Acros in Xtol: time for contrast increase for film exposed at ASA 100?

[ChrisBCS]

So I've developed some Acros negs in XTOL and I really like the fine grain structure. They were exposed and developed at speed, no manipulation. I'd really like to get a little more contrast out of the next batch negatives (storm clouds), and I did not use any filtering during exposure. Do I need to develop to a full next stop to get a noticeable difference in contrast? Yes, I know the grain will increase, but I'm not super concerned since XTOL is fine grain anyway, sacrificing some grain for contrast is the goal.

 

[John Wiegerink]

So I've developed some Acros negs in XTOL and I really like the fine grain structure. They were exposed and developed at speed, no manipulation. I'd really like to get a little more contrast out of the next batch negatives (storm clouds), and I did not use any filtering during exposure. Do I need to develop to a full next stop to get a noticeable difference in contrast? Yes, I know the grain will increase, but I'm not super concerned since XTOL is fine grain anyway, sacrificing some grain for contrast is the goal.

Are you using Xtol straight(stock) or diluted? you might just want to increase your development by 20% or so. If you have all the shadow detail you need you could also bump up your film speed rating to ISO (EI) 160 or even 200. You might get by with just doing the first, but maybe both together is what you are after. Only you will know for sure. Also, are you wet-printing?

 

[ChrisBCS]

Sorry, forgot that detail. 1:1 one shot. Not wet printing in the foreseeable future.

 

[John Wiegerink]

That's different then, since I was referring to wet printing. Can't you boost your contrast enough in your scanner software?

 

[ChrisBCS]

That's different then, since I was referring to wet printing. Can't you boost your contrast enough in your scanner software?

Sorry, I am an idiot. I though you meant something else when you said wet printing. Enlarger + silver gelatin paper in darkroom. Fully analog process start to finish.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Sorry, I am an idiot. I though you meant something else when you said wet printing. Enlarger + silver gelatin paper in darkroom. Fully analog process start to finish.

Okay, then we're on the right track. Both my suggestions will work separately or in tandem. I'd try just increasing development first. If that doesn't work you could try slight underexposure with a 10-20% increase in development. I don't use much Acros, but with Xtol Replenished I get near normal box speed and never really had a contrast problem. I use VC paper and a Ilford Ilfospeed Multi-grade 400HL light source. If I've come close to doing what I'm suppose to do in the exposure and development department then the VC head takes care of any contrast problem.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Reading your question I don't think reducing exposure slightly would help much since storm clouds consist mainly of lower mid-tones Zone 4 or maybe 3 and high values. Probably just an increase in development is called for.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Reading your question I don't think reducing exposure slightly would help much since storm clouds consist mainly of lower mid-tones Zone 4 or maybe 3 and high values. Probably just an increase in development is called for.

 

[ChrisBCS]

Thank you! I'll give the 20% figure a go and see how it looks. The way the scene is visualized (menacing) storm clouds are definitely significantly below middle gray in the "undercloud", I selected Zone III, spot metered, and based my overall exposure on that value. In my mind's eye, a lot of strong highlights from the cloud tops and edges, shooting for as high as Zone VIII to almost IX (the key high value in the image, but want to retain texture).

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Increase contrast by increasing development time. 20% was suggested. That's a good starting point. You should print your negatives first on "normal" contrast grade paper before deciding if an increase in film development time is necessary.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

It's a matter of relative contrast not overall contrast. Increased development will not bring out the clouds to any extent If you don't use some filtration and just increase development you are just going to get a denser version of what you got previously. At least as far as the clouds are concerned. If it were that easy no one would buy yellow filters.

 

[Old-N-Feeble]

If you want to bump the contrast of your already developed negs, you can selenium tone them.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

If you want to bump the contrast of your already developed negs, you can selenium tone them.

Yes, that is an excellent way, providing there is enough density in the high lights to begin with. Selenium intensification will do pretty much nothing with very flat negatives. What I like about it when it works, is a very noticeable increase in high light contrast and no density buildup in the toe.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You will be better off changing the contrast through using filters to change the contrast grade.

 

[ChrisBCS]

Yes, that is an excellent way, providing there is enough density in the high lights to begin with. Selenium intensification will do pretty much nothing with very flat negatives. What I like about it when it works, is a very noticeable increase in high light contrast and no density buildup in the toe.

Verrrrry interesting. Selenium toning negs is something I have never done. I will do some method googling and maybe experiment on a few negatives.

 

[ChrisBCS]

You will be better off changing the contrast through using filters to change the contrast grade.

Seems completely reasonable. Multigrade + filters exist for a purpose.