8X10 Close-up shooting

3 Columns

A
3 Columns

  • 6
  • 7
  • 148
Couples

A
Couples

  • 4
  • 0
  • 112
Exhibition Card

A
Exhibition Card

  • 6
  • 4
  • 144

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
199,062
Messages
2,785,628
Members
99,792
Latest member
sepd123
Recent bookmarks
0

padraigm

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
100
Format
Medium Format
HI all,

I have read some past articles regarding this topic, but I still have a few questions.

I have an 8X10 Calumet (the beast) with a 350mm lens. I also have a collection of 4X5 lenses from 90mm to 210mm. Am I right in understanding that if I use say a 90mm or 135mm lens I can get "close" to a 1:1 ratio? Will I get better results using enlarging lenses? I am assuming movements will be very limited. And finally, is there a lensboard adapter that I can use that can make it easier to mount my 4X5 lenses or do I need to get separate boards for this?

Thanks in advance for any input :smile:
 

Rick A

Subscriber
Joined
Mar 31, 2009
Messages
9,947
Location
Laurel Highlands
Format
8x10 Format
I'll address the adapter board, there is a fellow on epay that makes all sorts of lensboards and adapter boards for a very reasonable price. I payed $30 for an adapter for Calumet 4x4 boards onto a Cambo 6-3/16 square. I believe he can handle it for you.
 

Ian C

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2009
Messages
1,255
Format
Large Format
Any lens of focal length f needs to be moved by the distance f forward of its infinity focus position to attain 1:1 magnification. With that in mind, it requires less extended bellows to get 1:1 magnification with a shorter lens than a longer one.

At 1:1 the shorter the focal length, the closer the lens must be to the subject. The film-to-subject distance is 4f at 1:1 magnification.

Enlarging lenses are optimized for close focusing distance, but generally don’t mount into a shutter (although it might be possible).

Depending on your purposes, a standard lens might give good results in macro use. There are also specialized macro lenses for close focus work on a view camera. They can be expensive, but are a good choice if you must do such work routinely.

If you only do macro shooting occasionally, you can likely get decent results with one of the lenses you already own.
 

ic-racer

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
16,556
Location
USA
Format
Multi Format
HI all,

I have read some past articles regarding this topic, but I still have a few questions.

I have an 8X10 Calumet (the beast) with a 350mm lens. I also have a collection of 4X5 lenses from 90mm to 210mm. Am I right in understanding that if I use say a 90mm or 135mm lens I can get "close" to a 1:1 ratio? Will I get better results using enlarging lenses? I am assuming movements will be very limited. And finally, is there a lensboard adapter that I can use that can make it easier to mount my 4X5 lenses or do I need to get separate boards for this?

Thanks in advance for any input :smile:

You image circle will double and the field of view will be one-half. So, at 1:1, a 180mm for a 4x5 camera will give you the same angle of view you have with your 350 and will cover 8x10.

The 90 and 135 should also work. There are lensboard adapters. Check SK Grimes.
 

Nicholas Lindan

Advertiser
Advertiser
Joined
Sep 2, 2006
Messages
4,248
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Format
Multi Format
If you are using 4x5 lenses then they should be reversed for macro work at magnifications greater than 1:1. You can usually reverse the front and back elements - keeping the shutter/aperture on the outside of the camera. For extreme magnification 50mm enlarging lenses work superbly, again reversed, covering a nominal 24x36mm (44mm image circle) for an ~8x magnification with ~400mm of bellows draw.

In general, for reversed lenses and high magnifications pick an enlarging lens made for a negative size that is about the same as your subject size. If the subject is 2-3" then an 80mm lens is appropriate, if the subject is less than 1cm then use a lens from an 8mm movie camera...

Lens boards for occasional use can be cobbled up from black foam-core, cardboard, thin plywood, mounting board and duct-tape. A press-fit is good-enough to hold the lens - use a bit of string as a safety to keep the lens from hitting the floor if dislodged. Some flat-black spray paint can light-proof white foam-core and can be used on the inside of the lens (card)board to cut down on flair.

Lots of light can be the order of the day with large magnifications. I drape the darkcloth around the lens and the cobbled-up lens board to mitigate any possible light leaks from the bright lights.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

LJH

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
724
Location
Australia
Format
ULarge Format
I'll address the adapter board, there is a fellow on epay that makes all sorts of lensboards and adapter boards for a very reasonable price. I payed $30 for an adapter for Calumet 4x4 boards onto a Cambo 6-3/16 square. I believe he can handle it for you.

Avoid these if possible. They're rubbish.

He uses very, very poor timber. The one that I have ended up unusable within a week or two as it warped beyond belief. Couldn't get a light tight seal.

This was after he sent the wrong one to me (apparently mixed it up with one on his work bench).
 
OP
OP

padraigm

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
100
Format
Medium Format
Thank you so much everyone for the suggestions. Very much appreciated.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom