Many people use a guillotine style paper cutter, and put thin cardstock stops onto the bed of the paper cutter in the light, so they can line up film in the darkroom against the cardstock stops.
That's how I'd do it, and it is how I cut my practice film to learn to load the film holders.
Other people have a slider-type cutter, where the bed is stationary and the cutting blade travels along a sliding track.
Roller cutter with a stop in an appropriate place. Guillotine works, too, but be careful/make sure it has the obligatory safety features. My Dahle roller cutter has a metal bed that I stick magnetic strips on by means of guides.
When I cut down film I used a rotary cutter and used a couple of layers of that Dynamo label tape to make guides/stops; worked quite well for feeling in the dark.
A roller cutter that appropriately clamps down on what you're cutting is slightly better than a guillotine cutter, since the latter can actually pull at the film as you cut it and make the strip end up slightly more narrow than you want.
I leave it in 8x10 and I cut a broken darkside I had in half so I can expose one side at a time. Saves me from needing a custom back or film holders, then if necessary, you can cut it in daylight after developed.
Roller cutter, and a paper punch to notch the un-notched half. I use IR goggles, you can see perfectly, but I can't feel properly anymore.
Just make sure you can tell the emulsion side once it's cut.
Nightfox Swift night vision goggles, like new, used one time to test with film, they work just fine with color and B&W [just not with IR film]. Tested with both color and B&W, open time 5 minutes plus open tray development for both, no issues. In the box: carry case, head strap/harness...