Inflation. I wouldn't count on Kodak. It's miraculous that it's still available.Hi,
I'm back from a break in 8x10" shooting and I've noticed fresh Velvia 50 availability has gotten even worse. There used to be the B.S. Kumar, Facebook group buy and Amazon.co.jp "trick" methods but those are all gone now. Even Yodobashi still lists it but it's passed the 500$ mark there, same as on fleabay.
Is it time to give up on this completely? I still have some old sheets but at an eyewatering 25$ / shot (+ development!) I can't ever imagine myself using this stuff. With Ektachrome now available via Canham it's tempting to just switch for good and support a film manufacturer that still cares about large format slide film.
Did I miss any cheaper ways of sourcing this stuff? What's the reason behind these continued price rises vs. Provia / Velvia 100?
I am a bit curious. How does one use or display an 8x10 slide?
I am a bit curious. How does one use or display an 8x10 slide?
Velvia 50 in 4x5.Devaluation of the dollar is going to make it worse in the future. I bought Velvia 50 from Kumar a few months ago. Isn't he still handling Velvia?
Ben Horne is the biggest user of 8x10 Velvia that I'm aware of and he scans/prints his film.
In speaking with Ben on line he was using the Japan Amazon approach for awhile. I think 4x5er Alan Brock came up with that idea originally. However, I've noticed Ben uses more and more Provia these days. I've used V-50 in MF & LF for years and could get decent results by remaining with one film media. Sadly, that is becoming almost out of the question with the additional hurdles every year. If anyone has cracked the code on the vacillation in the products let us know......Ben Horne is the biggest user of 8x10 Velvia that I'm aware of and he scans/prints his film.
In speaking with Ben on line he was using the Japan Amazon approach for awhile. I think 4x5er Alan Brock came up with that idea originally. However, I've noticed Ben uses more and more Provia these days. I've used V-50 in MF & LF for years and could get decent results by remaining with one film media. Sadly, that is becoming almost out of the question with the additional hurdles every year. If anyone has cracked the code on the vacillation in the products let us know......
I am a bit curious. How does one use or display an 8x10 slide?
Yep, I recall those days years back when I'd do some back to backs with various products. Now its down to whatever gets exposed at the time is my "right" choice these days....Choice is a good thing, if you can afford it!
Switch to 8x10 Ektachrome 100 if you can get it there.
I am a bit curious. How does one use or display an 8x10 slide?
But there's no blue ball and chain like old E64, or any other out of proportion color bias for that matter. It's a really good product.
Inflation. I wouldn't count on Kodak. It's miraculous that it's still available.
Ben Horne is the biggest user of 8x10 Velvia that I'm aware of and he scans/prints his film.
Check out the movie "Funny Face". There is a scene in the publisher's office where Fred Astaire brings in a stack of 8x10 trannies, certainly Kodachrome. On the desk is an easel style light table designed to fit three 8x10's side by side. It's enough to bring tears to your eyes.
Switch to 8x10 Ektachrome 100 if you can get it there. It won't save you any money - still gonna be about $30 a shot even here with processing - but it's reproduces better and has a higher quality Estar base.
But there can be a temptation to scale back to 5x7 at half the cost; and Keith Canham might be able to get a custom cut of that in Ektachrome if there's enough interest.
I have no idea why someone like Ben Horne would prefer Velvia, especially for work in the Southwest, when its inability to handle the extreme contrasts is a real liability.
The latest round of Ektachrome seems to be their best balanced ever, and their quality control has been very tight for quite awhile now. I've carefully tested it, and the color temp balance appears to be spot on at 5500K official "Daylight".
The photographers still using 8x10 transparancy films are seemingly those still in the belief that transparency film is the better choice to deliver to a print shop or an advertizing agency. Of course one can display a tranparancy also on a light table or at a wall in a light box, or even free hanging with an opalescent backing. But again, here a print-film of same size would work too.
Drew: I scan Velvia. But I don't try to mach the color of the chrome when I digitally process the scans. When the color shows "right" on the screen so my eyes are satisfied, that's it. Why should I match what some probably dead Japanese engineer decided 50 years ago the color palette he liked when he formulated Velvia 50? I'm the "artist." of my pictures, not him. When I scan, I don't check to see if I matched the original Velvia colors. Having said that, I like starting with the Velvia colors and let the colors come up more or less "normal". When I had 16x20 enlargements printed 25 years ago of my Velvia 50 medium format, the pro lab shot an internegative 4x5 and printed that on I think R paper? (not sure). Wouldn't the lab have had latitude of how the colors printed even with chemical printing? How about with Cibachromes? So were the colors matched then chemically either?How about not being scanned at all, and printed otherwise? Scanners were an afterthought. New Ektachrome sheets have a certain mico-texture overcoat in common with Kodak's current color neg sheet films that is claimed to improve scanning. I find it helpful is reducing Newton ring risk in optical enlargement. But dye-wise, all of this represents a parallel evolution of particular refinements which apply to color reproduction in general, not necessarily the ability to post-correct errors by restructuring curves and saturation afterwards. If something is actually there it can be retrieved fully darkroom style too. Bu if it's something make-believe digitially added, well, I don't personally consider that to be photography at all, at least in the blatant sense one encounters such nonsense nowadays. I like being confined within the specific hue and contrast signatures of specific films. In that respect, choice is nice.
That's good advice. Whenever I adjust saturation, contrast, curves, etc., I try not to overdo it. I'll even back off a little just in case. My theory is I don't want people to think it was photoshopped by overdoing anything. I want them to look at a natural landscape picture and say that it actually could have looked like that when I was there. Of course with Velvia, that's often hard to do. For example, of the two samples above, I think the first is more natural. The second is more saturated and contrasty, although by itself, people may like it more that way.Hi Alan. There is absolutely no color photographic medium which reproduces things exactly as our eye sees them. Digital printing is no exception. Every film and print medium has its own idiosyncrasies. The whole point is to thoughtfully understand these, and like any good illusionist, render a personal impression of reality which seems convincing at some level. Most labs were on the clock and had to make compromises. Internegative results were among the worst in this respect. I know what is involved in making very high quality internegs, and it's a lot of work. If I were to offer this as a service to others, I'd realistically have to charge ten times as much as the commercial labs did, maybe way more than that. As per Cibachrome, the dyes were geared to fade-resistance and matching dye-destruction chemistry. Results could be stunning; but again, if one wanted optimal results, you began with a chrome that made sense for the characteristics of the medium itself. Ciba was indeed quite idiosyncratic with respect to color reproduction, but no worse than current inherent inkjet flaws, just different. Modern chromogenic RA4 papers are better balanced, but color neg film itself has a lot of odd characteristics, depending on what prime usages a particular film has been engineered to do best. So just pick what you enjoy doing, do it well, and don't worry about it.
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