Acros 100 35mm dev times, same as 120?

[Helinophoto]

Hi

I am currently trying to figure out the times for Fuji Acros 100 for 120 film in Tetenal Ultrafin 1:30.

The reason for this, is that the development time for 1:20 is the almost ridiculously 3.5 - 4 minutes (I use 4 minutes, but the massive dev chart operates with two times for it).
I was planning to sacrifice a 35mm roll, shot at the same exposure, then cut to smaller pieces to test out where the time for 1:30 is, to get a less critical development time for this film in Tetenal Ultrafin.

But, is there any difference between 35mm Acros and the 120 film? (I see sometimes that 35mm and 120 film differ in times on the massive dev chart).

Does anyone know?

 

[tomalophicon]

I use the same times for 35mm and 120 and it works for me.

 

[K-G]

I have also used the same times for both sizes without problems. Both D-76 and Xtol give you reasonable times and excelent result. I can recomend both of them. Good luck !

Karl-Gustaf

 

[Helinophoto]

Thank you both, the Tetenal bottle is almost empty now, so I might as well just use the rest. (I have HC-110 and a few other developers in the cupboard waiting).
Even though I will burn a film or two on trials, finding times for Tetenal Ultrafin has proven to be fun (data is scarce on the net on many films), it's fairly economical in 1:20 and works very well with most films I've tested. =) I've also submitted a few results to the massive dev chart, gives a good feeling giving something back. ^^

Going to try it out this weekend and see where it gets me, going to develop one strip in 1:20 as a reference for the others =)

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I have used Acros in 120 and in 35mm, and I actually develop the 35mm film a little bit longer.

But that's because I print 35mm with a diffusion enlarger, and 120 with a condenser. This is pretty normal, though, and things that should be taken into consideration when you process your film.
If you print 120 and 35mm with the same enlarger, you can probably develop them both for the same amount of time. Your printing of the negatives will tell you whether you need to adjust this or not. The 35mm film base is a bit thicker and has a bit more base density to shine through, so you may find out that you need to develop 35mm slightly longer to compensate for that.

Whatever works at the printing stage, that's what I always end up doing.