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Acros 100

I have largely given up on this film sadly. I regularly soup Ilford old and new grain films with no difficulty at all but Across 100 i find incredibly susceptible to air bells/bubbles.
I don't think that it has been mentioned elsewhere, but this film needs a pre-soak of about 5 minutes.
Good luck.
 
Re 'Across 100 i find incredibly susceptible to air bells/bubbles', perhaps that has to do with your water for some reason, for a photographer I know in Vancouver told me he stopped using Delta 100 because every time he developed it the tank's liquid contents became very bubbly/foamy. He now uses only Acros 100 successfully.
 
Great film. I've done it in D-76 straight, Rodinal 1:50, PMK and now in pyrocat. Can't seem to go bad with any of them. John
 

Hm... I've never pre-soaked it & never had a problem. Sorry to hear of the problems you've had with it.
 
I think the pre-soak is a recommendation from the Data Sheet. Can be concerning the first time you try it as the discarded soak is a dark purple.

Thanks for the advice re-water. The area i live in is a hard water area so i try and filter anything to be used in the soup, but I tended to use ID-11 with Acros and therefore had no control on the 40degree element in that mix. Perhaps in light of that, i need to consider a different developer!
 
Hi, Everyone is very sharing with the process times, dilutions, likes, dislikes, but is anyone getting a true 100 speed? I know it is better downrated, and in 5X7 I could care less if I rate it at 32. However, I am going to try it in 120 format handheld and my max aperture on mamiya 645 150mm is 3.5. So I am hoping there is a suitable soup to match the box rating, that won't detract from the inherent beauty of this much touted product. Anyone happily shooting at 100-125? Thanks in advance. Dave O'Connor
 
Hi,

FWIW, we're shooting acros roll film all the time. We don't have a darkroom, so the local lab develops for us. I assume they develop this film as a 100ASA, running it through a standard Fuji developing machine. Until now, we've been quite happy with the results. That is: I would not expose at 125 ASA and develop as 100ASA. Last week we forgot to reset the dial of our Profisix and exposed the film at 160ASA (duh...) and now we're having a bit of trouble getting anything decent from the overexposed negs. This depends if it's the shadowy details that are over-exposed or the overall image. - Shooting with the sun in your back makes it worse, but if there is lots of shadow in your image, it's still doable. Hope this makes sense to you.
 


You mean underexposed, not overexposed......
 
blix@broadpark.no said:
You mean underexposed, not overexposed......
Click to expand...

yup, you're right. Okay, everyone read: UNDEREXPOSED in our last post.

thanks blix.
 
Check out the Massive Dev Chart at DigitalTruth...it looks like there are a number of combinations that will give you 100 with Acros. I know from recent experience that Acros in Diafine will give you 100 with no problem...and very nice negatives at that.
 
Because a fellow photographer (that is a good friend) recommended Acros, I just ordered some. He uses Xtol 1:1 because he has found that he can use full rated ASA (100 vs. ASA 64 as most use).
 
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