eli griggs
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The lens cap idea sounds a like a good place to start. Look into 3d design/sketching software, pick something you like, then give it a whirl. Set up a workflow that works for you. Personally I use Fusion for the design part and Cura for slicing. I've never printed any 3rd party designs so can't really help you with that.starting projects are welcomed
Most of the time I just use PLA because it's easy to work with. Some of the time I've used PETG but I've honestly never seen a very clear benefit to it.What 3D tools and gear would you make for your kit or, others, with your own 3D printers and what filaments would you suggest and why?
No. I don't have a Hasselblad.Would you try film mask for the Hasselblad or 4” x 5” holders?
Ensure the printer is set up properly to begin with. Use a fine printing detail so layer height is kept low, which keeps the seams small. Design the part in such a way that any walls that need to be light proof are reasonably thick. Start by printing it with a high infill percentage (up to 100%). Then observe the result. Use whatever measure is feasible to fix any problems; this can vary from tape + tinfoil to paint to redesigning the part or adjusting printing parameters. There's no one-size-fits-all.How would you fill the micro fine layer lines?
Most of the time I just use PLA because it's easy to work with. Some of the time I've used PETG but I've honestly never seen a very clear benefit to it.
No. I don't have a Hasselblad.
4x5" holders aren't too expensive or too difficult to find so I don't see the point in printing them. If I had to, I would print the frame and then obtain some sheet material for the dark slide as it doesn't make much sense to try and print that IMO.
Ensure the printer is set up properly to begin with. Use a fine printing detail so layer height is kept low, which keeps the seams small. Design the part in such a way that any walls that need to be light proof are reasonably thick. Start by printing it with a high infill percentage (up to 100%). Then observe the result. Use whatever measure is feasible to fix any problems; this can vary from tape + tinfoil to paint to redesigning the part or adjusting printing parameters. There's no one-size-fits-all.
Between Thingiverse and Printables.com, I've often found the thing I wanted. But I've also become more proficient at creating my own. I'd still consider myself a FreeCAD novice, but the more I use it, the more sense it makes, and I've gotten better at envisioning how I'll combine multiple simple elements to create the desired object.
But for better or worse, some Thingiverse members upload 3D-scanned objects which may or may not actually be printable, so I prefer those items which have reports of successful builds.
Some stuff, I don't bother with: For example, unless I need the part right now, I'm not going to waste time in printing Canon EF-mount rear caps when I can buy a half-dozen, injection-molded parts for very little money.
But 3D-printed lens shades can work great: They weigh nothing, they're impact-resistant, and if you lose or break one, print another!
For film cassettes, I've had success with Proto-Pasta's opaque black HTPLA. A 50 gram coil ought to be good for quite a few 16 mm film cassettes.
A free Tinkercad account from Autodesk is fairly capable to make parts if the design is not horribly complicated. A lot of tutorials on YouTube as well...
Tinkercad
Tinkercad is a free, easy-to-use app for 3D design, electronics, and coding.www.tinkercad.com
Are you making any Minolta 16 cassettes?
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