A Hello and maybe some help.

[NFSmaster16]

Hi, im new here and have been shooting photography for the past maybe 10 or so years. I am no professional, but I try my best and do manage to sell a few on the side when I can.
I recently got a Mamiya C330s with 4 lenses, and I also managed to grab a Weston Master 2 735 for a light meter, I dont have a lot of money for some of these digital meters, and I dont mind learning.

I mostly do Car Photography and use Aperture mode digitally, just cause there are so many different colors for cars and a ton of other factors. So I usually just slam my aperture as low as it goes and I believe they come out decent I've had others look at them and agree.

I am going to use the 55mm or the 80mm lens and want to know if I can do kind of the same thing. Could I just leave it at the lowest f stop and then just adjust my shutter speed or would my pictures come out weird. This is my first medium format camera, and first time shooting 120 film. I have done 35mm before but it was just a point and shoot.

If anyone could grant me with knowledge I would really appreciate that.

Thank You in advance.

 

[btaylor]

You are shooting medium format with longer focal lengths, so your depth of field will likely be more shallow than your digital shoots. I think it would be wise to consult a depth of field table to see if the DOF will be sufficient for your subject, focal length and camera position. Unfortunately with a twin lens reflex you can’t see that through the viewfinder, but I do believe there is a DOF indicator on your Mamiya. My experience is that those on-camera tables are optimistic, but your testing will confirm that. Nothing wrong with an old Weston meter as long as it’s accurate, just read up on the technique to using effectively. Have fun and shoot lots of film!

 

[MattKing]

So I usually just slam my aperture as low as it goes and I believe they come out decent I've had others look at them and agree.

When you say this, are you saying that the aperture number is as low as it goes - f/2.8 on the 80mm lens and f/4.5 on the 55mm lens - or are you saying that you close down the aperture to its smallest size - f/22??

 

[NFSmaster16]

When you say this, are you saying that the aperture number is as low as it goes - f/2.8 on the 80mm lens and f/4.5 on the 55mm lens - or are you saying that you close down the aperture to its smallest size - f/22??

Yes as low as it can go, I tend to not edit photos, so I try to use my cameras ability to get blur in the background without having to edit anything. Or at least this is how I've been thinking for the past 10 years. Its been working so far for me on digital, but maybe someone can enlighten me.

 

[NFSmaster16]

You are shooting medium format with longer focal lengths, so your depth of field will likely be more shallow than your digital shoots. I think it would be wise to consult a depth of field table to see if the DOF will be sufficient for your subject, focal length and camera position. Unfortunately with a twin lens reflex you can’t see that through the viewfinder, but I do believe there is a DOF indicator on your Mamiya. My experience is that those on-camera tables are optimistic, but your testing will confirm that. Nothing wrong with an old Weston meter as long as it’s accurate, just read up on the technique to using effectively. Have fun and shoot lots of film!

Its probably blowing over my head and I've searched the camera a few times and I do not see a DOF table on it, but I do see a few online so I may use those as a reference. Thanks for the heads up

 

[MattKing]

I don't believe the C330s has a depth of field indicator on it - the C330 certainly doesn't - but the camera's manual has them. You can find them through the Butkus site here: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330s/mamiya_c330s.htm
His requested donation is only fair.

 

[mshchem]

On the C330 cameras I've used there's a DOF scale on the focusing rail, adjustable to different lenses

 

[MattKing]

On the C330 cameras I've used there's a DOF scale on the focusing rail, adjustable to different lenses

You are right - but they are so hard to use and so prone to malfunction, I forget about them.

 

[NFSmaster16]

I don't believe the C330s has a depth of field indicator on it - the C330 certainly doesn't - but the camera's manual has them. You can find them through the Butkus site here: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330s/mamiya_c330s.htm
His requested donation is only fair.

I have actually looked at this before when I was double checking what something did. Thanks.

 

[250swb]

I have actually looked at this before when I was double checking what something did. Thanks.

You are going to have a million things to think about with the C330, like compensating for parallax, changing lenses correctly, narrower DOF than you are used to, types of film, and if you aren't using a tripod just getting a steady shot can need practice. So rehearse by shooting a roll or two where there is no time frame or pressure and get used to how everything works on the camera and looks when you get the negatives back.

 

[Dan Daniel]

You are going to have a million things to think about with the C330, like compensating for parallax, changing lenses correctly, narrower DOF than you are used to, types of film, and if you aren't using a tripod just getting a steady shot can need practice. So rehearse by shooting a roll or two where there is no time frame or pressure and get used to how everything works on the camera and looks when you get the negatives back.

Yes, all of this. And then after the negatives are developed, there is another significant step of scanning (assuming you will be working in 'that which will not be named' for final images). Remember that this step needs to be given attention. Scan resolution from the lab? File format? Or doing your own? Using a 'TWWNBN' camera? A scanner itself? Well, just remember that this is a significant part of the imaging chain.

As to the camera itself, I recommend spending time simply looking through the viewfinder of a TLR. Move the camera, focus, check for tilting, practice, practice, pratice. Sit in front of the TV and just scan the room. The reversed image is confusing at first, but the brain (usually) gets used to it after some time (not everyone finds a TLR comfortable to use). Another thing to have behind you before your first day of shooting at a car show or such.

 

[warden]

Hi, im new here and have been shooting photography for the past maybe 10 or so years. I am no professional, but I try my best and do manage to sell a few on the side when I can.
I recently got a Mamiya C330s with 4 lenses, and I also managed to grab a Weston Master 2 735 for a light meter, I dont have a lot of money for some of these digital meters, and I dont mind learning.

I mostly do Car Photography and use Aperture mode digitally, just cause there are so many different colors for cars and a ton of other factors. So I usually just slam my aperture as low as it goes and I believe they come out decent I've had others look at them and agree.

I am going to use the 55mm or the 80mm lens and want to know if I can do kind of the same thing. Could I just leave it at the lowest f stop and then just adjust my shutter speed or would my pictures come out weird. This is my first medium format camera, and first time shooting 120 film. I have done 35mm before but it was just a point and shoot.

If anyone could grant me with knowledge I would really appreciate that.

Thank You in advance.

You’re going to love medium format after a little practice. If you lIke out of focus backgrounds you’ll certainly get it. Grab some slow film for sunny days and have at it. Share your results when you can and ask questions when you hit a snag.

Welcome aboard!

 

[Sirius Glass]

I don't believe the C330s has a depth of field indicator on it - the C330 certainly doesn't - but the camera's manual has them. You can find them through the Butkus site here: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330s/mamiya_c330s.htm
His requested donation is only fair.

On the C330 cameras I've used there's a DOF scale on the focusing rail, adjustable to different lenses

That is what I used, but ending up using what I saw through the upper lens to estimate the depth of field, know that it would be larger than what I was seeing.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[grahamp]

The viewing lens on the 55mm and 80mm is fixed at the same maximum aperture as the taking lens. You won't have much depth of field to work with, but yes, what you see in the finder is a good guide to what you get. I'd still spend a little time with an online depth of field calculator a]for the distances you usually work. Make sure to set the film format to 6x6. That cheat sheet will help a lot. I'd probably do tables for f4, f5.6, and f8 as well, assuming you work inside.

The left-to-right finder reversal will probably throw you off at first. It makes adjusting verticals a little strange. After a while it becomes second nature.

Do use the magnifier in the finder - if you work wide open there is not much leeway for missed focus.

Mamiya TLR System Summary

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

If it's shallow depth of field you're after, then yes, adjust the shutter speed accordingly.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

...and welcome to Photrio!

 

[NFSmaster16]

You are going to have a million things to think about with the C330, like compensating for parallax, changing lenses correctly, narrower DOF than you are used to, types of film, and if you aren't using a tripod just getting a steady shot can need practice. So rehearse by shooting a roll or two where there is no time frame or pressure and get used to how everything works on the camera and looks when you get the negatives back.

I know it a lot to learn. I definitely have a task to learn all of this. Also I went on ebay and found some what seemed like cheap practice rolls, and I've been shooting random stuff at home, in the driveway, on the porch, trees, and cant forget the perfect example the cat. Just whatever in different lighting situations to help with also learning the light meter I got. Thanks

 

[NFSmaster16]

Yes, all of this. And then after the negatives are developed, there is another significant step of scanning (assuming you will be working in 'that which will not be named' for final images). Remember that this step needs to be given attention. Scan resolution from the lab? File format? Or doing your own? Using a 'TWWNBN' camera? A scanner itself? Well, just remember that this is a significant part of the imaging chain.

As to the camera itself, I recommend spending time simply looking through the viewfinder of a TLR. Move the camera, focus, check for tilting, practice, practice, pratice. Sit in front of the TV and just scan the room. The reversed image is confusing at first, but the brain (usually) gets used to it after some time (not everyone finds a TLR comfortable to use). Another thing to have behind you before your first day of shooting at a car show or such.

I don't plan on doing my own developing just yet, maybe in a few years when I can make a room a dark room. I plan on using a not local but within my state lab that has from what i've seen a decent reputation. Going to go for large scans just incase I do want to edit on the forbidden program, I prefer not to because I like the original looks of photos.

And i've found some "practice film" I think its just to test if it counts correctly, but its been good and helps me practice to remember to wind for the next photo. I've already done it a few times where I try to take a photo and nothing happens and then im like "Oh forgot to wind", its good practice for me. Thanks for the info.

 

[NFSmaster16]

You’re going to love medium format after a little practice. If you lIke out of focus backgrounds you’ll certainly get it. Grab some slow film for sunny days and have at it. Share your results when you can and ask questions when you hit a snag.

Welcome aboard!

Yep, im going to be heading out this sunday for a cars and coffee, I got some Porta 400, I've seen car photos with it and I think they look great. When I get everything done ill be sure to put some on here. Thanks

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

By the way, my first medium format camera was a C330. Lovely camera with great optics. Hard to beat that square format! However, I quickly moved over to the RB67, for slightly larger negative, and more versatility.