35mm Nikon fixed focal length lenses

[mporter012]

Hi!

I'd love to hear your thoughts on the various 35mm Nikon lenses.

I know some folks look down on the series E lenses, but I have the 50mm and it's wonderful. They are practically as light and small as rangefinder lenses!

Mark

 

[BrianShaw]

Lots of folks love to hate this guy, but I find his reviews decent enough:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikkor.htm

 

[markbarendt]

Here's another resource; http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I love F and F2 vintage Nikon SLR glass. I spend hours in this site:

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/

 

[Robert Ley]

A lot depends on what Nikon camera bodies you will be using. Will you be using pre Ai lens, manual focus Ai and Ais lenses or auto focus. For instance, I have a good knowledge of pre Ai and Ai, Ais lenses, but not much about the later auto focus lenses .

It is hard to go wrong with the 105 f:2.5 and the 35 f:2 and you already know about the 50. There many threads on all these lenses...check them out.


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[mporter012]

Hey Robert,

I'm actually just interested in the 35mm focal length. I use an FE2 and Fm2n, so no autofocus capabilities. The 35mm 2.0 AF-D is a nice lens from what I've read, and I could just use in manually, but it runs about $300 or so, compared to the E series at about $50!

A lot depends on what Nikon camera bodies you will be using. Will you be using pre Ai lens, manual focus Ai and Ais lenses or auto focus. For instance, I have a good knowledge of pre Ai and Ai, Ais lenses, but not much about the later auto focus lenses .

It is hard to go wrong with the 105 f:2.5 and the 35 f:2 and you already know about the 50. There many threads on all these lenses...check them out.


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[Robert Ley]

I just looked on Fleebay and saw a nice looking 35 mm f:2 Ais manual focus with a buy it now for $220. You should be able to get a manual focus 35f:2 for $80-$150 depending on the vintage. They are all pretty good optically just depends on the condition of the lens. Remember the newest is over 20 y/o.


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[Robert Ley]

Considering your camera bodies, you should consider only Ai or Ais lenses. You may find an early pre Ai, single coated lens that has been factory Ai'd. They can be very nice lenses at a good price. I have one and it is a good performer. The most important thing with any lens is that you use a good lens hood. I use mostly the dedicated screw in, metal Nikon hoods.


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[Oren Grad]

Considering your camera bodies, you should consider only Ai or Ais lenses.

John White still does AI conversions, for not much money:

http://www.aiconversions.com/

I had him convert a 35/2 Nikkor-O that I picked up for very little money as part of a kit.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Hey Robert,

I'm actually just interested in the 35mm focal length. I use an FE2 and Fm2n, so no autofocus capabilities. The 35mm 2.0 AF-D is a nice lens from what I've read, and I could just use in manually, but it runs about $300 or so, compared to the E series at about $50!

Everything you could want to know about 35/2 Nikon lenses:

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/35mmnikkor/35mmf2.htm

My fav is the Nikkor-O.

 

[Vilk]

the non-AI 35/2 O.C has nice enough rendering, decent detail, i frequently take it on one-lens trips: hiking, canoeing, walking around town; pocketable and dependable, have yet to find a flaw

the 35/1.4 AI-S i like just as much, for totally different reasons--makes you feel better and the unpredictable flare is art unleashed

 

[JW PHOTO]

Mark,
When I shot Nikon years ago and my favorite lens was the 105mm f2.5 AIS version. I have used different 105mm f2.5 versions and folks say they are the same, but I swear that the AIS version was the best I have ever used in the 100mm range. Of course I sold all that Nikon gear off and bought Canon digital gear. Now I have an old Fuji S2 PRO, a little Samsung NX100 w/adapter, Canon 5D and had to get some glass. I got some normal stuff and then picked up and old worn 135mm f2.8 Nikkor-Q Auto AI lens with spotless glass. This lens absolutely amazes me. On the digital cameras it is extremely sharp, almost zero flare and no fringing. I'm sure it would do the same on film, if not better. I'm not parting with this one and the nice thing about it is it was bought with pocket change. Try one if you see one for a fair price. It might surprise you like it did me. JohnW

 

[JW PHOTO]

Whoops! I re-read and guess you were asking about 35mm focal length. I had a 35mm f1.4 AI'd lens and was always more then happy with it.

 

[chip j]

I
If you go to Ken Rockwell's site he says the 35mm f2 {multicoated} is ok for daylight but has abberations @ nite, es. w/ lights. I have a 35 f2 AI that I bouft yrs ago, but haven't used it, 'cause I'm
always w/the 28-105 AF.

y
o
u

w
a
t

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

I would discourage you from buying any AI'd converted lens if you ever want to use an EM/FG/FG-20 series, a FA or a F4. They don't like "half baked" AI lens.
The conversion only respects 3 elements of the AI specification. The 4th element is left behind: the max aperture post on the mount. The reason is very simple:
At the time Nikon introduced the AI mount, there wasn't a body that could take advantage of the full AI spec, so no one paid attention to the little tab or block at the bottom of the lens. Only with the EM in 79 was the Max Aperture Post used for the first time. On the EM it is to set the Auto Aperture with appropriate flashes. On a F4, it is used to allow Matrix metering.
The 35mm lens I use is the Series E: compact, light, reasonably fast at F2.5 and quite good when stopped down a couple of stops.

 

[miha]

I know some folks look down on the series E lenses, but I have the 50mm and it's wonderful. They are practically as light and small as rangefinder lenses!

Mark

When I was using Nikon, I had 50E and 100E among others, they are great, but my favourite was their 28mm AIS, CRC, a 7-element masterpiece.

 

[Xmas]

the E series at about $50!

You may have to pay more...

 

[OldBodyOldSoul]

The best reference site for Nikkor lenses, together with mir: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz

@ miha: The CRC, AI-S version of the 28/2.8 Nikkor has 8 elements. It is its previous version, the 28/2.8 AI, that has 7 elements. Or so the specs say, I never cared to open my lenses and check.

 

[miha]

I stand corrected.

 

[Xmas]

I would discourage you from buying any AI'd converted lens if you ever want to use an EM/FG/FG-20 series, a FA or a F4. They don't like "half baked" AI lens.
The conversion only respects 3 elements of the AI specification. The 4th element is left behind: the max aperture post on the mount. The reason is very simple:
At the time Nikon introduced the AI mount, there wasn't a body that could take advantage of the full AI spec, so no one paid attention to the little tab or block at the bottom of the lens. Only with the EM in 79 was the Max Aperture Post used for the first time. On the EM it is to set the Auto Aperture with appropriate flashes. On a F4, it is used to allow Matrix metering.
The 35mm lens I use is the Series E: compact, light, reasonably fast at F2.5 and quite good when stopped down a couple of stops.

Hi Ricardo
Does this restriction apply to Nikon conversion kits as well as nailfile jobs?
And it is not mentioned for the FG in the handbook.
The series E 35mm seem rare.
Noel

 

[markbarendt]

I had a 35mm Nikkor O done by John White http://www.aiconversions.com worked great on a stable full of bodies.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Noel,
You are right in one thing: the FG is an exception. It has the max aperture post reader on the mount, but it doesn't seem to be necessary.
The max aperture post was used on the EM (and the FG-20) for the auto flash functions, but on the FG it doesn't seem to work. The manual for the SB-19 refers that only the EM and the FG-20 can be used in Auto Aperture setting which uses the max post in combination with the AI tab to send info about the aperture in use to the flash.

As the FG has TTL flash metering, Nikon seems to have removed the EM flash system from the FG! Still, if you look at the mount on a FG, the max post lever is there at 5 o'clock position. And it isn't either necessary for the Program mode as the FG/FA use a close-loop system where they meter after the lens closes to the taking aperture, eliminating this way any errors due to sticky aperture blades or otherwise not the exact aperture setting. Program (and Shutter priority on the FA) mode is possible even with AI'd lens.

All AI modified lenses that I ever saw don't change the mount, only the aperture ring. So, the max aperture post isn't added and that's why the manual for the FA and the F4 refer that Matrix metering isn't possible with AI'd lenses as those cameras require it for the Matrix meter.

The Series E 35mm F2.5 isn't that rare. Ebay UK has 5 at the moment on sale, albeit at high prices. It is rare in the 2nd version with the chrome ring. My version is the 1st one all black and it is in mint condition.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Lots of folks love to hate this guy, but I find his reviews decent enough:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikkor.htm

Ken Rockwell is a treasure of information and well worth supporting.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I just looked on Fleebay and saw a nice looking 35 mm f:2 Ais manual focus with a buy it now for $220. You should be able to get a manual focus 35f:2 for $80-$150 depending on the vintage. They are all pretty good optically just depends on the condition of the lens. Remember the newest is over 20 y/o.


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they might be like some wines and get better with age.mine is certainly as good as it wasalmost 40 years ago.it is a marvelof optical technology.just like the 24f/2.8.well done Nikon. I know mine won't be for saleas they work perfectly with the latest digital bodiesas well.

 

[Xmas]

Noel,
You are right in one thing: the FG is an exception. It has the max aperture post reader on the mount, but it doesn't seem to be necessary.
The max aperture post was used on the EM (and the FG-20) for the auto flash functions, but on the FG it doesn't seem to work. The manual for the SB-19 refers that only the EM and the FG-20 can be used in Auto Aperture setting which uses the max post in combination with the AI tab to send info about the aperture in use to the flash.

As the FG has TTL flash metering, Nikon seems to have removed the EM flash system from the FG! Still, if you look at the mount on a FG, the max post lever is there at 5 o'clock position. And it isn't either necessary for the Program mode as the FG/FA use a close-loop system where they meter after the lens closes to the taking aperture, eliminating this way any errors due to sticky aperture blades or otherwise not the exact aperture setting. Program (and Shutter priority on the FA) mode is possible even with AI'd lens.

All AI modified lenses that I ever saw don't change the mount, only the aperture ring. So, the max aperture post isn't added and that's why the manual for the FA and the F4 refer that Matrix metering isn't possible with AI'd lenses as those cameras require it for the Matrix meter.

The Series E 35mm F2.5 isn't that rare. Ebay UK has 5 at the moment on sale, albeit at high prices. It is rare in the 2nd version with the chrome ring. My version is the 1st one all black and it is in mint condition.

Hi
Thanks
Well embarrassing- I only read the instructions did not check the lens or mount. I thought it was the servo follower on the aperture ring!
Must look at my FG20 as well.
I knew the FG was ok with AI (AIed) or AIs lenses even if/when they have different aperture control laws cause of the stop down first repeat the light measurement again mechanism.
I acquired two 5cm Es on bodies both good condition cept for heliciod lube missing.
Bodies bit beaten up but glue works ok on the plastic shell.