43 years old Kodalith ortho 4x5 - Rodinal or ?

[removedacct2]

i bought an almost full pack of 1978 "expired" Kodalith ortho type 3:

I browsed many threads on filmwasters, photo.net, largeformatphotography, rangefindersforum, and also here on photrio. Mentioned developers over the years are D-76 1+3, Deksol, D-123, Ilfosol-3, Rodinal 1+50, 1+100, 1+150, caffenol, MG paper developer. Rodinal and MG are often mentioned used with visual inspection in non-actinic red.
I have no MG developer now and it's w-e, so this will wait. Anywhy I am first interested in regular negative developer without visual inspection.

the sheets have no notches and what was mentioned in https://www.largeformatphotography....p?52172-OUCH!-Kodalith-Ortho-4x5-has-no-notch helped me be sure of the correct orientation.
Testing on a sheet, the purplish side is indeed the emulsion: color change after humidification, and scrap goes through a layer of emulsion. The curl is the hint also.
My pack had been opened so I can't confirm if it is by default, but there is a thin yellow paper under the one fold of the enveloping cardboard and the emulsion side of the sheet on top of the stack.
Anyway the curl is easy to feel in the dark. And a notch can be done on the stack with two small cuts of a sharp blade.

so, how to expose and develop?

I metered at iso 2 and used Rodinal 1+150, actually rather 7ml + 1 liter water, 1hr30' , agitation the 1st minute, then 10s at 30' and 60'

citric stop, rinse of the stop, regular acidic fixer (Fomafix) double bath.

negative is dense brownish:

but looks good under lightboks:

inverted/"printed" as regular grade 2 paper in ColorPerfect.
Lense Topcor 105mm f4.5 at f16 for 4".
I am standing in the shadow between two buildings, the half-pyramidal stairred building side is very dark/black tainted glass:

100%:

this one is botched, a double exposure. I was unsure if the shutter had triggered, and decided to take again after I checked shutter was ok and in doing so moved a bit.
But the point with this shot is that the background houses are all shades of light and mid greys. foreground kayaks are yellow and bright red.
Same Topcor-105f4.5, 8" @f22

these pictures were taken in double, so i have the two other still in the holders, and wondering what other recipe and/or developer to use for comparison and possible more optimal result. No idea how much of spectral range can be extracted,since this film anyway was meant for mechanical drawings (strong bw contrast and lines).
I have Rodinal, HC-110., Tetenal Ultrafin, XT-3, Tanol ....

 

[abruzzi]

also note that if it is orthochromatic film, you should be able to load in into your film holder under a safelight. Previous versions of Arista Ortho Litho had no notch, so was best loaded under a safelight. (the current version has a simple clipped corner.

 

[removedacct2]

also note that if it is orthochromatic film, you should be able to load in into your film holder under a safelight. Previous versions of Arista Ortho Litho had no notch, so was best loaded under a safelight. (the current version has a simple clipped corner.

indeed.
anecdotally, I saw it online yesterday, had to drive to pick it so I also took a Horseman, a tripod, holders, in the car, and a dark bag, in order to take some shots around afterwards. So I loaded two holders in the dark bag, and the curl was sufficient good hint for the emulsion side. Sacrificed that one sheet anyway, so to be sure.

still haven't decided what to try with the two sheet waiting to be developed. Maybe Rodinal again, but full standing, no inversions after initial agitation, 1+100 for one hour, or 1+200 for two hours. Or HC-110 1+160 45mn semi-standing.

 

[john_s]

If you have Pyrocat-HD this might be of interest:

https://gitbucket.tundraware.com/tundra/Stand-Development/tree/master

 

[removedacct2]

If you have Pyrocat-HD this might be of interest:

https://gitbucket.tundraware.com/tundra/Stand-Development/tree/master

thanks for the hint. i have still some Moersch Tanol in the fridge, so could try that, and also buy some of his other staining developers (Pyro 48, Finol, ...). I can't see Pyrocat powder kits or concentrates sold here in Europe, would have to mix from raw powders.

otherwise I tried HC-110 1+160 1 hour semi.-stand (5s gentle inversions at 30'). Exposure isn't exactly the same for the two shots, there's always some small difference when using stopwatch and cable manually, in this case the meter said 4s but there may be quite some ms +/-. But 200% details show more sharpness with HC-110.

 

[NB23]

You accomplish absolutely nothing with the “Stand” and “semi-stand”. It’s BS methods.

Develop and agitate well, every 30 seconds. This guarantees the best results.

stand, semi-stand, all they do is guarantee worst results.

 

[mauriholc]

i bought an almost full pack of 1978 "expired" Kodalith ortho type 3:

View attachment 282268


I browsed many threads on filmwasters, photo.net, largeformatphotography, rangefindersforum, and also here on photrio. Mentioned developers over the years are D-76 1+3, Deksol, D-123, Ilfosol-3, Rodinal 1+50, 1+100, 1+150, caffenol, MG paper developer. Rodinal and MG are often mentioned used with visual inspection in non-actinic red.
I have no MG developer now and it's w-e, so this will wait. Anywhy I am first interested in regular negative developer without visual inspection.

the sheets have no notches and what was mentioned in https://www.largeformatphotography....p?52172-OUCH!-Kodalith-Ortho-4x5-has-no-notch helped me be sure of the correct orientation.
Testing on a sheet, the purplish side is indeed the emulsion: color change after humidification, and scrap goes through a layer of emulsion. The curl is the hint also.
My pack had been opened so I can't confirm if it is by default, but there is a thin yellow paper under the one fold of the enveloping cardboard and the emulsion side of the sheet on top of the stack.
Anyway the curl is easy to feel in the dark. And a notch can be done on the stack with two small cuts of a sharp blade.

View attachment 282269



so, how to expose and develop?

I metered at iso 2 and used Rodinal 1+150, actually rather 7ml + 1 liter water, 1hr30' , agitation the 1st minute, then 10s at 30' and 60'

citric stop, rinse of the stop, regular acidic fixer (Fomafix) double bath.

negative is dense brownish:

View attachment 282270

but looks good under lightboks:

View attachment 282271


inverted/"printed" as regular grade 2 paper in ColorPerfect.
Lense Topcor 105mm f4.5 at f16 for 4".
I am standing in the shadow between two buildings, the half-pyramidal stairred building side is very dark/black tainted glass:


View attachment 282272

100%:

View attachment 282273



this one is botched, a double exposure. I was unsure if the shutter had triggered, and decided to take again after I checked shutter was ok and in doing so moved a bit.
But the point with this shot is that the background houses are all shades of light and mid greys. foreground kayaks are yellow and bright red.
Same Topcor-105f4.5, 8" @f22

View attachment 282274


these pictures were taken in double, so i have the two other still in the holders, and wondering what other recipe and/or developer to use for comparison and possible more optimal result. No idea how much of spectral range can be extracted,since this film anyway was meant for mechanical drawings (strong bw contrast and lines).
I have Rodinal, HC-110., Tetenal Ultrafin, XT-3, Tanol ....

Hello!
My name is Mauricio, from Argentina, I came here because I recently bought an enlarger (Kaiser VCP 6002) and the person who sold me gives me some other stuff, among that staff he gave me 2 packs of films; one Kodak Kodalith Ortho Film Type 3 6556 100 sheets of 4x5 in. and one Agfa Litex 0711p 100 sheets of 4x5 in. They are kinda "new" expired in 2001 (both)

I never use before something like that, I shoot on medium format (mamiya rz67 pro II) and I was wondering if I can use this sheets for load in the filmbacks (in safe light) and if it will work? I also have a Polaroid back, so i think i may use them with that.
Do you know if it will work?

And later for development i have rodinal, can i do a stand development with that?

Thank you for sharing!!! It was very helpfuly for me