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8x10 B&W Film Processing.

Either in trays of Harvey's 777 with approximately 10 secs. of gentle agitation every 30 secs. or semi-stand in tubes filled with Pyrocat HD diluted 1.5:1:175. The desired interpretation of the subject matter determines which method I use.
 
Keith Tapscott. said:
A lot of replies seem to favour drum processing. I`ve never heard of Rollo-Pyro, is that designed for rotary processing?
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Rollo-Pyro and Pyrocat-HD were both designed for drum processing. As far as I know, both work well. Conventional developers, like D-76, also work.
 
I use Jobo tanks on a Unicolor motor because I have no darkroom. I develop all my sheet film that way. I used to use D-76, but now use Pyrocat-HD (2:2:100).
 
Trays for 8x10" and larger, 2-8 sheets per batch. I find I get more uniform results and fewer agitation artifacts, like increased edge density due to turbulence caused from the sides of the tray, by always processing at least two sheets than by processing one at a time.
 
Jobo CPP with 3005 expert tank, DDX, RolloPyro, Pyrocat HD...relatively easy, negatives almost always perfect in that any mistakes are mine, not the fault of the machine! As others have stated, one should be careful of the weight of the tank so as to avoid burning out the motor. Thus, with the 3005 I have never developed more then two sheets at a time which keeps the volume of solution(s) in a reasonable range, and the weight of the tank reasonable as well. I develop my 4x5 in the relevant sized expert tank as well with the same precautions, and the same results.

Incidentally, I feel somewhat better using the tanks with Pyro based developers...safety issues are always on my mind. Yes, I do know that Pyro in solution is "safe", and that gloves will furnish protection while one's hands are sloshing about. Nevertheless, call me overly cautious. Retired MD who has seen just a bit too much to be complacent....
 
HP5+, FP4, Efke 25 all in BTZS tubes. Sometimes tray, one at a time. Pyrocat-HD is my main developer. ID-11 is crappy with HP5+ (IMO). All films are also great in D-76 1+1 and Xtol 1+1.
 
I`ve never heard of Rollo-Pyro, is that designed for rotary processing?
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I used it years ago. It's PMK modified for rotary processing. I didn't care too much for it and have settled for pyrocat-HD as it can be used for tray or rotatary.
 
Andrew O'Neill said:
HP5+, FP4, Efke 25 all in BTZS tubes. Sometimes tray, one at a time. Pyrocat-HD is my main developer. ID-11 is crappy with HP5+ (IMO). All films are also great in D-76 1+1 and Xtol 1+1.
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How come ID-11 is lousy with HP5+ and all films are great with D-76 1+1?:confused:
 
Andrew O'Neill said:
HP5+, FP4, Efke 25 all in BTZS tubes. Sometimes tray, one at a time. Pyrocat-HD is my main developer. ID-11 is crappy with HP5+ (IMO). All films are also great in D-76 1+1 and Xtol 1+1.
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You obviously didn't know that ID11 and D76 are the same formula.
 
TMX in Perceptol 1:4 in Jobo CPP2 in 1520 UniTank+1530 TankModul one sheet at a time. I have the 3005 Drum. It works fine, but it is big, clumsy, and doesn't allow for different development times (unless you develop one sheet at a time).
 
Shuffle in open trays, because it is so simple and works well.
 
Another vote for trays for b/w sheet film. Don't use ultra cheesy ones, as they often have rough spots in the bottom that will make weird marks on the film base. Fine for paper, but not for film! Yes, I learned this myself...but it doesn't mean you have to!
 
I've been using the old print drum with ID-11. Two sheets at a time... because I can do it in the light and it seems to work... I always had scratches in trays.

I didn't know ID-11 and D-76 were the same.

-Rob
 
Deep tanks and the sheet-film on hangers in a cage. It has been a few years since I have been able to do it though, as have no darkroom sink that is big enough anymore...
 
Tray, 12 sheets at a time.
 
Tried 28xx drum but it is sometimes ok and sometimes not. Also, only one negative is perfect. Now trying tray -- all negative (up to 14 each time) are all looked even but scratch happes from time-to-time (possibly my skill plus use Shanghai GP3). I guess tray is better and the way to go for me.
 
For 5x7 and 8x10, Unicolor drum with a Uniroller. Pyrocat-HD. What's to mess up? Clean, simple, safe, reproducible. FP4+ has tremendous range with this developer. 4x5 I shoot APX100 and develop it in Wd2d+ in a Paterson System4 tank with inner tubes fitted.

tim in san jose
 
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I've made some good buds with the boys in NDT (non-destructive testing) at work and sneak in to use their x-ray processor when they're out to lunch or otherwise not using the equipment.

It does a really nice job - very fine grained, excellent contrast ratios, perhaps a bit harsh, but I can adjust for that.

Other than that, a JOBO 3001 drum or set of trays, both with Rodinal, a water stop and KodaFix.
 
I am having exact the same question. I still need to pick up the 8x10" camera but I am already trying to figure out how to best develop the film.
Trays seem more handy now as I am already used to that with paper and it means I don't have to blow a lot of money on a drum. I am just so paranoid in the dark
I noticed fewer diversity in developers used by people here in this thread...might be a coincidence but I assume I can still use my HC110 which I use all the time now with good, stable results..?
 
Tom Kershaw said:
Contrastique,

You should be able to use HC-110 or Ilfotec HC without a problem. I've developed 8"x10" Fomapan 100 sheet film in Ilfotec HC with good results.

Tom.
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Hey Tom,

Thanx for your answer. I couldn't imagine otherwise but it looked so suspicious only a few developers being mentioned
 
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