60s to T-grain films. The native acutance of T-Grain films is so much higher than old films that it defies comparison."
Specifically, I intended to refer to Kodak's Plus X and Tri X, Ilford's FP4+, HP5+, and Pan F. It would have been better, I suppose, had I just said it.
Thanks.
sanking said:The T-grain films definitely have higher resolution when
compared to traditional films of the same ASA. This can
be easily measured with simple resolution targets in
contact printing where you eliminate the camera
system as a source of error. Sandy
dancqu said:I take that to mean a resolution transparency in
contact with the subject film. No optics are involved.
Is that the way a film's unhindered maximum resolution
is measured? I suspect a more sophisticated method is
used although I've not a clue as to what it might be.
Be that as it may, without the optics it is not a
real world test and likely by a long shot. Users of the
"traditional" films I'm quite sure will back that up. The
print is the final measure of a film's capability and
that is where it will show.
I've not yet but will be giving the material at
www.normankoren.com a study. Don't be put off
by the electronics. He has quite a bit indicated
dealing with optics and film. Dan
df cardwell said:Where I get confused is comparing films evolved from the '50 and '60s to T-grain films. The native acutance of T-Grain films is so much higher than old films that it defies comparison. Yet new films tend to be resistant to the 'FX' we tend to associate we good acutance: edge, adjacency, etc., etc., etc.
.
Photo Engineer said:Sandy;
Among onther things:
An acutance film is one with reduced internal reflections. This is accomplished by adding an acutance dye to the film. This dye decreases speed though, so you need a fast emulsion with fine enough grain to allow the use of added dyes to improve sharpness without a severe penalty in grain.
...
PE
Rodinal is not a very good acutance developer. Something like the Beutler formula would be a better choice. This has to do with the rather unique sensitivity of Metol to bromide.Bruce (Camclicker) said:Thanks Peter, that is the nex step: RODINAL. I've been draging my feet using Rodinal until there is a supply in Adoramma/B&H. The little bit I have on hand I've been guarding.
avandesande said:It seems to be much harder to 'starve' t-grain films through semi stand development.
I am going to try stand development with acros.
Gerald Koch said:Rodinal is not a very good acutance developer.
Something like the Beutler formula would be a
better choice. This has to do with the rather
unique sensitivity of Metol to bromide.
dancqu said:"
Through out this thread I've noticed a lack of attention
to the needed high activity of developers used for
high acutance results. Dan
sanking said:What do you mean by the term high activity?
Are you refering to the commonly held view that
high acutance developers need to work at
relatively high pH levels? Sandy
I have never tried Acros with either stand or semi-stand development. On the other hand, I have gotten really nice edge effects with TMAX-100 in roll film format with semi-stand development using at least two different high acutance developers.
Sandy
Well, I have quickly become lost. I appreciate the comments regarding personal preferences when it comes to the appeal of potentially exaggerated edge effects. I'm still undecided about whether edge effects or even unsharp masking would appeal to me in terms of my own work. As of yet, I haven't experienced these effects enough to make a decision. I'm not fundamentally opposed to dramatic effects in pictures. They are just another tool that I would like to master someday. But, I agree that enhanced edges do not a good picture make.
In any case, from what I gather from this and the other thread that Alan mentioned, if edge effects are what I'm after, I'm getting the impression that I should be playing with the likes of Beutler, FX-1, FX-2, or Rodinal.
As for the sharpness of the print sections I posted, it may be correct that they are not as sharp as they could be. Or it could be that my scanner is crap. The print looks pretty crisp, but I've always heard that print materials are not meant to be enlarged to that extent. In other words, I think 1200 dpi may be beyond the limits of the paper. Nonetheless, I probably would have done better to use my other scanner.
In response to my original question, I getting the feeling that edge effects would tend to be more apparent in an image that has a lot of fine detail. Perhaps I should be looking for the effect in the grass rather than on the siding and door frame in the test picture, although I still don't see much there either.
Also, I question whether PL100 is even a good film to be looking for edge effects. Personally, I think TXP320 appears to be a much sharper film than PL100 with either Xtol or Pyrocat. Of course, that's just based on my experiences and subjective opinion.
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