30"x40" prints: tray question

[Marco Buonocore]

Now that Ilford is offering 30"x40" cut paper, I was thinking about doing a paper + tray order from B&H. I have some big homemade 30"x40" trays in the darkroom, but they're monstrosities. I'd like something that stacks and can be stored out of the way when I'm not using them.

Does anyone have any feedback on the trays offered? I think the Arkay stainless trays are priced to high to seriously consider. That leaves the Arkay plastic, Cescolite and Doran, unless anyone has another suggestion.

Arkay plastic: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/65425-REG/Arkay_605152_30R_Plastic_Developing_Tray.html/prm/alsVwDtl

Cescolite: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/83114-REG/Cescolite_CL3040T_Heavy_Weight_Plastic_Developing_Tray.html

Doran: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43204-REG/Doran_PR30X40_Plastic_Ribbed_Developing_Tray.html

What I'm mainly wondering is, are the trays *exactly* 30"x40"? Or is there room to move?

Thanks!

 

[cliveh]

Photographic trays seem very expensive and you can pick up something similar at a fraction of the price from a garden centre, or even line a cardboard box with a bin liner.

 

[Bob Carnie]

What paper are they offering it with and what is the minimum order??
QUOTE=Marco Buonocore;1682740]Now that Ilford is offering 30"x40" cut paper, I was thinking about doing a paper + tray order from B&H. I have some big homemade 30"x40" trays in the darkroom, but they're monstrosities. I'd like something that stacks and can be stored out of the way when I'm not using them.

Does anyone have any feedback on the trays offered? I think the Arkay stainless trays are priced to high to seriously consider. That leaves the Arkay plastic, Cescolite and Doran, unless anyone has another suggestion.

Arkay plastic: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/65425-REG/Arkay_605152_30R_Plastic_Developing_Tray.html/prm/alsVwDtl

Cescolite: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/83114-REG/Cescolite_CL3040T_Heavy_Weight_Plastic_Developing_Tray.html

Doran: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43204-REG/Doran_PR30X40_Plastic_Ribbed_Developing_Tray.html

What I'm mainly wondering is, are the trays *exactly* 30"x40"? Or is there room to move?

Thanks![/QUOTE]

 

[Bob Carnie]

Also you can make your own custom trays out of plastic to specific sizes, this is what I use and they are very robust and have handles for agitation.

 

[eddie]

I bought these, a few years ago. Nice trays, larger than 32x40 inches. Discount for multiples.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=39664&catid=852

 

[Marco Buonocore]

Hi Clive, Bob;

I've gone down the route with homemade trays, etc... and they ended up being a hassle. They weigh a tonne, they leak and they take up huge amounts of space. Maybe I should have a look at the ones you've made, Bob, and pick your brain. I'm willing to pay for something that actually stacks and gets out of the way when I'm not using it. I know they're overpriced by a long shot, but that's life sometimes.

Insofar as cut sheets, Ilford appears to be offering the new Classic FB paper in 30"x40" :

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1017784-REG/ilford_1172148_multigrade_fb_classic_gloss.html

I wish they offered the Warmtone! Again, it's cheaper to buy the rolls, but I absolutely hate using rolled paper. I never got used to it. I'll pay for the convenience of cut sheets, no questions asked.

 

[nsurit]

Interesting the US Plastics part number is the same as used by Cescolite. My bet is they are the same. I've bought from US Plastics over the years and have always been pleased with their service. Bill Barber

 

[eddie]

Bill- I'm not sure they are the same. US Plastic is 4.5 inches deep. The Cescolite is 3 inches deep. The US Plastic one is over 36x46. When I called B&H (years ago) for the exact measurement of the Cescolite, I was told it was 30x40 inches. Either way, the US Plastic ones are cheaper, especially when purchasing 3 or more.

 

[Marco Buonocore]

Bill, Eddie;

Thanks for the head's up on US Plastics! I really like having the tray oversize, even if it means using more chemistry. So far the US Plastics 32"x42" seems like the best options. I really appreciate your input!

 

[ROL]

It looks to me that Cescos are US Plastics. The second dimension (overall) listed on the US Plastics site, depth, and weight are virtually identical to what I just measured yesterday and reported in this (there was a url link here which no longer exists) on my Cescos. Mine are 4½" deep. I doubt 3" would even be adequate to contain sloshes in a tray that large, in which I use a minimum of 2 gallons of chemistry. I'll bet that suggestive US Plastics image isn't true to the 32x42 offering, and think it unlikely that they have a rim spout either. It doesn't seem very likely there would actually be two manufacturers of this tray.

 

[eddie]

I think you're right. I just measured mine. They're 32x42 at the bottom. The outer dimensions are exactly as you posted yesterday. Maybe B&H's 3 inch dimension is in error. They do seem to be just like my smaller Cescolites. There is no rim spout.

 

[ROL]

FYI: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...sic_gloss.html – sold in multiples of 5! :eek:

It's a buck more per sheet, compared to the same roll, by my reckoning. I suppose worth the convenience... but that's quite the investment.

 

[Marco Buonocore]

Oh boy - I didn't see the "sold only in multiples of 5". That certainly throws a wrench in the works!

 

[Bob Carnie]

I am building my new sinks in a couple of weeks, you are more than welcome to help ... three twelve foot sinks .

 

[darkroom_rookie]

(...) homemade trays, (...) weigh a tonne, they leak and they take up huge amounts of space.

Perhaps you didn't use the right materials. Mine are 26"x32.5" at the bottom and are made from 8mm "marine" plywood (cut from one very large bent and slightly damaged piece bought at a huge discount), some cheap epoxy left over from a building site and expensive marine-grade polyurethane. The inner edges were first carefully covered with "putty" consisting of stone dust mixed with epoxy. The trays are near-stackable and have seen a lot of use and abuse. Not a single leak. Not 30"x40", but at this size, they're pretty light.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Either ABS or Plexiglas trays are easy to fabricate. I'd forget plywood - more work to end up with way more weight. By the time you add up the
cost of marine ply and penetrating epoxy, you'll have spent more than just going out and buying the Cesco trays in the first place.

 

[trythis]

Would these work? They are condensate pans for HVAC systems and come in many sizes. The pans have shallow ridges in them so that may be a problem, but they are a bit cheaper.

http://www.grainger.com/product/DIVERSITECH-Plastic-Condensate-Drain-Pan-3HAJ9?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/3HAJ3_AS01?$smthumb$

 

[DREW WILEY]

Just depends on whether or not they're deep enough, or will even fit into the sink. There are all kinds of cheap alternatives out there. But so what.
Used trays can be had for next to nothing these days, even used mural printing devices for black and white, if you check around a bit. I've even gotten big new 316 stainless trays for
free, which probably cost a fortune new.

 

[Bob Carnie]

I have plexiglass trays basic opaque grey, they are fantastic with handles... Drew do you know how to do plastic welding and if so could you elaborate as this may be the exact thing Marco needs.

Either ABS or Plexiglas trays are easy to fabricate. I'd forget plywood - more work to end up with way more weight. By the time you add up the
cost of marine ply and penetrating epoxy, you'll have spent more than just going out and buying the Cesco trays in the first place.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Heat welding of plastics is quite different than solvent welding. I wanted my own sink made out of something chemically inert and decently insulating, so I chose thick polypropylene sheeting. I was fortunate enough to know someone who specializes in welding lead sheets together inside new nuclear reactors. So he had the needed equipment and skills, and he
did the whole job dirt cheap as a kind of horse-trading favor. It would cost a small fortune to hire someone to do that kind of thing. It's quite a specialized skill set. Solvent welding,
on the other hand, is very easy. Lots of plastics shops teach courses in this. Slightly scuffed plexi or ABS sheets can be had cheaply. You need a very straight square edge. In the old
days, we'd saw the sheet with a fine plywood or plexi blade then dead-square the edges with a laminate trimmer. Nowadays most people simply make a single cut with a Festool rail saw
and a plastic blade and go right to the gluing step. I've even made very complex darkroom projects like archival print washers in a single afternoon. It would be even faster today.

 

[Bob Carnie]

mine are heat welded and they are great...

Heat welding of plastics is quite different than solvent welding. I wanted my own sink made out of something chemically inert and decently insulating, so I chose thick polypropylene sheeting. I was fortunate enough to know someone who specializes in welding lead sheets together inside new nuclear reactors. So he had the needed equipment and skills, and he
did the whole job dirt cheap as a kind of horse-trading favor. It would cost a small fortune to hire someone to do that kind of thing. It's quite a specialized skill set. Solvent welding,
on the other hand, is very easy. Lots of plastics shops teach courses in this. Slightly scuffed plexi or ABS sheets can be had cheaply. You need a very straight square edge. In the old
days, we'd saw the sheet with a fine plywood or plexi blade then dead-square the edges with a laminate trimmer. Nowadays most people simply make a single cut with a Festool rail saw
and a plastic blade and go right to the gluing step. I've even made very complex darkroom projects like archival print washers in a single afternoon. It would be even faster today.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Heat welding is now routine on seamless roofing. But that's a lot thinner material than any kind of plastic sheeting useful for darkroom gear.
A do-it-yourselfer would have better luck making fiberglass things if they wanted a reasonable level of chemical resistance. Lots of nasty fumes
involved, however. ABS is probably the easiest route.