So I usually just slam my aperture as low as it goes and I believe they come out decent I've had others look at them and agree.
When you say this, are you saying that the aperture number is as low as it goes - f/2.8 on the 80mm lens and f/4.5 on the 55mm lens - or are you saying that you close down the aperture to its smallest size - f/22??
You are shooting medium format with longer focal lengths, so your depth of field will likely be more shallow than your digital shoots. I think it would be wise to consult a depth of field table to see if the DOF will be sufficient for your subject, focal length and camera position. Unfortunately with a twin lens reflex you can’t see that through the viewfinder, but I do believe there is a DOF indicator on your Mamiya. My experience is that those on-camera tables are optimistic, but your testing will confirm that. Nothing wrong with an old Weston meter as long as it’s accurate, just read up on the technique to using effectively. Have fun and shoot lots of film!
On the C330 cameras I've used there's a DOF scale on the focusing rail, adjustable to different lenses
I don't believe the C330s has a depth of field indicator on it - the C330 certainly doesn't - but the camera's manual has them. You can find them through the Butkus site here: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330s/mamiya_c330s.htm
His requested donation is only fair.
I have actually looked at this before when I was double checking what something did. Thanks.
Yes, all of this. And then after the negatives are developed, there is another significant step of scanning (assuming you will be working in 'that which will not be named' for final images). Remember that this step needs to be given attention. Scan resolution from the lab? File format? Or doing your own? Using a 'TWWNBN' camera? A scanner itself? Well, just remember that this is a significant part of the imaging chain.You are going to have a million things to think about with the C330, like compensating for parallax, changing lenses correctly, narrower DOF than you are used to, types of film, and if you aren't using a tripod just getting a steady shot can need practice. So rehearse by shooting a roll or two where there is no time frame or pressure and get used to how everything works on the camera and looks when you get the negatives back.
Hi, im new here and have been shooting photography for the past maybe 10 or so years. I am no professional, but I try my best and do manage to sell a few on the side when I can.
I recently got a Mamiya C330s with 4 lenses, and I also managed to grab a Weston Master 2 735 for a light meter, I dont have a lot of money for some of these digital meters, and I dont mind learning.
I mostly do Car Photography and use Aperture mode digitally, just cause there are so many different colors for cars and a ton of other factors. So I usually just slam my aperture as low as it goes and I believe they come out decent I've had others look at them and agree.
I am going to use the 55mm or the 80mm lens and want to know if I can do kind of the same thing. Could I just leave it at the lowest f stop and then just adjust my shutter speed or would my pictures come out weird. This is my first medium format camera, and first time shooting 120 film. I have done 35mm before but it was just a point and shoot.
If anyone could grant me with knowledge I would really appreciate that.
Thank You in advance.
I don't believe the C330s has a depth of field indicator on it - the C330 certainly doesn't - but the camera's manual has them. You can find them through the Butkus site here: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330s/mamiya_c330s.htm
His requested donation is only fair.
On the C330 cameras I've used there's a DOF scale on the focusing rail, adjustable to different lenses
You are going to have a million things to think about with the C330, like compensating for parallax, changing lenses correctly, narrower DOF than you are used to, types of film, and if you aren't using a tripod just getting a steady shot can need practice. So rehearse by shooting a roll or two where there is no time frame or pressure and get used to how everything works on the camera and looks when you get the negatives back.
Yes, all of this. And then after the negatives are developed, there is another significant step of scanning (assuming you will be working in 'that which will not be named' for final images). Remember that this step needs to be given attention. Scan resolution from the lab? File format? Or doing your own? Using a 'TWWNBN' camera? A scanner itself? Well, just remember that this is a significant part of the imaging chain.
As to the camera itself, I recommend spending time simply looking through the viewfinder of a TLR. Move the camera, focus, check for tilting, practice, practice, pratice. Sit in front of the TV and just scan the room. The reversed image is confusing at first, but the brain (usually) gets used to it after some time (not everyone finds a TLR comfortable to use). Another thing to have behind you before your first day of shooting at a car show or such.
You’re going to love medium format after a little practice. If you lIke out of focus backgrounds you’ll certainly get it. Grab some slow film for sunny days and have at it. Share your results when you can and ask questions when you hit a snag.
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