503cx or the 501cm

[cbms]

Hi I am new to the site and hope to get some great info from you gurus.

I am new to mf and am about to make a purchase for a camera there are two that I have seen the 503cx is one although it has some rust on the chrom ( there are two but the other one is a bit more) my first research that I did I was thinking of getting the 501cm I was hoping that some of you guys might be able to give me some pointers on which is the better camera ( not really worried about the flash sync if I am honest) but really I just am interested which one is the better most reliable model.

as for lenses I am looking at getting a 150mm as it is a portrait lense that is my intrest was interesed to know if this is a good lens to start off with or should I get the 80 mm to start off with as I belive it is the faster lens. one final question is do you all use a light meter , as this camera is so basic I am not able to read the light in a way that I would not be able to use one, if so any ideas of a relativly cheap meter.

kind regards

 

[wclark5179]

Here is a place to check things out:

http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?Hasselblad500.html~mainFrame

The main difference between the cameras is the 503 CX has TTL electronics to work with a compatible flash.

The 150 lens is fine for portraits but the 80mm would be a good choice as your first lens.

Yes I do use a light meter. I have the Hasselblad prism with a built in light meter but I also have a regular light meter.

Light meters:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Ambient/ci/902/N/4294540197

The Sekonic L 208 is a good unit at a reasonable price.

I've got this one but it doesn't look like it's manufactured anymore:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ffb181e&itemid=280401654379&ff4=263602_263622

 

[Venchka]

Check the serial numbers for date of manufacture. All else being equal (probably never is) newer may be better. GOOGLE knows where the page is that tells you how to date the cameras by serial number. Lenses too. www.keh.com is reliable for used gear. They grade conservatively and have 15 day return policy. I would avoid a camera with pitted chrome. If the outside that should dry first rusted, no telling what the inside looks like. I found a Gossen Luna-Pro sbc in like new conditon with the case for $53. It's difficult to imagine a better meter for less money.

 

[2F/2F]

Hello, and welcome to APUG.

Any lens is a portrait lens...it just depends on what kind of portrait you want. One of my favorites for portraits is a lens that is about 15% wider than a normal lens (35mm on 135 format). Another of my favorites is one that is nearly 200% longer than normal (135mm on 135 format). Also, you can do a great deal with a normal lens, and that is an understatement to say the least; It could be all you ever need. Personally, I would start with an 80 and a 250, but that is me, for the way that I shoot. If not enough budget, I'd just get the 80 for now, as it will be the most versatile.

Yes, I use a light meter. However, we can't suggest one until we know whether you need it to measure flash or not.

IMO, no reason to pay any extra for a camera that has TTL flash metering capability, especially for in-studio portraits in which you will be using a hand-held meter anyhow. In-camera meters of any type are always a compromise to a hand held light meter. Even if your camera measures flash, it is still measuring it using a rough, generalized pattern and a reflected light reading as opposed to an incident one. In this case, I would choose a camera based on condition.

 

[Q.G.]

There are two major differences between the 503 CX and the 501 CM.
The first is the TTL-OTF flash control sensor: available in the 503 CX, not in the 501 CM.
The second is the larger, non-vignetting mirror. Available in the 501 CM, not in the 503 CX.

The 150 mm is a classic 6x6 portrait lens, because it produces the framing of a sitter most used in portraits, from a distance that produces the best perspective.


To date a piece of Hasselblad equippment, you need the two letter code preceeding (or in) the serial number.
The key to decipher the code is the 'magic word' VHPICTURES, in which the first letter (V) stands for 1, the second (H) for 2, etcetera.
Anything lower than about 45 will need "20" put in front of it. Anything higher "19".

 

[pgomena]

I own a 503cx. You should inspect the inside of the camera body before purchasing. There is a rubbery coating inside called "palpas," which reduces internal reflections and also serves to deaden sound a bit. It deteriorates over time. The coating (actually a stick-on substance, not painted on) develops cracks. The coating also is on the rear shutter doors. To replace the coating requires a complete body disassembly. This is not cheap. I would go with the newer 501. I don't know if it has the same internal coating.

Peter Gomena

 

[Q.G.]

The Palpas (spray on) coating will crack, yes.
But it hardly ever causes problems, making it necessary to replace it, when it does.

So don't worry when you see cracks in the coating.