(9V recharbable batteries

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4season

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I've got TWO of those tiny solar chargers, but I've never had any luck recharging silver-oxide batteries. Tried many times -- nothing! WHAT'S YOUR SECRET???

No secret: When camera meter LEDs start to dim, or my kitchen timer LCD becomes hard to read, I charge the batteries for maybe 30 minutes to an hour or so, and that seems to give me another few days of okay performance. They're nowhere near as good as brand-new batteries, of course, but I can do this repeatedly. I use this:
https://solarmade.com/products/sbe-1
Yes, I know they recommend against charging silver cells, but I've gotten away with it so far, though I just tossed out a few which were bulging noticeably.
 

xkaes

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I use the SBE-1 too, but I can never get the LED to light up when I stick in a silver-oxide -- so I know it doesn't like them. Maybe I'll give it another try, but the button cells are so cheap nowadays............
 

4season

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The company EBL makes 1.5V AA lithium ion rechargeable batteries. They are 3.7V with a regulator built in so they keep a constant 1.5V through out there discharge cycle.

I just got back from my neighborhood hardware store, which was selling something similar (including 9 volt batteries!) under a different brand name, but they too were li-ion and came bundled with short USB cables for charging. Not cheap, but very interesting because they deliver the full 1.5 and 9 volts, compared with more typical 1.2 and 7 volts. And li-ion cells in general have high energy density.
 
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RalphLambrecht

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Is it in the case? I’ve somehow put my Gossen LunaPro SBC back into its case and caught the measure button under the case. Constantly being on wire out he battery. That was a “once and lesson learned “ experience. When correctly in the case it’s more resistant to inadvertent activation.

No, they are not in the case, just loosely in the camera bag. The purse-like cases are great protection but too much trouble to take the meter out or put it back in with one hand. I keep them in the bag to get to them quickly.
 

MattKing

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I recommend a relatively firm-sided holster-like, open ended pouch for the meter. Place that in your camera bag, to protect the buttons from being accidentally pushed.
 
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RalphLambrecht

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It is both! When you discharge the battery below certain point you make it worse. It generally still work but not as good as before. In this case you perhaps may have a dud too.
May want to try these. They hold more charge than a NiMH rechargeable and they hold the voltage steady.
You're right thanks for the link. I will give them a try!
 

Philippe-Georges

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I'm talking about the Gossen Luna Star F2.

I guessed that as you ware talking about 9V batteries.
I had two Gossen Variosix F's, these ware very good light meters, till one stoped working because I was so stupid to carry it in the back pocket of my jeans...

And as I was/am so hooked on always having two of the same meters, I had to replace that one, but couldn't find a good used one. But then I saw the Digipro's, so I sold the other Variosix F to a member of this forum (who's happy with it) and got two used Digipro's in very good condition.

BTW, I almost never buy new equipment anymore, and always search for used in the best possible condition (it's a sport).
As the great W-F Hermans wrote in 'Nooit Meer Slapen' (*): "one has to be worth a new compass..." in a conversation between geologists...

(*) http://www.photoeil.be/books/nooit-meer-typen.html
 

Bushcat

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If OP is using the in-equipment charger or a generic dumb charger, find someone with an intelligent charger (or buy one): something like an ISDT e4 evo can do a good job of resurrecting cells that have been over-discharged. There are cheaper options than ISDT.

Re the 1.5V Li-ions with buck converters, note that a pack of them cannot balance between cells: when the weakest one shuts down, that's it. Standard Ni-MH (and Li-ions at 3.7V without the sneaky 1.5V doodads) do balance the pack, so the pack dies only when every cell is depleted.

(This is a Noddy's Guide: things get more complicated for packs consisting of grouped sets of serial+parallel etc)
 
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RalphLambrecht

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If OP is using the in-equipment charger or a generic dumb charger, find someone with an intelligent charger (or buy one): something like an ISDT e4 evo can do a good job of resurrecting cells that have been over-discharged. There are cheaper options than ISDT.

Re the 1.5V Li-ions with buck converters, note that a pack of them cannot balance between cells: when the weakest one shuts down, that's it. Standard Ni-MH (and Li-ions at 3.7V without the sneaky 1.5V doodads) do balance the pack, so the pack dies only when every cell is depleted.

(This is a Noddy's Guide: things get more complicated for packs consisting of grouped sets of serial+parallel etc)

I'm using a smart charger and have recharged that battery twice now. Everything is working fine. Still like to give the Li-ions a try.
 

BrianShaw

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When you write, “Everything is working fine”, Ralph, does that mean that your light meters aren’t abnormally discharging their battery?
 

pentaxuser

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It is both! When you discharge the battery below certain point you make it worse. It generally still work but not as good as before. In this case you perhaps may have a dud too.
May want to try these. They hold more charge than a NiMH rechargeable and they hold the voltage steady.


What were these batteries to which you referred?

Thanks

pentaxuser
 

Chan Tran

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What were these batteries to which you referred?

Thanks

pentaxuser

Somehow the link to Amazon doesn't work. Here is the link to EBL the company that sells these batteries. Beware that they rate their batteries capacities in mWh instead of mAh so they look high but not really so.
 

chuckroast

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I use rechargeable batteries wherever batteries are needed, and I like the idea of not having to throw batteries into the trash and not having to buy new batteries all the time. I never had a problem with that approach, and rechargeables (despite their reputation) seem to work wherever regular batteries work. My Gossen light meters are notorious for draining batteries, even when turned off! I don't care; just recharge them when required. But his time. the battery won't recharge; it just seems dead! Is it a known fact that rechargeables die when depleted below a certain minimum or was this a dud?

They have a lifecycle and will only last for so long.

NiCAD have to be fully discharged and then fully recharged several times to get them back to optimal.

But NiMH batteries don't work the same way. I don't think you're supposed to fully discharge this, but rather discharge them a good part of the way, and then recharge.
I have been moving toward NiMH for everything rechargeable as best I can because they have greater capacity typically than NiCADs in the same form factor. You do have to charge them longer with the existing charger to fully top them off.

Fortunately, they're not too expensive:

 

Sanug

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Please do not confuse "full discharge" (to 1.00 V) with "deep discharge" (to 0.00 V). For NiMh, complete charge/discharge cycles are okay (and prevent the "lazy battery" effect). Deep discharge, e.g. by a torch left on for a couple of days, is harmful for the battery.

NiCd are outdated and no more available in Europe by law. NiMh is the better technology. "Ready to use" NiMh by well known manufacturers ensures the best quality and a very low self discharge. I have very good experience with "Eneloop".
 
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