8x10 x-ray film D-76 time/temp?

HI all.

I'm shooting Fuji Super HR-T Medium Speed Green 8x10 X-ray film and will be developing it in D-76.

Any recommended temperature and dev times?

Have you had any luck going through the thread on the large format forum?
Either way I'd just start with 1+1 dilution and develop by inspection.

If you want continuous tones, don't develop D-76 straight. Dilute it 1+3. Develop by inspection, which thankfully we can do under safelights. Is it double-sided? Will you be developing in a tray?

an old thread but certainly on the same page. I was reading some probably issues about my own experiences with D-76 and that´s what I learned it which btw its not too much. I´m shooting with an old 18x24 FKD and using FUJI HRU and also Kodak Carestream. Always I do my measurements on ISO 100. I´m developing under inspection, and def it has been overwhelming to recognize when the image start to emerge. I have read a lot that most of process are using some long periods than mine, about 5-7 minutes ish, but because I´m using stock, the "image" emerges around between 1 minute or 2. At the begin when I notice that the edges are getting dark sometimes I just wait a few seconds and then I change the film to the stop tray but other times I just wait more just because I´m not sure if my negative it´s enough developed. In both situations I just get a faint image or none image. I would like to think the problem could be my safelight but I was using the same one when I was stuck in Argentina due to the pandemic. In those days I was able to use an 9x12 carpet and HC-110 and I did not have that problems at all. Anyway, now I`m used to turning off the light and turning it on every 30 seconds or 1 minute to see if the image is more contrasted. I am also trying to have the developer at a little more than 20 degrees. So although the negative is submerged in developer, I´m avoiding not to guide myself by the upper side but to lift it and see how the side that has direct contact with the bottom of the tray is. I hope one day to have the quality of negatives that I see around here, but anyway, I'll keep trying.

Don't use stock, follow Andrews method.
Use a white tray if struggle to see.
Boarders shouldn't change as they are unexposed.

White, flat-bottomed tray is the way!

Thank you guys. I was finally able to get some decent sheets with the Fuji HR-U. I took your advice and diluted my D-76 1:3 or even 1:5 and then I tried developing in a Paterson tank using taco method for an hour to an hour and a half ish. With these sheets I was able to confirm that my safelight had been fogging up my negs all this time by not being far enough away from the trays. I had no big deals with any 4x5 sheets even without having the developer warm or the fact that I used D76 and not the classic rodinal or hC-110, which I read are ideal for more extreme dilutions, btw this reminded me of something that I heard from Tim Klein when he points out that even developing formulas are sometimes nothing more than guessing how your chemistry will behave, something can always change the results even with a pattern.It´s a kind of weird thing but it happens to me often. I'd recommend developing by stand if you're totally new on this and you want to see results that you can start playing with. The next step is go back to 18x24 although I can imagine it will be a different thing def.

Here below I posted a sheet with a bit overexposed zones (I think) and minimal scratches. I´m still working on it.

Busch & Pressman with Tessar CZJ 135mm
f 5.6 -1/50
Fuji HR-U

Was this example developed in 1+3 or 1+5? I used to use Pyrocat-HD to develop Xray, but have settled on D-23 1+2. It gives excellent results. To avoid scratches on double-sided film, it is better to work with flat-bottomed trays. Before I acquired such trays, I used a piece of picture glass (from a frame) in the bottom of a tray. Worked well.

Andrew O'Neill said:

Was this example developed in 1+3 or 1+5? I used to use Pyrocat-HD to develop Xray, but have settled on D-23 1+2. It gives excellent results. To avoid scratches on double-sided film, it is better to work with flat-bottomed trays. Before I acquired such trays, I used a piece of picture glass (from a frame) in the bottom of a tray. Worked well.

Click to expand...

yup, this one was with 1:3 and I have to say that I used this dilution 3 times before. That´s why I was extending the stand time. I checked this video and Martin said that is not a big deal if you extend a bit more the process, so I thought, what the heck, it is just a few part of one sheet.


I already watched your video with the comparison between HP5 and Xray more than one time, because I was wondering why it was so difficult to me recognize the negative. I know that one of the best choices are Pyrocat H-D among others but is practically a conundrum to get something like that around here, so anyway, I`m just using powder developers. The thing is I gotta change my safelight but meanwhile I´m trying with anything that I find it for instance an old iron thermos that we used years ago for drinking mate. Think I´ll get the SP8X10 soon or later if I want to prove panchromatic or C-41 film later.

Algo después said:

yup, this one was with 1:3 and I have to say that I used this dilution 3 times before. That´s why I was extending the stand time. I checked this video and Martin said that is not a big deal if you extend a bit more the process, so I thought, what the heck, it is just a few part of one sheet.


I already watched your video with the comparison between HP5 and Xray more than one time, because I was wondering why it was so difficult to me recognize the negative. I know that one of the best choices are Pyrocat H-D among others but here is practically a conundrum to get something like that around here, so anyway, I`m just using powder developers. The thing is gotta change my safelight but meanwhile I´m trying with anything that I find it for instance an old iron thermos that we used years ago for drinking mate. Think I´ll get the SP8X10 soon or later if I want to prove panchromatic or C-41 film later.

Click to expand...

I stopped using Pyrocat-HD with xray film, as tones were muddy, compared to D-23 1+2. Anyway, is there a reason why you are doing stand development? It's very risky. I've done extensive tests with stand and semi-stand in the past. There is very little difference between the two, other than more compression of tones with full on stand...which can cross into ugly territory. Also, you run the risk of bromide drag (if film is standing vertically in the developer, and severe mottling, if working with a tray. With D-76 at 1+3, I'd play around with development time and maybe gentle agitation, every 3 minutes. The great thing about working with xray film, is we can monitor development... as long as our safelights are safe, that is!

Take a look of these different threads:




so, what do you do ? Is like when you have the evil vs the goodie voice in your head. Well not exactly ahah but kind of. So, I decided to try the stand developing because I had haven´t any decent result until now, so why not if I got the supplies. About the bromide drag, Martin said it is more common with 35mm, not in 120 or even 4x5. Actually I have no much experience on this so the thing is I haven´t seen this issue or motting problem until now. The thing with I`m dealing is with the rubber bands because sometimes I can notices some marks. About the 1:5 dilution I decided to shoot some small film pieces and try again if the developer is exhausted or if its active yet so I will report it soon when the negatives are dry.

Algo después said:

Take a look of these different threads:

Stand development and D-76? - Page 2

I read with great interest the article in View Camera mag 2 months ago about the theory and results from using so-called stand development in certain lighting situations, and have studied John Sexton's similar use of Tmax developer and Tmax film in very high-contrast situations. I assume other...

www.largeformatphotography.info

X-Ray Film Testing

Making a thread for a variety of tests I am starting to do with X-ray film. I've been playing it way too fast and loose with this stuff, and need to crack down and do serious comparisons and dial in the best methods. I figure some people out there may be interested in sharing the wealth of my...

www.thephotoforum.com

so, what do you do ? Is like when you have the evil vs the goodie voice in your head. Well not exactly ahah but kind of. So, I decided to try the stand developing because I had haven´t any decent result until now, so why not if I got the supplies. About the bromide drag, Martin said it is more common with 35mm, not in 120 or even 4x5. Actually I have no much experience on this so the thing is I haven´t seen this issue or motting problem until now. The thing with I`m dealing is with the rubber bands because sometimes I can notices some marks. About the 1:5 dilution I decided to shoot some small film pieces and try again if the developer is exhausted or if its active yet so I will report it soon when the negatives are dry.

Click to expand...

Bromide drag doesn't care what format the film is.

Fuji HR-* is a phenomenal film once processing is dialed-in. Mind the halation!

Why use a fine grain developer for 8x10?