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Want to Buy 4x5 developing tank etc.

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Alan W

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I'm getting a little tired of tray development.Anyone out there got a 4x5 developing tank system(everything included)that they want to sell?I'm open to sane suggestions,thanks,Alan.
 
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I used both a Yankee (the later ones with the drop-in 12-sheet holder) and Jobo.
The Jobo is easier to use but I thought the negs were a little to contrasty for me -- following their roller rotation method.
So I instead used it upright per the Kodak method with regular inversions.
The Yankee tanks are good if you have a good technique. To make the liquid go over the neg surfaces evenly
you'll need to do twist the tank right and left, like a washing machine agitator, periodically to get good movement.
Then you'll get good negs with only moderate spilling out the top.
Oh, and the yankee tanks are also very good if you want to do open tank dipping from dev. to stop to fix. Several tanks can be quite handy.
 
This might be a solution. It is what I use and my volume is not real large.

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That is the same exact tank that Alan W is getting from me for $25 :smile:



I know. Just a few hours after that auction ended, another one sold for $4.99! LOL!!
 
I have a combiplan I'm not using because I'm tray developing by inspection. I think they are discontinued now?
$80 paypal'd and shipped. Ex+ condition, complete with box and (I think) manual.

Just fyi, the Yankee tanks... I used one in college, I only ever managed to do 6 sheets at a time, leaving half the slots empty, and had to slosh the crud out of it with a tray under it to catch the spills using dilute D76. I tried a few other methods and soups and ruined everything else. YMMV, but those things have a horrible reputation. The Jobo and Nikkor S.S. tanks work out well for many people.
 
Personally, if a Jobo + rotation (CPE/CPP) is not an option, I'd only want to do stand dev. with these tanks. That's what I do with B&W 4x5s when I'm on the road. I keep around a Jobo 2509 + tank just for this purpose (at home I use an Expert Drum on my CPP2). Rodinal 1:100 all the way :smile:
 
I only ever managed to do 6 sheets at a time, leaving half the slots empty, and had to slosh the crud out of it with a tray under it to catch the spills using dilute D76.


Is that because when its fully loaded there isn't enough room for the liquid to move around?
 
Try a homemade (there was a url link here which no longer exists) Scroll down to my post to see a picture. Your fingers never touch the negs, except from film holder to tray. 450-500 ml of developer will do 1-4 sheets and ensures adequate amount of developer.
 
Since I've never done it before, does anyone know of a good video on tank processing 4x5>?
 
I have a Combi that needs a new film holder part. I looked on B&H and about had a heart attack.

I decided that I'm getting the Mod54 for 4x5 and a 3 reel Paterson tank. Then I'll be first in line for the 5x7 prototype. At least then I can use the tank to develop all the other film I use, too.
 
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Is that because when its fully loaded there isn't enough room for the liquid to move around?

It seems there isn't enough spacing between the slots, but even with slots only half loaded it lacked decent agitation patterns. I seem to remember a professor calling the effect bromide drag, but I'm not sure that was technically true. I got streaks on everything, especially evident in skies and on walls.
That I evolved a technique that kind-of worked with the yankee seems to be uncommon. Even with only haf the slots loaded I had to slosh it around so much that considerable diluted developer leaked out. It worked, but was a poor solution and I would not use one again. I sort of pushed and pulled it inside of a tray until it just barely lost any fluid with it a certain amount full.
 
I was a dedicated devotee and defender of Yankee tanks. Must be because I was born in the northern US. Anyway, after so many people complaining about the uneven development in sky or other even toned areas, I finally noticed it in my negatives. I don't often include skies in my compositions so it wasn't obvious. Since then I have tried every possible kind of agitation to eliminate or at least reduce the uneven development. Sometimes I would succeed, other times fail. Sometimes I would succeed and then fail on the next attempt using the same strategy. I have decided that for me, the tanks are inconsistent and unreliable, which is unacceptable to me. So I am returning to open tray development. Yes, I have to work in total darkness, but I actually don't mind it as much as I used to, especially since the developer I am now using is pretty fast. And there is something to be said for sitting in absolute darkness and working by the sense of touch for 15 minutes or so.
 
No one uses open tanks and hangars anymore? Completely unobstructed exposure to the soup and no inverting.
 
No one uses open tanks and hangars anymore? Completely unobstructed exposure to the soup and no inverting.

After using my Yankee tank last night, and sloshing soup out the sides while agitating it, I'd certainly be open to tanks and hangars if I could come across an affordable one.
 
I have three Leedal double capacity stainless steel tanks and two floating lids. These will hold up to 24 hangars. I'll take $195 plus shipping if interested. I already sold all the 4x5 hangars.

3x_leedal_4x5_tanks.jpg
 
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