5x7 and unicolor drum development

kaiyen · Apr 16, 2006

Hi all,
First - yes, I have done some searches. I have found a number of threads on using a unicolor drum for developing large format film. I just got my hands on a roller with both 11x14 and 8x10 _print_ drums, so I got the right stuff. However, I have some questions, still. I'm not quite able to figure out the answers from all the search results. For instance:

-how much liquid is actually required (for either drum)? I'm reading that for the 8x10 you need a minimum of 60ml (!) but that you can go up to 200 ml and it'll still just barely go over the edge and touch the film. So you should put more...in there...right? Obviously I can put some water in there and see how much it covers but...what am I looking for? Should it completely cover the film as it's on the bottom?

-I've heard that Rodinal in particular oxidizes too quickly to be used in rotary development. Is this true? What about other developers including ID-11, Microphen, DDX, and FX-50 (just what I happen to have on stock)?

thanks,
allan

josephaustin · Apr 16, 2006

Not, true about the rodinal, in my experiance. I have used the 8x10 unicolor drums, and 8x10 besselers with great success.

I have also had a bad experiance with an 8x10 unicolor that leaked. I use the same amount of liquid that I use for 35 mm in my paterson tank.

The rotation keeps the film under the developer. I also use an old besseler motor base, and 10 percent less time on development.

A 2minute presoak is also advisible. Good luck, the hardest part is getting the film in the drum properly so that it does not come unseated while developing.

Konical · Apr 16, 2006

Good Evening, Allan,

Joseph's comments above are largely reflective of my own experience. I use mostly either T-Max or HC-110 as developers, so I can't comment on Rodinal. Normally, I use 10 to 12 ounces of developer in an 8 x 10 drum (no need to be cheap when the amounts are so small anyway), but I suspect that 5 or 6 ounces would probably be quite adequate, since the drum makers usually specified very small quantities (3 oz.???) for color print processing. I would shy away from anything over about 12 ounces, because the weight of the solution during rotation might, in very rare circumstances, dislodge a sheet from its position in the drum.

Konical

kaiyen · Apr 16, 2006

Thanks for the tips/confirmations.

I thought these drums are meant to hold the prints as they are? Why would the film not stay seated? Well, I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I bring the drums and roller home.

allan

lee · Apr 16, 2006

Allan,

I use a Unicolor drum and a reversing motor base for my 4x5 5x7 and 8x10 film I use pyrocat and I use about 500ml of chem

lee\c

kaiyen · Apr 16, 2006

Thanks lee. Is that an 8x10 drum (I assume so)? 500ml is good with me. Right now, I can do the "taco" method with window screens and I need 1000ml or so for just 2 sheets. But since I can fit, I think, 2 5x7's in an 8x10 drum that makes a lot more sense. Much more economical.

I might also try pyrocat down the road. But not yet. I have my times for Rodinal, and would like to stick to them.

allan

Ted Harris · Apr 16, 2006

I've been processing 4x5 through 8x10 and 120 roll film in Jobo rotary processors for well over ten years using Rodinal without any problems.

Konical · Apr 17, 2006

Good Morning, Allan,

"Why would the film not stay seated?"

After processing thousands of 4 x 5 sheets in my Chromega drums, I have found that displacement of the film is an extremely rare occurence. The only time I can recall experiencing it was with Kodak Technical Pan film; that particular emulsion is (was) on an exceptionally thin, flexible base. During processing on ONE occasion, ONE sheet of Tech Pan became dislodged and floated free within the drum. Placing TP slightly askew between the guide rods in subsequent batches helped to lock it adequately in place. With other, stiffer, films, I can't recall ever encountering any similar difficulty. I would strongly suspect, however, that using relatively large quantities of solution would more likely lead to the problem.

Konical

seadrive · Apr 17, 2006

The problem is not that the film will come "unseated" during processing (at least, I've never had that problem). The (potential) problem is that the film was not properly inserted between the grooves when loaded. After loading a sheet, I just give it a little tug toward the center of the drum, to make sure it's securely held.

I use XTOL 1:3 (100 ml developer + 300 ml water) + 4 ml of Rodinal (1:100 dilution) in an 8x10 Unicolor drum, with a 1 minute water presoak. Works well for me, but I'm sure there are any number of other combinations of stuff that would also be fine.

I think you could probably get away with 300 ml of solution, but be sure to check the developer's fact sheet to find the minimum recommended developer for 35-40 square inches of film.

DannL · Apr 17, 2006

My unicolor drum has an internal "fill cup" and I simply fill it an then tip the unit to disperse chems. Your appears to be different than mine. I have seen them though. Here's my take one determinig the "unknown".

Remove one end of drum. Place the drum in a tub. Fill the tub with water to an appropriate level for the drum. Replace the end cap on the drum while it is still in the water. Dump the contents of the drum in a measured container. Use that as your amount of chems.

tim atherton · Apr 19, 2006

For the Unicolor drums with the grooves to hold the paper/fim, the idea is that the max amount of developer used doesn't tocuh the film until it starts to rotate i.e. the dev sits in about the bottom 1/3 while the film is held in the top 2/3 roughly.

But there are different unicolor drums.

plenty here

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/

tim atherton · Apr 19, 2006

BTW - you use the drum in a rolling fashion - either on a base or by hand - not cocktail shaker style

5x7 and unicolor drum development

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