A few questions - New to Polaroid/Fuji

JJB · Oct 14, 2010

Hi All

I just picked up a Polaroid back for my RB67, and the first shots are great! I am using Fuji FP-100c, and will try out the B&W when it runs out.

I have a few questions...

1) The time for my temp says I should develop it for 120 seconds. Is this an exact time? What happens if I don't separate the two halves for 4 or 5 minutes?

2) There is a small amount of chemicals left over on the print after I take it all apart. Is this an issue, should I clean it off? Or even wash the print like I do my regular prints? I have kids and want them to be able to have some of the prints...

3) Anything else somebody new to Polaroid/Fuji should know?

Thanks!

JJ

Scott_Sheppard · Oct 14, 2010

JJB said:
1) The time for my temp says I should develop it for 120 seconds. Is this an exact time? What happens if I don't separate the two halves for 4 or 5 minutes?

The Fujifilm Instant is self terminating. You can not peel it for 10 minutes or longer if you like, you only have to worrie about it DRYING out. So the peel time really depends on the humidity and temp where you are shooting this at.

JJB said:
2) There is a small amount of chemicals left over on the print after I take it all apart. Is this an issue, should I clean it off? Or even wash the print like I do my regular prints? I have kids and want them to be able to have some of the prints...

I would not do anything and just let them dry/cure. If you want to wash them you can but ONLY after they are cured and you must do this VERY gently or you will lift the emulsion off the plastic backing (paper).

JJB said:
3) Anything else somebody new to Polaroid/Fuji should know?

Shoot a LOT of it and have fun !! Go get some of the Fujifilm FP-3000b stock... you will LOVE IT !!

Thanks

Scott

frontdrive34 · Oct 15, 2010

I sometimes don't peel any Fuji FP100 till I get home.

Avoid peeling in a dusty environment as stuff will stick to a wet print and looks awful if you scan it.

I also avoid stacking them too soon as they can stick to each other.

JJB · Oct 16, 2010

Thanks all!

I had some of that 3000 in my hand at the store, but went with the 100 speed film. Guess I will give it a shot when I go for my next supply run...

BobCrowley · Oct 18, 2010

I seem to use up more of the FP-100c nowadays than any other film. It's sharp, has wonderful, flattering skin tones, and you can even get a decent negative from it to scan in later.

Check out the many FP-100C examples at http://new55project.blogspot.com including the negative reclamation section.

If you can nab a little FP-100b before it disappears forever, you might want to go for it. Very smooth greys, ISO 100 and wonderful. Too bad it went out of production, but I see it on ebay and elsewhere.

Wishy · Oct 22, 2010

BobCrowley said:
If you can nab a little FP-100b before it disappears forever, you might want to go for it. Very smooth greys, ISO 100 and wonderful. Too bad it went out of production, but I see it on ebay and elsewhere.

FP100b is great, very much preferred over the polaroid black and white materials, however as far as i can see, its still in production dispute some rumors
FP100c isn't so good for me, great for passport photos, but i don't like my highlights turning black, and I don't care much for its colour pallet.

If your new to polaroid, I would suggest you try some Polaroid Chocolate, Blue and Sepia film before it dries up, quite literally! 125i and or 669 are also worth trying.

JJB · Oct 22, 2010

IO just went through a pack of 100c today. Love it! Hope is stays around, I use it for proofing...

patrick j. clarke · Oct 26, 2010

...and don't forget with FP-100C you can dissolve the black backing with some bleach and have a great "real" negative!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickjclarke/sets/72157624773464347/

- pjc

mr. mohaupt · May 7, 2011

Ah ha! Finally a post I was looking for. I posted this on the MF side and have received no responses. I just purchased an RB and a Polaroid back and would love to see examples of Fuji FP-100B. Also can some one explains the process of getting the negatives from the paper backing? Are they scannable wih an Epson 500?

Thanks!
~Mike

willrea · May 7, 2011

mr. mohaupt said:
Also can some one explains the process of getting the negatives from the paper backing?

The thread talking about this is (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

guitstik · May 7, 2011

You can also place the picture in boiling water to do an emulsion lift that you can use to do really cool effects. I use my Polaroid Automatic 100 and 360 more than I use my holders for my 4x5.

mr. mohaupt · May 7, 2011

Thanks Willrea! I will look over that a little kore closely.

Does any one have any sample shoots of the prints shot from a Mamiya RB?

Joe O'Brien · May 10, 2011

Does anyone know if you can reclaim the negative from 100b as well as 100c?

xya · May 11, 2011

not really. it is possible with some problems, but the results are not convincing. have a look at this page:

http://new55project.blogspot.com/2010/04/blog-post_6525.html

it's not possible at all with 3000b. by the way: emulsion transfer doesn't work with either b&w fuji pack film, at least I have not been capable doing this (if somebody has a solution I would be very much interested). however, b&w scans from 100c can be nice.

kind regards

reinhard

A few questions - New to Polaroid/Fuji

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