6x9 cameras

Aristotle80 · Oct 11, 2016

A lot of interesting talk about 6x9s and the folder option. I've seen a few German folders and fiddled with a couple of Agfa 6x9s. When I compared the German 6x9s with my Kodak Tourists, I found the German design was far more lightweight, compact, and elegant, but their light construction greatly worsened the problem of keeping the lens board parallel to the film plane. The Kodak Tourist is so tanklike, that lens board seems as firm as humanly possible in its orientation to the film. Finding one with a better lens design takes patience, but when you find a good one it's a keeper.

John Wiegerink · Oct 11, 2016

Aristotle80 said:
A lot of interesting talk about 6x9s and the folder option. I've seen a few German folders and fiddled with a couple of Agfa 6x9s. When I compared the German 6x9s with my Kodak Tourists, I found the German design was far more lightweight, compact, and elegant, but their light construction greatly worsened the problem of keeping the lens board parallel to the film plane. The Kodak Tourist is so tanklike, that lens board seems as firm as humanly possible in its orientation to the film. Finding one with a better lens design takes patience, but when you find a good one it's a keeper.

Yes, the Tourist cameras are simple, but effective. I think Kodak made the Tourist so that it could be had by almost any income level family. The cheapest model had a very spartan meniscus lens and shutter while the most expensive had a first rate Tessar style lens and syncro-800 shutter. Maybe you should have one of each? Dreamy shots from the simple meniscus lens and pro-shots from the more expensive Anastar(Tessar design) lens. If you think the Tourist is "tank-like" then the Monitor must be "battle ship-like". My Super Ikonta 531/2 is not flimsy by any means, but I do believe the Tourist or the Monitor would withstand a fall on a hard surface better than the Ikonta. Of course I'm not willing to test them to see which one wins.

Paul Howell · Oct 11, 2016

Tourister's were well made, I have the mid level all aluminium body, machine work is really good. It takes S VI filters and lens hood, for landscapes just set the lens to infinity. I good from an auction site and came with a case, great camera for travel, I carry mine when I shoot 4X5, use both Porta and Foma 200.

studiocarter · Oct 11, 2016

I have the Kodak Monitor newly fitted with a replacement bellows from England by Bald Mtn. That is the problem with Kodak folders, bad bellows. Not so the Zeiss.

John Wiegerink · Oct 11, 2016

studiocarter said:
I have the Kodak Monitor newly fitted with a replacement bellows from England by Bald Mtn. That is the problem with Kodak folders, bad bellows. Not so the Zeiss.

Yes, Kodak went through a period where they thought their "paper mache" bellows was actually better than leather or even leatherette and now we're paying the price for that. I have a a box full of new replacement bellows for older folding Kodak cameras and found one to fit my Monitor 620. Not the correct replacement, but you'd never know the difference. The one that was on it looked like the "Milky Way" when you shined a flashlight in it. When this camera is up and running 100% it's a pro-quality camera with a large negative and very portable.

prumpkah · Oct 14, 2016

Aristotle80 said:
A lot of interesting talk about 6x9s and the folder option. I've seen a few German folders and fiddled with a couple of Agfa 6x9s. When I compared the German 6x9s with my Kodak Tourists, I found the German design was far more lightweight, compact, and elegant, but their light construction greatly worsened the problem of keeping the lens board parallel to the film plane. The Kodak Tourist is so tanklike, that lens board seems as firm as humanly possible in its orientation to the film. Finding one with a better lens design takes patience, but when you find a good one it's a keeper.

Further to the above, I've had great luck with an Agfa Record III. Mine has an uncoupled rangefinder, Solinar (Tessar type) lens and Synchro-Compur shutter that goes to 1/500. Light and compact, and if you're patient you can get one in good working order (the bellows are generally good on this model) and still have enough change from $200 to buy some film. Haven't run into the dreaded lens board/film plane issue, but I can well imagine it, so choose carefully.

nosmok · Oct 15, 2016

The problem with the Agfas is their lens thread grease can freeze more solid than similarly aged concrete. I too have a Solinar folder but absolutely nothing I've tried has unfrozen the lens. I thought it was turning but it was only the knurled trim ring-- it was easier to push thru the holding force of 3 set screws than the hardened Agfa grease.

anthonylg · Nov 5, 2016

Hi everyone!

Just a little update as you all helped me very much. Finally i chose another solution, I found a revolving back on my RB67 that accepts 6x8 and bought a motorized 6x8 back. The only con is that i don't have all the frame in the finder but I can compose by looking at the scene and have the same frame size than with a gx680. It's not much larger but it's now 75mm large and I like it.
And finally, I found an Ercona with a Tessar T in great shape when I want something lighter and am just wandering, I'm quite happy about it

M. Axel Wikstrom · Nov 6, 2016

If you really want something different, and willing to learn how to use a view camera with its movements, ground glass focusing, etc., one of the 2x3 technical cameras would be my choice. An old Horsemen VH with one of the convertible lenses is a good combination (two lenses in one by removing one of the elements).

anthonylg · Nov 6, 2016

M. Axel Wikstrom said:
If you really want something different, and willing to learn how to use a view camera with its movements, ground glass focusing, etc., one of the 2x3 technical cameras would be my choice. An old Horsemen VH with one of the convertible lenses is a good combination (two lenses in one by removing one of the elements).

Yes, I really considered this camera, as well as a Mamiya press. But this system is too slow, for what I do I need sometimes to change lenses fastly or to take a few pictures in a short time so it didn't really fit. And it's such a pleasure to frame with the RB67's viewfinder...

Neil Poulsen · Nov 10, 2016

MAubrey said:
If you want 6x9 and want to change lenses, you're basically limited to something like a Mamiya Press camera.

Another recommendation for Mamiya Press. I would get the Universal version. Well designed, thoughtful system.

MAubrey · Nov 11, 2016

Neil Poulsen said:
Another recommendation for Mamiya Press. I would get the Universal version. Well designed, thoughtful system.

Trouble is, once you look through the system, you'll want both a Super 23 body and a Universal body so you can have the benefits of both!

Neil Poulsen · Nov 20, 2016

MAubrey said:
If you want 6x9 and want to change lenses, you're basically limited to something like a Mamiya Press camera.

Not the sharpest lenses, but great camera system for hand-held. I guess perhaps that, it being a press camera, Mamiya didn't see the need to including fantastic optics.

I have a relatively complete Mamaya Universal Press system, includ9ng multiple lenses. For example, it makes a nice vacation system. It was designed as handheld, so being able to take snapshot type photos is its forte.

At the same time, one can mount it on a tripod, use an accessory ground glass for composing and focusing, and engage in fine art photography. One nice thing, the Mamiya press system has interchangeable backs, so switching films is easy. Mamiya backs are known to hold film very flat. They also come in different formats, 6x6, 6x7, 6x9. With the G accessory back, the Mamiya Universal can accept Graflex, medium format backs, or even Mamiya RB67 backs. (It will not accept Horseman, nor Wista backs.)

Actually, it's possible to get two standout lenses with this system. A bit expensive, the 100mm f2.8 is supposed to be very sharp. As a Biogon design, the same can be said of the 50mm Mamiya Press lens that covers 6x9.

prumpkah · Jan 17, 2017

nosmok said:
The problem with the Agfas is their lens thread grease can freeze more solid than similarly aged concrete. I too have a Solinar folder but absolutely nothing I've tried has unfrozen the lens. I thought it was turning but it was only the knurled trim ring-- it was easier to push thru the holding force of 3 set screws than the hardened Agfa grease.

True, a not uncommon problem. The grease Agfa used can polymerize with age. But totally remediable, either by a camera tech or else a DIY project for the dextrous and stout-hearted. I've come across step-by-step details online. It may be necessary to use a hairdryer to loosen things up before disassembly for cleaning with solvents followed by re-lubing. Requires more bravery than force. My Agfa Record III is buttery smooth and works a treat.

darinwc · Jan 17, 2017

Love to hear the solution for that.. Ive tried solvents up to acetone and nothing has got it unstuck.

prumpkah · Jan 18, 2017

darinwc said:
Love to hear the solution for that.. Ive tried solvents up to acetone and nothing has got it unstuck.

Here's some, among many (google is your friend):

http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/repair/frozenfix.html

https://web2.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/AnscAgfa.html (scroll down the page)

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=94307

I recall a useful step-by-step on David Richert's site, referred to above, but I can't seem to find it again. It seems the key to using solvents such as naphtha is soaking over a period of time. Take precautions, needless to say. I'd be leary of using acetone, as it may dissolve things you don't want dissolved.

6x9 cameras

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