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I use a 6D, upgraded a few years ago from the original 5D. The 6D is an excellent camera. I've heard that it often served as wedding photographers backup camera, based on the hand-wringing and gnashing of teeth that occurred when the 6D2 was released without a second card slot. The 5D2 is, by all accounts, an underwhelming camera by modern standards.
You'll be happy with the 6D, believe me.
Well, I'm a fairly conservative shooter, I don't go above 6400, and I don't pixel-peep. So I can't really say.
The AF is kind of behind the times, but as I'm from the old school I use the center point only and use the focus and recompose method. Nothing like finding after the fact that the camera focused on the wrong object. But then I still shoot on olde manual focus film cameras.
My style of shooting isn't by any means universal; what works for me may not work for others. The 6D is no speed demon, but it's a very capable camera. Image quality is excellent .
I've owned both the 5DII and the 6D, though not at the same time. I still have the 6D. I've used it extensively with the 40mm pancake and the 16-35/4 L, just a bit with other lenses. I never quite bonded with the 5DII, for reasons I can't entirely reconstruct in distant hindsight, while the 6D became my comfortable-old-shoe DSLR, especially with the 40.
I've used the 6D regularly up to ISO 3200 for monochrome OOC jpgs and raw conversions to monochrome. Sure, I've worked many files from it in color too; there isn't any camera I'm comfortable with for color up that high. But that's my taste, and I have all sorts of hangups with digital color anyway, so I'm not necessarily a good guide for those whose perception isn't warped in that way. As I'm sure you've read all over the web, at base ISO the sensor doesn't have anywhere near the DR of competing models with Sony sensors, or compared with the latest 5DIV. It's true. But I've used the camera primarily hand-held, at ISO 400 and above; at high ISO - say, 800 or above - the 6D gives up very little if anything compared to other cameras. So in that sense one can think of it as a relatively economical full frame camera optimized for higher ISO. And compared to my 18MP APS-C Canons - 60D, SL1, M - the 6D files are far more robust beyond ISO 400.
I use only the center AF point; that one works well even in very low light. It's actually a great strength of the camera compared to other entry-level full-frame DSLRs. But I don't shoot sports or other fast-changing stuff where one might need the fancier auto-song-and-dance AF systems of the latest 5D and 1Dx cameras.
The sound and feel of the shutter/mirror action are also more refined and less obtrusive compared to earlier EOS full frame cameras, and there's a quiet mode that's even less obtrusive.
Whatever you end up with: good luck, and enjoy!
PS: You didn't ask, but FWIW the 40 is outstanding value for money, and a fine lens even not considering the price. It's also so small, it makes the 6D both easier to pack and carry and much less intimidating for subjects than with a big honker of a zoom mounted. (Yes, I know the 35-135 USM is relatively non-honker-ish as zooms go...)
Given the 2 choices I chose the 5D2.
Checking the specs and they are very similar. My tendency is to go for an older but higher end camera rather than a lower end camera but newer.Any reason or just a feeling?
Checking the specs and they are very similar. My tendency is to go for an older but higher end camera rather than a lower end camera but newer.
Google P.O.T.N. You'll find many threads 5DMII vs 6D.
5DMKII is nowhere near to 6D high ISO range. I owned 5DMKII after letting old 5D go and MKII was next to lemon after 5D. Crappy AF, muted colors. Never bothered to spend money for 6D. Still too bulky for me. I prefer 500D with flash for low light and AF.
But my daughter is using another (refurb) 5DMKII with L zoom lens IS and 400 series flash for her professional work. It was affordable and it works for her.
Think that 35-135 will cut the mustard until I can get a 24-70 2.8 or something of the kind? I know it does not pair well with my crop but works excellent with my EOS A2.
I'm also not adverse to throwing some Nikon, Pentax or Olympus glass onto the 'ol rebel. Can I safely do this with a FF?
Also, any of you good folk install magic lantern on one of these cameras?
P.s. I've not warmed yet to a 40. I dunno, the focal length just doesn't it for me.
Oren Grad said:Watch out, here be dragons! At least on the 5D series, there are many combinations that are not safe because of the mirror colliding with various hardware on the lenses.
I shoot the vast majority on Ye Olde Manule Cameras. I even shoot on some scale focus cameras so I'm not overly overly dependent on autofocus if push comes to shove.
Keep in mind that digital cameras have awful viewfinders for manual focus. Forget focusing using anything with a minimal DOF.
That is likely an overstated issue.
While true that dSLR focusing screens are (from the factory) best with lenses f/2.8 and slower, many models of Canon dSLR do have more precise focusing screens available for improved manual focus precision with faster apertures.
My understanding is that Canon discontinued making their cameras with interchangeable screens. Check carefully with any specific model before purchasing.
Both of the cameras that the OP is considering - 5DII and 6D - have interchangeable screens and accept the Canon Eg-S "Super Precision Matte" screen.
As already pointed out, the 6D is far superior to the ancient 5DII for less noise at high ISO
- plus the fact that the 5DII cannot get up to the high ISO of the 6D (25600 standard, 102800 expanded) ,
- plus there is the fact that 6D will focus in low light the 5DII cannot even focus in.
That is likely an overstated issue. I know that Canon puts mechanical stuff on the back end of EF-S lenses, but third party lens manufacturers do not! I have a Tokina 11-16mm lens (which is for sale) and I inspected it, and found NOTHING protruding back beyond the lens mount itself. I mounted it on a 5D body, set 11mm FL, and then successfully fired the camera with zero interference between the lens and the reflex mirror.
To the OP consideration of manual glass on a Canon dSLR, I have confirmed on several occasions over the past 13 years -- with 5 different models including with my Canon 7DII -- that there are stopped down metering errors that occur with manual focus lenses. So the best thing to do is meter with lens wide open, then adjust f/stop and shutter speed to settings for shooting. Otherwise there are metering errors, where the f/stop - shutter changes are NOT in step with each other through the aperture range!
Keep in mind that digital cameras have awful viewfinders for manual focus. Forget focusing using anything with a minimal DOF.
I posted here because I trust the (former) APUG user base opinions.
You're not much of a fan of Canon colors I take it?
Former APUG was strictly film based. It is like asking about car among horse riders.
I have no idea why you are taking it this way... Never had Nikon DSLRs. I'm using same Canon DSLR since 2008. And had 5D and 5DMKII.
Canon 5D has best colors and rendering I ever seen among DSLRs.
But here is two problems with colors.
First - is old USM lenses. And then old EF-S lenses. Like 18-55 IS. EF-S mount has now great version of this lens and I'm using 24 EF-S pancake.
With this newer EF-S lenses colors are fine. You not going to get colors this good with old USM lenses.
L, this is where colors are great and only better with modern Cosina Zeiss ZE lenses.
But they are MF, not AF.
And this is where APUG shows its age. Old film era folks talks about special focusing screens. It is outdated (cumbersome to install), limiting and not effective.
Instead, Canon DSLR supports AF point detection with Zeiss ZE lens mount and with special adapters for another lenses.
Once lens is in focus, you'll get AF point confirmation. And ZE allows to operate aperture normally.
Another outdated film talk about DSLR is how great old film manual lenses are. And they are not. They just clunky and too weak for digital sensors.
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