• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up
Resource icon

510-Pyro

Overview Discussion
PeterB said:
In the absence of any replies to my question, I might re-phrase it....

Can people who are using or have used 510-Pyro let me know if you are happy with the shadow detail in your prints ?

regards
Peter
Click to expand...

I've been reasonably satisfied with my shadow detail. For references sake, my main film is APX 100 and Tri-X 400 in 35mm format.
 
Shadow detail is usually more of an exposure issue than a developer issue (not that either is irrelevant). I'm not a 510-pyro user, but if I were having shadow problems with any developer, I'd test with the same film rated at a lower speed before giving up on the developer.
 
I've used 510 Pyro, although not extensively. When Jay was online, we swapped some information, and I usually tested lower ISO than he did - thus, I needed more exposure to get shadow detail that I was satisfied with.

I have an opinion that could be right or wrong. Looking at Jay's prints on his site, he took portraits in which he seems to be interested in the higher values (skin tones.) He seems to let the shadows in the background fall away. I think for this reason, he didn't value the shadow detail as much as I did, and thus was able to use shorter exposures.

When I use more exposure, I've been happy with the shadow detail. I've used mainly Efke PL100 and Forte 400 with this developer.
juan
 
I used Fred Pickers film speed test and shoot 120 tri-x 400 at it's rated speed. I actually had more of a problem getting the development time down (long enough for good contrast)for my color head.

Shadows have been fine.

Mike
 
mikebarger said:
I used Fred Pickers film speed test and shoot 120 tri-x 400 at it's rated speed. I actually had more of a problem getting the development time down (long enough for good contrast)for my color head.

Shadows have been fine.

Mike
Click to expand...

Thanks everybody for your answers.

My main reason for enquiring about the shadows was to see if other folks had experienced similar problems to those detailed by Craig, where his shadows were (there was a url link here which no longer exists) and his (ED) curve showed (there was a url link here which no longer exists).
Because I have never made up my own dev. before, I didn't want to go to the trouble of buying the chemicals, mixing it up and using 510-Pyro if it had inherent flaws.

regards
Peter
 
Last edited by a moderator:
PeterB said:
Can people who are using or have used 510-Pyro let me know if you are happy with the shadow detail in your prints ?

regards
Peter
Click to expand...

Very happy.
 
So, where can one find the recipe? Google search showed nada.
The first post in this thread reads like the recipe is their, but the author forgot to include it.
Bill
 
wildbillbugman said:
So, where can one find the recipe? Google search showed nada.
The first post in this thread reads like the recipe is their, but the author forgot to include it.
Bill
Click to expand...

I can point you to half of the recipe (i.e. just the ingredients) here. The method/instructions for mixing and using those ingredients are probably so intuitive that Jay left them off from that page.

BTW, despite Jay's personal tragedy preventing him from (there was a url link here which no longer exists), he appears to have been very active on photo.net for the past 5 months.

regards
Peter
 
Thank you Peter.
I am new to the Recipe section of APUG. There is alot here to be learned.
I am currently focusing my efforts on in-camera B&W emulsion making. And the right developer for the emulsion is critical. So I will become a reguler here.
I do not know who Jay is, but my heart is with him.
Regards,
Bill
 
I guess I didn't realize the format of the articles section had changed. The formula used to be in a little box to the side

TEA 75ml
Ascorbic acid 5g
Pyrogallol 10g
Phenidone .25g
TEA to make 100ml

Dilution 1+100
 
Post-Fix staining?

Hello,
I am new to this thread and have not found a refference to re-staining after the Fix. What say you?
Thanks,
Bill
 
wildbillbugman said:
Hello,
I am new to this thread and have not found a refference to re-staining after the Fix. What say you?
Click to expand...

I have not used 510 pyro, but this practice will in all likelihood just increase the level of general stain on your negatives.
 
Thanks Mike and Uhner,
While re-staining is not used with pyrocat developers it is common with 'old school' pyro, like PMK.
Bill
 
Nobody re-stains anymore. Not even my cat.
 
I talked with Mike at Artcraft and he will sell a larger kit than the formula listed above. Basically it is four times larger. I think the .25gr of phenidone is hard for him to measure accurately.

TEA 300ml (sends pint, you measure out the 300ml)
Ascorbic acid 20gr
Pyrogallol 40g
Phenidone 1g
TEA to make 400ml

He sells the above for $20.00 plus shipping.

Dilution 1+100 or up to 1+500

Mike
 
Concerning the recipe.
Artcraft lists Pyrogallic Acid, not Pyrogallol.
So my question is if this is the same ingredient?

regards,

Rob
 
Yep, they are the same according to here

"Other names(for Pyrogallol): 1,2,3-Trihydroxybenzene, Pyrogallic acid"
regards
Peter
 
@Mike & Peter,

Thanks a lot.
In some way I always think of ‘liquids’ when I read ‘acid’.
Has to do with vinager I suppose

Regards,

Rob
 
Oh dear, another question.

First I had a look at US stores but there are problems to be expected when shipping to Europe.
Fortunately I found all ingredients via Wolfgang Moersch’ web site.

But then I noticed that the quality of the ascorbic acid is ‘food quality’.

Is this quality suficient?

Regards,

Rob
 
Robbedoes said:
But then I noticed that the quality of the ascorbic acid is ‘food quality’.

Is this quality suficient?
Click to expand...

In all likelihood; I have not encountered any problems when using food grade ascorbic acid in other pyro developers.
 
I'd very much like to try this on the weekend. But, er, I feel dumb, I'm looking that the post and nowhere do I see the chems to use.........
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register