I ordered both above and below the lens ILFORD MG filters, so I'll compare them to see which works better for me.
In the meantime, since the filters won't arrive until the end of next week, can I use the color head dials as filters? How can I find the exact settings that are equivalent or close to the ILFORD grades I've used before? I checked the enlarger manual, but it doesn't mention anything about using these settings.
There are certainly different sizes
I ordered both above and below the lens ILFORD MG filters, so I'll compare them to see which works better for me.
While waiting for my brand new filters to arrive, I bought some cheap, old ILFORD MG filters from a local classifieds website. However, they are quite worn out, and I think this is significantly affecting the result. Last night, I wasted a lot of paper trying to achieve the right contrast but couldn't figure out what was wrong. The G5 filter didn’t give me any higher contrast than a G2, just a darker image. I think I should either learn how to adjust the color head dials or wait for the new filters to arrive.
My understanding is that the actual filters are made of the same material so optically are the same in every respect except that below the lens ones need a platform to hold them under the lens and use a plastic frame
I believe Ilford has actually said this somewhere in its literature
pentaxuser
A bit off-topic, but this relates to the enlarger's built-in red filter. I forgot to check the focus before placing the paper on the easel, so I did it with the paper and red filter in place. The aperture was set to f/4.5, and the total exposure time with the red filter was about 10s. When I developed the print, I could clearly see the circle from the focuser. My question is: Is this normal, or is my red filter too weak? I know that no safelight is completely safe for extended use or when too close to the paper, but I thought 10 seconds would be fine.
No, there are no leaks because this is a built-in filter located between the lens and bellows. It's very well sealed. When all the lights are off, the only thing I can see is the red light projected onto the easel.
Hiroh,... I think I should either learn how to adjust the color head dials or wait for the new filters to arrive.
I've been getting along with my dichroic heads just fine for most of my work, with the occasional use of Wratten #47 and #58 gels when absolutely necessary (I think I've made one or two prints with the #47 only and none with the #58 alone). Really, if you're using the extreme contrast settings a lot, you're not exposing and developing well.Doremus - I did have a number of old Tiffen color sep filters laying around in good condition. They get hazy and need to be cleaned more frequently than coated filters; but it's not like working outdoors with them, and I'm typically working with 8X10 negs anyway with the 12X12 blue-green cold light, so the magnification ratio is modest. My smaller 5X7 enlarger is equipped with an RGB additive head, so I just use its internal filtration selectively in that case if I wish to split print.
But lots of the time I don't need to go to the extremes, and can select from any number of medium blue or medium green multicoated glass filters I have on hand from various makers like Hoya or B&W.
Hiroh,
Use the values given in the Ilford document linked to in post #29 for your color head. Then just go from there. More contrast = more magenta or less yellow. Less contrast = less magenta or more yellow. EZPZ. You have downloaded and read that document, right?
And, just don't use that red filter; it makes it hard to see to focus anyway plus it's a longer wavelength that focuses in a different spot that the blue and green the paper is sensitive to. If you forget to focus, put your paper away and focus with white light or the filtration you're using to make the print. Focus wide open then stop down two stops to the lens' sharpest aperture to make the print.
Doremus
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