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A BW paper developer recommendation

Mainecoonmaniac

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I've been using Ilford Multigrade paper developer. I've been using it for years and I'd like to find out about other developers. I like my prints to be neutral or warmish in tone. I'd like something that's economical and long lasting that's in liquid form. I discovered Xtol through APUGers and I'm quite pleased with the recommendation. Thanks in advance!
 
I'd try Ilford PQ. It's a a tad bit warmer than Multigrade and gives slightly "poppier" whites.
 
Adrian Twiss said:
You could check this site out.

www.moersch-photochemie.de - he sells a wide variety of print developers and his site shows examples of how they perform.

There is a link to an English version of the site.
Click to expand...

I support this. I use Moersch Eco Developer and have not looked back ever since. working strength solution will keep for up to 8 months, it brings out the best of tones in all papers I have used, and it is cheap too!
 
Adolux Adotol Konstant aka Calbe N113 (it´s the same, just different label). Very cheap but high quality. Only drawback is that it comes in powder form, but mixing is easy. The powder won´t go bad and once mixed the shelf life of the developer is also exceptional.

Best, Benjamin
 
I had also used Ilford Multigrade for years, but a couple of years ago switched to LPD, available from Freestyle. Some have said the letters stand for "Longlasting Paper Developer", because its endurance qualities are legendary, both in terms of print capacity in a given session and in shelf life. My understanding is that it's available in both liquid and powder form, though I have only used the powder. With most developers as you change the dilution, print contrast would likely change, but with LPD, as you change the dilution of the concentrate to make the working solution, constrast remains consistent, but it changes the warm/neutral/cold tone of your prints. The back of the can lists the different concentrations to use to get different tones from either warm or neutral tone papers.

I consistently get superb results from this developer, and I swear, you can't kill it.

Regards,

Dave
 
Liquidol from the Formulary, lasts forever and then some.

Developed by PE (no pun intended).
 
I'd try the fotospeed developers, for warmth their wt10 can't be beaten, the more you dilute it, up to 1/29,the warmer it gets, also the warmer the solution is the warmer the results,I generally keep it at 22, and the developing time is constant, for 1/29 3.20 for either fb or rc paper, and 1/19 2.20, 1/9 1.20,it is now my developer of choice,and if you want to try a MGtype then try PD10, Richard
 
Thanks to all responded. I'm open to more recommendations. Nothing beats knowledgable photographers using the product and getting real feed back.
Best,
Don
 
If you can try ansco 130. It's my favorite developer. Its similar to the one used by Ansel Adams
 
I know you specifically requested info on liquid concentrates, but you know, I've been so happy with just plain old pedestrian Dektol for so many years I couldn't let this pass without mentioning it. If you want it to go warm (and a lot of that will depend on the paper you choose) just dilute it more. At 1+4 you can start to see it warm up after a couple of prints have gone through a liter or so. And it's not that hard to mix up. It lasts a long time both as a concentrate and in the tray: and it is not at all expensive, at least not in the US. What's not to like?
 
I recently started using Tektol from Silvergrain....also known as Legacy Pro EcoPro from Freestyle. Can't complain about the cost and I do like it better than dektol which used to be my standard,
 
LPD is one of my favorite developers. I've also used Agfa Neutol for long darkroom sessions with a fairly high volume output. Neutol lasts forever in the tray but is pretty alkaline stuff - a bit tough on the fingers - use tongs. I'm not sure Neutol is still made.
 
i am another ansco ( forumlary ) 130 person.
it gives a long delicate scale if you want it to,
and lasts for a very very long time.
i mix about 6-7 gallons at the beginning of the year and
use it little by little. when i get to the end, it is very bit as good
as when i first mixed it. if you are daring, you can use it for your film too.

have fun!
john
 
Kodak Dektol it has been available for years for a reason, it works.
 
Nothing likes home made soup


So do you have to dilute it before you use it?
 
I know you want a 'convenient liquid' - but I would like to suggest an inconvenient alternative.

Get a supply of chemicals for Artcraft or Photographers' Formulary and then you can mix up all sorts of developers to your heart's content.

Adding P. Bromide and S. Carbonate to Dektol can affect some subtle alterations in print tone. The amount of tone change depends on the paper.

Adding Hydroquinone, Metol, S. Sulfite, Glycin and Ascorbic acid and you can make up a very wide range of paper developers: D72/Dektol, Defender 55 (?) warm-tone, Ansco 130 and the Adams' variation, Ansco 110 and 120 warm tone, Selectol/soft, Gainer's Vitamin C developers [add Phenidone to the chemical list], Gevaert 67 ultra-warm ...

Teaspoon measurements are more than adequate for paper developers, but a decent digital balance can be had for little money.
 
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Agreed - also buy a copy of Stephen Anchell's work "The Darkroom Cookbook". Its full of useful formula that work. One of my favourites is Defender 55D portrait developer - gives very pleasing warm tones and gradation.
 
I agree with Nicholas and Adrian. Stick to what you have or mix your own to tweak it to what you like best. It's difficult to judge by asking others for their preferences. All that gets you is as many posts as there are developers. But, since you're asking, here are the two developers I use:
 

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Am I man enough?


Hey Ralph,
Want to thank you, Nicholas and Adrian for encouraging me to mix my own. I'm sure I could do it. So how much outlay to invest to start mixing my own? It's it a lot cheaper? Are the print developers have qualities I can't get from something pre-mixed?
 
Its not so much about the qualities than about the diversity of different home brews and having more options available. Also, over the years manufacturers have rationalised choices considerably. Take, for example, Jim Carbone's copper toning developer - it contains Pyrocatechin. Very few developers available on the open market contain Pyrocatechin so if you wanted such a developer you had to make your own.

The outlay is surprisingly low. The most expensive item will be a quality set of scales. A chemist friend of mine recommended that your scales should resolve to 1/100 of a gramme in order to accurately measure ingredients between 1/10 of a gramme and 1 gramme.

The basic chemicals such as Metol, Sodium Sulphite, Sodium and Potassium Carbonate etc are fairly inexpensive (Photographers Formulary are a good source). More exotic chemicals such as Glycin and Amidol are more expensive.
 
As Adrian says, the investment is small, and mixing your own can be cheaper in the long run, but I don't do it for the money. I do it for the flexibility and for always having fresh chemicals, because I mix just as much as I need. Mixing your own is a very rewarding experience.
 
Thanks. I already mix simple darkroom recipes like cyanotype and gum dichromate emulsions. I have a cheap kitchen scale and it looks like I have to upgrade my scales to weigh out fractions of a gram. I'm going to look into it.
 
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