A new darkroom springs forth... eventually

Hi all,

I'm starting this thread to document and chat about the design and construction of my first darkroom. I plan on doing black & white and alternative process printing, maybe dabbling with color as well.

The basic layout

The room is a 6.5' x 12.5' basement space, with a low ceiling and open rafters.

The Wet Side

I have two sinks in the plan, in large part so that I can get them into (and someday out of) this room. I'll be building those myself in plywood, fiberglass cloth, and expoxy resin construction. This layout also allows more working room around the 4x5 enlarger than a single long sink. The blocked off basement window (behind the shiny fiberglass insulation) will allow for an exhaust vent. Intake venting will initially be passive, provided via light-proof baffles between the rafters on the dry side. More on ventilation later.

The Dry Side

I've adopted two LPL enlargers which will find a home here, a 4x5 and a medium format (a Rollei-branded LPL 7700). I'm planning on building a drop table for the 4x5 enlarger, so that I can choose to work at standing or sitting height. Full 20x24 prints will require the sitting level due to low ceiling clearance; the 4x5 enlarger head will actually slip up between the rafters at the top of the column. The plan for the drop table is in flux; I'm not happy with the ones I've seen so far. I'd love to find a bargain deal on a Fotar drop table or similar, and dodge the problem entirely. I'm also a bit up-in-the-air as to other dry-side particulars. I'll want storage space under the counter area, but haven't worked out those details yet.

Those are the rough basics. I'll follow up with my thoughts and plans on ventilation, storage, water routing, the sink designs, and the actual construction in coming days, weeks, and months.

References
I've found a few references to be very useful so far:
The New Darkroom Handbook, 2nd ed. This book's strength lies in coverage of darkroom ideas ranging from temporary bathroom affairs to the personal darkrooms of professional photographers. It includes plans, layouts, and a wealth of useful information on construction and design ideas.

Build Your Own Home Darkroom was a good find for me. It's not as broad in coverage of layout possibilities as The New Darkroom Handbook, but I view this book as "Darkroom Construction for Dummies" -- and I mean that in a very good way. It goes out of its way to provide basic information on woodworking tools, and much more detailed plans and approaches than The New Darkroom Handbook. As I've not done with any significant woodworking before, this book is immensely useful and I prefer most of the plans (esp. the sink plans) in this book.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) and other related threads have been of immense value. I'm incorporating a few of the clever ideas presented there in my schemes, and will call those out as I get to them. I hope to add a neat trick or two for others to pick up on as well.

John:

You may find this helpful, as well:

http://wwwcaen.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/ak3/ak3.pdf

Matt

Interesting. I'm in the process of building mine as well, though 2/3s the size of yours. I have the advantage of a high ceiling (8.5 ft from concrete floor to rafters). Essentially like the "A" diagram in the Kodak pdf, but the dry side is a bit longer than the wet side (it's not a perfect square).

I have a Delta 6 ft. sink that I picked up a couple of years ago at a photo shop closeout. That will be my wet side; so somewhat limitiing. I was thinking of a holding tray for prints under the sink. Would only be necessary for doing larger prints. I plan to buy or build a vertical print washer for up to 11x14. Will build fold down drying racks above. I plan to put a 2nd drain in the sink for the print washer outlet tube, but not until I've used it a bit and workflow is settled in. There will be 2 containers under the sink for used developer and fixer, as I have a septic system.

We use well water. There is a whole house water filter with a 30 micron sediment filter. The darkroom sink will have a standard kitchen type faucet with sprayer using regular "tap" water. There will be a separate water supply with homemade temp control, a 5 micron sediment filter, and multiple outlets. I will plumb in main shut off valves (hot and cold). My water conditioning "system" (temp and filter) will be built on a removable platform mounted above the sink so I can modify if needed. Connection to water supply will be via flexible tubing (the stainless steel wrapped lines commonly used for sinks and toilets). The mixing valves (off the shelf ball valves) will be before the single filter and the temp gauge after the filter.

I'd debating on whether to add a small sink on the otherwise dry side. Water supply and drainage is feasible. But would need a cover so as not to lose too much counter space. I'm leaning against and will consider later if necessary.

Dry side will be 6.5 ft long (interior dimension). My Omega D5 will go in a custom built stand with adjustable base (from a photography school closing), leaving a 3.5 ft surface for contact printing and film loading. There will be a work table outside the darkroom for non light sensitive activities. I also have a B22. Since the D5 has a 3 lens turret, I don't see any advantage in setting up the B22 as a dedicated 35mm enlarger (open to suggestions).

I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit going to the darkroom which I plan to use for all darkroom electrical. Should be large enough to avoid any power issues when using the enlarger. Unless, perhaps, I'm using a print dryer. But even then I don't think so.

I will suspend the ceiling slightly to allow removable ceiling panels. As I have engineered floor joists above, that provides access for routing water, electrical, and ventilation. I plan to use a pocket door as it avoids having to deal with door swing location and should be easier to lightproof. I'm still debating on wall material. Current thinking is 7/16" OSB as it is more water resistant than wallboard, can hold a screw if I need to mount something (though not too heavy) and (most importantly) can be removed and reinstalled if I need to make changes. Plywood might be better but it's so much more expensive. It will be painted and, if necessary, can take a drywall patch. Or I can mix, with 1/2" OSB on wet side and 1/2" sheetrock on dry side.

I will paint the interior black so as to minimize light reflections. Though this is a one-person darkroom so it's not like I have to deal with multiple enlargers being used simultaneously.

I have a Thomas safelight (though one of the glass panes is broken). I don't know if this will be too much light for my small space. Over the sink will be a dropped section where I can install another safelight(s) and print viewing lighting.

Some materials I am getting from a local Habitat for Humanity ReStore. There is one in Seattle: Dead Link Removed

Anyway, perhaps this exchange of ideas/thoughts will help both of us.

MattKing said:

John:

You may find this helpful, as well:

http://wwwcaen.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/ak3/ak3.pdf

Matt

Click to expand...

Thanks Matt,

I wasn't aware of that Kodak doc.

mgb74 said:

There will be 2 containers under the sink for used developer and fixer, as I have a septic system.

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Makes sense. I'm just going to have a spare container for spent fix at the outset.

For water routing, there's a utility sink and drain on other side of the right wall in my layout diagram. Hot and cold will enter the room there and the drain pipe will route out the same side. I'd like a water temp control unit (like a Haas Intellifaucet), but will likely put that off until later. In any case, I'm going to set up a plumbing board and connect everything with PEX pipe and connectors. It makes the initial setup and any subsequent reworking a no-brainer. And it seems reasonably priced.

I'm also considering getting one of these aquarium heaters with controller (500W or 800W) for water temp control. I've already got a little submersible pump, but my current heater setup is inadequate. That'll give me a nice DIY tempering arrangement.

Connection to water supply will be via flexible tubing (the stainless steel wrapped lines commonly used for sinks and toilets).

Click to expand...

Do check out PEX pipe and fittings, if you aren't already aware of this stuff. It turns plumbing into a tinkertoy type affair. Very handy.

But would need a cover so as not to lose too much counter space. I'm leaning against and will consider later if necessary.

Click to expand...

On the "consider later" front, I'm planning the build out in phases. I'll have the 4x5 enlarger on its wall-mount shortly. Then I'll finalize the drop-table size and design. Then I'll get a first feel of the working space and how I'll want to proceed with the construction.

Since the D5 has a 3 lens turret, I don't see any advantage in setting up the B22 as a dedicated 35mm enlarger (open to suggestions).

Click to expand...

One of the reasons to have a second enlarger at the ready is for flashing/fogging techniques. This can also be done with a PaperFlasher; that's all a space/cost/convenience tradeoff.

I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit going to the darkroom which I plan to use for all darkroom electrical. Should be large enough to avoid any power issues when using the enlarger. Unless, perhaps, I'm using a print dryer. But even then I don't think so.

Click to expand...

That seems like plenty. I'm fairly certain the circuit running to my room is 15A, but I don't think that will be a limitation. I will need to sort out the installation of some new outlets. I'd like to just install a GFCI outlet or two above the "processing" sink, near the wall.

I will paint the interior black so as to minimize light reflections.

Click to expand...

One of my constraints is that I rent, but have the blessing of my landlord for the darkroom. He even offered to do the through-wall plumbing! (Is there an APUG medal for "Best Landlord"?!? )

As such, I'm not painting the whole thing black. I currently plan on getting some of this flocking material which I'll hang around the enlarger, use to build some light traps in the rafter gaps in the dry-side wall, and for a few other projects.

I have a Thomas safelight (though one of the glass panes is broken). I don't know if this will be too much light for my small space.

Click to expand...

Those Thomas lights are pretty big and bright. I don't have much of a place to mount one in my room, and even then I think it'd be too much light. I'm going to try one or two smaller safelights.

Some materials I am getting from a local Habitat for Humanity ReStore. There is one in Seattle: Dead Link Removed

Click to expand...

Good tip, thanks. Might be a good place to hunt up cabinetry and/or lumber for the dry side construction.

Anyway, perhaps this exchange of ideas/thoughts will help both of us.

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Indeed!

I have pex running to the darkroom. I certainly see the advantages, but am too thrifty (i.e. cheap) to invest in a pex crimper when I have all the copper I need, plus torch, solder and fittings, left over from a previous remodel. If I do the bulk of the work in copper, I only need to rent a pex crimper for a couple of hours (included travel time). BTW, Home Depot rents them.

Typically, plumbing installs still used the flex tubing from shutoff valve to faucet, so that would remain.

2 years ago we had our kitchen redone and kept the old cabinets. Even though 18 years old, they were very serviceable and are now in my workshop. The remodeling company told me it's amazing what gets discarded. Much now goes to these Habitat stores; it's a 3 fer: less in landfills, tax deduction for owner, and income for a good cause.

I would, and did, install several circuits for the darkroom. A processor with a heater that kicks on can draw quite bit of power. Enough that it could lower the voltage and hence the light level from your enlarger. Since I was building and wiring mine myself I went with 4 20 amp circuits. That way I can have the Jobo, a print processor, a freezer, and the enlarger on separate circuits. I had already installed a subpanel for an office, so I had plenty of empty circuit openings. Make sure you use all GFCI circuits. One GFCI can protect all the downstream outlets, so it's not a big deal to add them.

I'm glad I went with a light gray color and not black. It's a much nicer room that way and I have no issues with paper fogging as confirmed by a long safelight test.

I also had to build a drop table, but I'm not very happy with my design so I won't describe it here until it's refined a bit. My next house will have a 10 foot basement ceiling.

The Haas Intellifaucet has been one of my best purchases. I needed it for the Jobo, but I use it for much more. It's nice to be able to set the wash temp and leave it, no matter what the flow rate is at. Well worth the money. Also add more than one faucet. My sink came with 4 and I thought it was crazy. I use them all.

Just some thoughts to consider:

• Drywall over the exposed rafters to minimize dust, or use drop ceiling tiles. You might need to leave part of it open for the enlarger column but the rest is a dust magnet.
  
• Under the countertops, install some vertical partitions for storing trays, matboard, foam board, etc vertically.
  
• Consider some antifatigue mats.
  
• Regardless of the color, use semigloss paint which is much easier to clean and does not seem to attract as much dust as flat paint.
  
• The paper flasher from RH Designs is worthwhile and best mounted in a fixed position so that the flash time is always the same for a given paper. Perhaps you could make a pivot arm that retires to the wall when not in use but then rotates over the print for flashing position. Or perhaps hanging from the ceiling but the cord is not that long.
  
• I think a Thomas safelight is probably too bright for your space. My darkroom is 8x16 feet and the Thomas fogged my paper. Also, mine has an audible hum which is very annoying. Too bad because it was really bright. Of course you can always reduce the light output but then it is just a big noisy replacement for a conventional safelight.
  
• With the possible exception of fixer, consider using only 1 shot chemicals. Storing chemicals takes us space, requires cleaning of the bottles, introduces needless variables, etc.
  
• If space allows, consider a smaller, low sink to house an archival print washer. If you have a large print washer (e.g. for 16x20 or 20x24) sitting on a regular height sink, then you will need a stool to reach high enough to insert/remove paper comfortably.
  
• For the sinks, you might consider making them quite deep, say ~30 inches, to allow large trays. Or make one sink 30 inches and the other just 20 for processing film, mixing chemicals, etc.
  
• For the drop table, consider two base cabinets with a 30 inch gap between them. Screw in some stringer boards on the opposing sides of each cabinet so that you can slide in a piece of 30 inch countertop material at either counter height or a low position that allows for your largest print size. You could put a piece of countertop in each position and leave the large easel sitting below and a smaller easel above. I do that with an 11x14 easel on the counter height and a 20 x 24 easel down below. Make sure that the stringers are level so there is good alignment of the enlarger to the easel.
  
• For print drying, install a couple of retractable, vinyl covered wire clothes lines that can be strung across the room or above the sinks. This saves a lot of real estate vs. drying screens.

Just some thoughts based on my experience/preferences. Enjoy the project.

Jerold, thanks for the advice, especially the points about the archival washer and the drop table.

As for the sinks, I'm currently planning on two 6 ft. by 30 inch sinks (interior dimensions) for all the reasons you state. I have the washer, so I can try placing it at various heights to see what I think. I may just lower the entire stand for the washing sink a bit.

One great sink construction tip I picked up, IIRC, from the Darkroom Portraits thread is to install a cleat rail along the back to allow a board to be placed across top of the sink, effectively turning some or all of it into additional table surface. I really like this idea since I'll have exhaust ventilation right over the back of my processing (vs. washing) sink, which makes it good placement for doing alt. process paper coating.

One wonky but unavoidable bit in all of this is that my Nuarc plate burner won't fit into the basement. I'll have to coat, head upstairs to do my exposure, then head back down to process. I don't mind this one bit, because I'm still relatively young and spry, and because I'll actually get to use the plate burner! (Craigslist was kind to me before I was fully ready.. )

L Gebhardt said:

I would, and did, install several circuits for the darkroom. A processor with a heater that kicks on can draw quite bit of power. Enough that it could lower the voltage and hence the light level from your enlarger...

The Haas Intellifaucet has been one of my best purchases. I needed it for the Jobo, but I use it for much more. It's nice to be able to set the wash temp and leave it, no matter what the flow rate is at. Well worth the money. Also add more than one faucet. My sink came with 4 and I thought it was crazy. I use them all.

Click to expand...

Good point on the electrical. Issue is not just average load but peak loads as a heat element turns on or a motor (such as freezer) starts. My biggest concern is when the circuit is shared outside the darkroom, where you may have an unexpected and unknown impact. Hence the dedicated circuit.

As to water, I have a difficult time justifying something on the order of the Haas unit - unless I find a bargain used. I'm more inclined to build a functional equivalent of this: Dead Link Removed

Though I will have, on the output side, a "manifold" with multiple outputs (including faucet spout and barbed fittings) each with their own shutoff.

What I don't know at this point is whether I need stainless steel fittings (expensive and somewhat hard to find), brass (just expensive), or will galvanized do OK? Alternatively, I could use soldered copper fittings and transition to threaded where needed (my original thinking).

The Big Enlarger

Work's been hectic lately, but I've just finished the first major step of the build out; wall-mounting my 4x5 enlarger:



Due largely to multiple rounds of careful measurement, the head snugs up nicely between the rafters at the top of the column:



Next up: the 4x5's drop table and dry-side counter space.

The stars align: I just picked up a matching pair(!!) of sinks via ebay that precisely match the dimensions I'd been planning on. While I miss the opportunity to seriously overbuild a pair of darkroom sinks, this is a big help towards getting the darkroom functional quickly.

I'm overdue for an update! The design and construction of my drop-table is done. Ironically, the day after I finished it, my copy of Tim Rudman's Photographer's Master Printing Course arrived... which included a rather similar design. It has three levels: the top is standing height, but well above the base of the column due to the low ceiling. The middle level is the normal basebord height, at a nice sitting level. The bottom level is for bigger enlargements and uses a larger baseboard. The hardware visible at the corners are heavy duty adjustable lifters turned upside-down. These let me fine-tune the baseboard level separately at each height.



I've also assembled one of the two fiberglass sinks I mentioned previously. I won't build up the other sink until I've gotten some plumbing work done.



I've got two pieces of marine plywood to use as plumbing boards, approx 48" by 13" each. I'm currently planning for a utility sink faucet plus two extra tempered taps at each sink. I may add a Y adapter on some of the tempered taps, especially on the "wash" sink. I'll also want a faucet dedicated to mixing for the tempered water line. I'd love a Haas Intellifaucet, but that's out of budget for this year.

I SEE WHERE YOU HAVE OPEN RAFTERS

I see where you talk about openrafters. In my experience, this a real DUST problem. Every time someone walks above your darkroom, it dislodges dirt, and debris down onto everything!!! put a ceiling up -- trust me when I say I speak from experience--You dont want to be in the middle of an exposure, and nasty crap is setteling onto your work.
Also, if possible, try to have at least two separate electrical circuits(3 or 4 would be great) to isolate your enlarger from other functions, especially any tank heaters, as they can cause a current fluxuation.

ralnphot said:

I see where you talk about openrafters. In my experience, this a real DUST problem.

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Thanks for the advice; Jerold Halter has warned about this problem as well. I'm currently planning to use plastic sheeting to seal off the open rafters. Fortunately, I've observed very little dust settling on the (covered) enlarger in the few weeks it's been mounted.

Also, if possible, try to have at least two separate electrical circuits(3 or 4 would be great) to isolate your enlarger from other functions, especially any tank heaters, as they can cause a current fluxuation.

Click to expand...

I have one circuit already, but I expect to end up with only two total in the room initially. I've got two LPL enlargers, a 4550XLG and a 7700. The 4550 has a stabilized power supply; I'm not sure about the 7700, however. I may also consider using a voltage stabilizer for the entire dry side.

It is looking good. Thanks for sharing the images.

That picture of the enlarger head between the rafters is a little concerning. I suspect everyone that sees it will say you should lower the thing and cover up the ceiling. I would say that also.

In my case, the ceiling carries all the gas water and electrical to the whole house, so I was unable to cover it over. Dust falls down every time some one walks on the floor above.

I'm currently experimenting with rubberized spray on coatings to try and seal the wood between the rafters. I see that your rafters and ceiling are painted, so maybe you will be ok.

ic-racer said:

I see that your rafters and ceiling are painted, so maybe you will be ok.

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I think the paint does help out quite a bit. Not to worry, the ceiling will be covered over at some point during the project. The enlarger head itself is sealed up in the meantime. I'm not going to drywall it, as I rent (I will say again: best. landlord. ever.), but I'm going to line the rafters and ceiling over the dry side with something dust-proof, dark, and removable.

It's also crucial that I not block off the ceiling over the dry side completely as my air intake is the space between the rafters the top of the framing. Some gaps (over the enlarger) will be blocked, but others will simply have light baffles installed.

Currently, I can summarize the state of my Wet Darkroom as being neither Wet nor Dark. Thus my tasks are:

1. Light-proof the gaps between the rafters in the dry-side wall.
2. Patch a couple of minor light leaks in the wash sink wall.
3. Trying to make the door light tight is a lost cause; easier to sail to Japan in a sieve. I'll do some partial light blocking and use a dark cloth.
4. Get the wall marked up for the hot/cold water and drain plumbing placement.
5. Determine placement and layout of the two plumbing boards.
6. Coat the baseboards, tray ladder rails, and plumbing boards with epoxy resin.

Another conundrum I face regards ventilation and plumbing access around the developing sink. Specifically, behind-sink venting and the plumbing want to be in roughly the same space. I can't just add depth; there's no room to bring the sink out from the wall any more. I did get a quote from Cal. Stainless on a lovely 60" wide combination vent hood and shelf. Cost was on the order of the entire expected darkroom project...

John W said:

...I did get a quote from Cal. Stainless on a lovely 60" wide combination vent hood and shelf. Cost was on the order of the entire expected darkroom project...

Click to expand...

Have you tried a heating contractor that has the ability to form sheet metal duct (assuming they still exist)? Galvanized steel won't be as pretty, but for a hood should last just as long.

I find that ventilation is over-rated but my situation might be atypical. I rarely have open trays of chemicals out and don't use brown toner or some of the nastier smelling items. But if you want it well ventilated you might be able to put in a small bathroom fan on one end of the room and a louvered vent on the other end of the room (for return air). If you don't have a way to supply new air to the room, you might as well not bother because the fan is just sucking a vacuum and does not function well. If you use a light-tight louver, put some air-filter material in it to minimize dust.

The open rafters will curse you if you don't cover them up.

For the print washer, consider building a small bench for it placed at right angles to the sink. That way the washer can be lower so that its top is even with the sink and it is easier to get prints in and out. You can drain the sink with a flexible vinyl hose into the same drain that supplies the sink. That will give you much more sink room as well. A fully loaded print washer is quite heavy and immovable and might bow your sink a little.

For simple gadgets to plug light leaks (like though a power outlet on a wall that faces into the sunlight) I just use masking tape and a leftover "sleeve" from a TMAX Readiload. For the door, you might try some of the stuff that goes on the bottom of a garage door to seal out air. You can cut it to length and use brads to nail it up as a flange on the outside of the door. That takes care of most of it. For the bottom of the door you can use towels or one of those insulated snakes that people use in the winter to seal the heat at the bottom of the door (but those can be dusty).

Your project looks great. Keep posting pictures as it develops.

I'll add that the drop table was constructed with no power tools on my part beyond a corded drill. I wrote up a cut order diagram for the 4'x8', 3/4" marine ply, and had that cut to spec at the lumber yard (Dunn Lumber, in Seattle -- they rock, btw). The rest of the cuts (sizing the 5/4 x 4 fir boards and the cutout for the enlarger column) were done with a modestly priced ($20) Japanese pull-cut saw ("Bear Saw" brand). I kept cuts square using a $1 basswood carving block, a square, and a few clamps. That saw is awesome -- the fresh cut face is so fine it's as if it were sanded. Yeah, this probably marks me as a woodworking newbie, but this was my first serious woodworking project, so color me impressed.

I'm really liking that red sink! Did you use plans from a specific source for that?

ic-racer said:

It is looking good. Thanks for sharing the images.

That picture of the enlarger head between the rafters is a little concerning. I suspect everyone that sees it will say you should lower the thing and cover up the ceiling. I would say that also.

In my case, the ceiling carries all the gas water and electrical to the whole house, so I was unable to cover it over. Dust falls down every time some one walks on the floor above.

I'm currently experimenting with rubberized spray on coatings to try and seal the wood between the rafters. I see that your rafters and ceiling are painted, so maybe you will be ok.

Click to expand...

I had a similar problem in a previous darkroom; it wasn't practical to put in a fixed ceiling. I used a suspended ceiling like is used in office buildings. It was simple to install and inexpensive. The only problem was when I needed to move a tile to access something. Then I got a face full of dust.

lmn said:

I'm really liking that red sink! Did you use plans from a specific source for that?

Click to expand...

Thanks, I really like the red as well. As it turns out, I didn't end up building sinks after all. A pair (!!) of sinks precisely matching the dimensions I'd planned on appeared on eBay, so I seized them... that's saved me probably months of calendar time that it would have taken to get the sink building project completed. The second sink isn't installed yet, as I need room to maneuver while getting the plumbing installed.

Wow, I had no idea how deep a prognostication that "eventually" would become in the thread's title. Life pulled me in other directions for a while. That's past now. Work has been ongoing but obviously sporadic:

• I've just finished and done preliminary testing of the drain plumbing this past weekend. Yessss!
• Installation of an additional dedicated electrical circuit, GFCI electrical outlets, and a Panasonic WhisperWall vent fan are also done.

The hot/cold/tempered plumbing planning and parts acquisition was completed ages ago and I'll be working on that next.

Light-proofing is the other task at-hand. Some of the light gaps are spaces above the framing and between the open rafters. These big holes admit light, dust, and cats, none of which belong in the darkroom. I'll be blocking them on the outside with open-cell foam cut to fit, and on the inside with blackout cloth as needed for additional light blocking. The door and its framing might as well be a LiteBrite for all the gaps; I'm working on a special solution for that. Related, the GFCI outlets have lovely bright green LED's which I'll need to mask out as well. Mark that down as another photographic use for gaff tape!

Anyhow, it's good to be back. I'll be posting again regularly here with pictures of the recent and ongoing work.