5 year old Ektachrome

[PhotoPete]

Is 5 year old Ektachrome worth exposing and processing? It has not been frozen- mostly stored at room temperature during that time.

 

[thedarkroomstudios]

Yes. I've seen frozen stuff from the early 90's and it looks fine. Some folks even say they prefer "seasoned" film that is a year or so out of date. Best bet, shoot a roll and see for yourself.

 

[panchromatic]

In my opinion its worth a shot. (no pun intended)

 

[jd callow]

It is worth a shot. I would expect it to have bule blacks and be a little thin over all if it is epp, epr or epn. If it is e100 (whatever flavour) it might be a little pink and and thin.

At one time I thought outdated chromes might be the holy grail for crossprossesing -- I was wrong.

 

[Land Scape]

I purchased outdated Ektachrome on eBay, did my first E-6 processing, and think that the result is worth the money. Based on my very short experience, the E-6 temperature control plays bigger role than the age of film. With modern scanners and Photoshop you can easily do corrections. Have a look at my first E-6 experiments http:/www.personal.inet.fi/koti/cambo/

BR, L&Scape

 

[jimgalli]

I wouldn't take them on my once-in-a-lifetime trip to inner Mongolia, but you'll get images. You'll likely get less D-max and a slight shift to magenta. You might even compensate a bit by underexposing 1/3 stop.

 

[Dave Parker]

With modern scanners and Photoshop you can easily do corrections. Have a look at my first E-6 experiments http:/www.personal.inet.fi/koti/cambo/

BR, L&Scape

Why is it every new member tells us how even if its not right, don't worry be happy, you can fix it on the computer!!!!!!!!!!

That was not what the question was about, come on APUG = analog photograhy users group...

Geeze!

Dave

 

[medform-norm]

Why is it every new member tells us how even if its not right, don't worry be happy, you can fix it on the computer!!!!!!!!!!

Because new members have not been initiated in the taboos of this specific tribe called APUG. You really can't blame the man, he's printing his own things, more than some here can say....(including us). Ease up a little on the newbies, Dave, Sean needs the money.

 

[Dave Parker]

Because new members have not been initiated in the taboos of this specific tribe called APUG. You really can't blame the man, he's printing his own things, more than some here can say....(including us). Ease up a little on the newbies, Dave, Sean needs the money.

I am not trying to be hard on him, but it seems as if it is getting more and more common for people to do this and other things that are not quite kosher in this particular community, granted he may print his own stuff, but I am just saying, I don't quite understand how people don't read the purpose of this system clearing stated in the entrance to the website, again, not trying to be hard on any new member, just stating the obvious, I always welcome new members as I feel as a group we can learn alot from each other, that is what I love about this place.

Dead Link Removed

Dave

 

[Jarred McCaffrey]

Dave, your banana-man is giving away all of my best dance moves! Is nothing truly sacred?

 

[Dave Parker]

Dave, your banana-man is giving away all of my best dance moves! Is nothing truly sacred?

I have been looking for something to use as a Signature, me thinks I may have found it!!!!!

Dave

 

[PhotoPete]

Now that we have raised the level of discourse with a dancing banana, I feel I can ask my follow-on question, which I was too embarrased to ask before. When I cross-process slide film in C-41 chemistry I get negatives, right?

 

[jd callow]

Yes you do get a negative. If you tell me the type of film you have I can give you an Idea of what to expect and some recommendations on how to rate the film. When cross processing out dated e6 film can be more forgiving on exposure than fresh, but does not generally produce as attractive a print.

 

[PhotoPete]

The Ektachrome rolls I have a all either 160 or 64.

 

[jd callow]

The 160 will be Tungsten and the 64 could be T or daylight.

For examples of 160T check out the Vancouver shots in my gallery. The film acts very much like a traditional neg film when crossed. I rate it at 100. It is fairly flat when crossed and is best when used in higher contrast settings.

If the 64 is daylight balanced it is very contrasty and will have strong Blue/Yellow cross over -- Blue shadows and yellow highlights. It has very limited tonal range which makes it good for turning low or medium contrast setting into dramatic high contrast images. I would rate it at 64.

I would also recommend bracketing toward over exposure. This will be especially beneficial if the film is out dated and suffers from lose of DMax. I had a ton of the daylight 64 that was out of date. It required a good deal of over exposure and had a very strong yellow cast. The exposure latitude of the 160 will be greater than the 64.

If the film is new the 64 can be over exposed and under developed (1-2 stops over exposed, pulled 1-1.5 when developed). This will help manage the contrast and make for a more printable 'neg.'

 

[PhotoPete]

Thanks for the info. I also have some different color films that I would like to try to cross as well. It is mostly Portra 160 NC or VC, but I also have all kinds of expired no-longer-made film that a friend gave me. Is there a general rule of thumb for exposure that I should follow?

 

[fatboy22]

Frozen Outdated Ekatachrome

I have been shooting 70mm outdated ektachrome all summer with no problems at all accept finding a lab to process 70mm E6. The film I bought from a proffesional who had a freezer full of the stuff from the late 80's and early 90's has been amazing. I use it in my Graflex Crown graphic with RH-50 film back. You get 50 plus shots with the RH-50 (6x7 format). I was skeptical at first but when I got that first roll back it blew me away, good color saturation and everything. It made me a big believer in freezing film.

Jamie

 

[Dave Parker]

Thanks for the info. I also have some different color films that I would like to try to cross as well. It is mostly Portra 160 NC or VC, but I also have all kinds of expired no-longer-made film that a friend gave me. Is there a general rule of thumb for exposure that I should follow?

Pete,

Are you going to cross process the Portra? if so, in what?

I thought you were asking about cross processing E-6 film in C41 process, all of the Portra films are C41 process.

Dave

 

[PhotoPete]

Pete,

Are you going to cross process the Portra? if so, in what?

Yes, in e-6

I thought you were asking about cross processing E-6 film in C41 process, all of the Portra films are C41 process.

Yes, that is what I was asking about originally, but as I have been thinking about it, I would like to try the other direction as well.