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8x10 Frustration

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photomc

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Jul 20, 2003
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Suffering a bit of 8x10 Frustration. The old 8x10 Korona I have, has started to get off track (on one side) when I rack the bellows out (at least it seems to have just started - I may just be more aware of it). After working with a while, I can get it back so the front standard is parallel to the back, but today had it out and it was off again. Have checked the gears and the track and do not see a problem there. Anyone have any suggestions on what to look for as a cause...or better yet how to keep it from happening? Is this just part of having one of these older cameras that everyone lives with?

Strange, this does not happen with the B&J 5x7, but then the front standard on it is fixed and the rear moves for focus. Not a BIG problem, just frustrating some times.

TIA
 
Very hard to diagnose with out being there and not being familiar with the Korona. My only suggestion is to watch the front standard very closely as you rack the bellows back and forth to see where it is jumping off. Also, try touching the front standard lightly with a finger as you rack. You can pick up some very slight disturbances that way. This may also give you a big clue as to what's going on.
 
My B&J 8x10 has the same problem. It happens when the gears go past the fold on the bed as it is racked out to focus. I've just gotten in the habit of checking when I roll it out. Usually, once past the gap, things stay in the right place. To fix it, I roll out all the way and then check alignment as it rolls back in. I try to watch to keep it parallel, that, or you have some built in swing for those long shots of fence lines. Good luck, tim
 
Ditto with noseoil. I've had a number of older wood cameras and most of them exhibited this. It just got second nature to me to watch closely as it crossed the fold in the bed. If it is out of line, just move it back there and apply a little helpful pressure. I've heard that it is actually friction on the wooden parts, not the gears/track , but I got so used to it that I've never pursued it with any effort.

Cheers,
Richard
 
It sounds like the metal bracket that holds the front standard to the rail has become loose. Just a little slack and it will skip. I have four Kodak 2D's and two Seneca cameras and I have to be careful when going over the gap between the racks. It's the design that's the problem eventually the mechanics of the camera wears from weight and use. Try with and without the lens attached.

Curt
 
I have it also on my B&J 8x10 seems pretty not only a B&J illness. I find out it helps a bit if you transport it on booth sides and give the similar speed to the knobs will help a bit!
But I have mor fun then with my Sinar P outside!
 
Check out this thread where I dealt with the same problem myself.



(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 
Thank You!! Great stuff, Guys!! At least I know that it is a common problem, will have to see what can be done to keep it on an eve path...somewhere I get the feeling it has gotten out of alignment and once it is back it will not be as bad a problem.
 
just to reiterate mike... I have the same problem with my Empire State 8x10 when I use the 15" Commercial Ektar on it (main lens I use right now) and when focusing on things fairly close. sometimes I use those little quick grip clamps to assist in "locking" it into position.
 
scootermm said:
just to reiterate mike... I have the same problem with my Empire State 8x10 when I use the 15" Commercial Ektar on it (main lens I use right now) and when focusing on things fairly close. sometimes I use those little quick grip clamps to assist in "locking" it into position.

When these cameras were NEW the photographers used clamps and rods and dowels and stuff to make them steady.



.
 
I have this problem with my NFS 'dorff, but only if I rack it WAY out. The only lens I have is a 300mm, so I usually don't have to worry about it. Dean
 
Just a quick thought, My korona jumps the track now and then, I found in my case, the pinion gears (one on each side) are spring tensioned, If I happen to push up or down on the knob while trying to quickly rack in or out it lifts the pinion out of the track/rack. If conditions are right, it skips a few teeth out of alignment.

Charlie...........................
 
Why anyone ever doubts the help of this community is beyond me....Great hints from everyone. Thank you one and all...racking out to fast will jump the tracks, now that is a good possibilty Charlie, while not sure what too fast is...bet you are on to something. Will reset the tracks (again) and give it a go. Just proof that LF Really does make you slow down - :D
 
Might want to try the shims in the groove the shaft sits in, a pretty easy fix.
 
One of my V8 Deardorffs was susceptible to jumping tracks when I got it. The rear standard brackets do have adjustments on these cameras.

When I had the 12X20 Korona, it did not have the problem. However, in addition to shimming the pinion, I believe that the two racks can be shimmed too. It would require removing the rack but that should be fairly straight forward. Shimming the rack will raise it in relation to the rail whereas shimming the pinion shaft will lower the pinions toward the racks. Either should do the job.
 
My old Korona used to get off track also. It would happen when I was racking it from the base plate onto the rail. I found if I was carefull when I made the crossover it wouldn't happen. Also helps to focus with both hands.

Finally, yes, it is part of the joy of working with an old Korona. Best. Shawn
 
Shawn Dougherty said:
My old Korona used to get off track also. It would happen when I was racking it from the base plate onto the rail. I found if I was carefull when I made the crossover it wouldn't happen. Also helps to focus with both hands.

Finally, yes, it is part of the joy of working with an old Korona. Best. Shawn


Would focus with both hand....if I could, but this baby only has focus know on the right side (must not have had a left hand model :smile: ). Know what you mean, the B&J DOES have focus knobs on both sides, the Korona is the earlier variation, no front shift, with the focus adjustments (front and rear) on the right hand side. Hey, it's old and fussy sometimes...but with the info I have gotten here should be able to get things back to normal (or at least close). I suspect that this may be one of the reasons it gets off track with pressure coming from one side. Will just have to remember to treat it very nice when racking out the bellows at first.
 
Just put your thumb behind the standard and help it along as you rack it past the hinge.
 
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