just out of curiosity, you might just want to look at using a lab for processing your film. Samy's in Santa Barbara(
www.samys805.com/film-processing) does excellent work, and the cost is close to "nil", even when you factor in shipping to/from them.
I just gang up orders and send them in at the same time to save on shipping costs. I've personally been re-considering actually NOT purchasing a 3005 drum due to the cost-savings.
however:
IF you want to forge ahead and do C-41 yourself, I'd recommend STILL doing rotary processing, using Jobo tanks. Find yourself a beseler or other brand motorbase(self-reversing is recommended), and set up a hairdryer on the "warm" setting 2-3 feet away or so. Point it at the tank on the motorbase, it'll help keep the drum warm during the developer stage. Heat up your chemicals to 100F in a rubbermaid in the bathtub in their respective bottles, and have a big jug of clean h20 for the wash cycles.
Personally, I'd steer CLEAR of dip-n-dunk style processing, agitation marks from the hangers have their problems, and large tank processing, honestly, is quite impractical for small runs of film. Uses 4-5x the amount of chemistry that rotary does, and with a greater chance(IMO) of screwing something up. However, nitrogen burst systems for large 8x10-sized tanks work extrmely well, but you really need large amounts of film to go through them to make them cost-efficient on a per/sheet basis.
just my $.02
I'm a college student, so I'm looking to save $$$ wherever I can.
I've been processing my own color negs in a Jobo at the local photo center, but seeing that I charge myself ~$25/hr for my time as an assistant(to photographers), I have decided to have my color processed by Samy's from now on. They're SUPER CONSISTENT, NICE PEOPLE, and have super-fast turnaround(usually less than 1 business day).
b/w I tray develop, color I used to do in a Jobo or on a motorbase like I described above. About 300sheets total, 4x5 and 8x10(90% 4x5 though).
-Dan