30 rolls of wet film...what to do?

[BrianShaw]

Poor Karl… nothing heard from him lately. Hope he hasn’t fallen into a catatonic stupor.

 

[Karl K]

Brian, I'm here, reading all the suggestions and trying to decide what to do.
I think dip and dunk is the best method, but I can't find any local lab that still uses dip and dunk equipment.
I've used Duggal in NYC many times, but they got rid of their dip and dunk machines.
I don't want to ship this wet/semi/wet/semi/dry film, so if anybody knows of a NJ/NYC/PA lab with a dip and dunk machine, kindly drop me a PM.
I'm willing to drive an hour or two from East Brunswick, NJ.
No, the photo I posted is not the actual film, and yes, it's all exposed.
The film expiration dates are around 2008-2009.
My last option is black and white processing, which I can do at home.
Any suggestions, if I elect that option?
I have Microdol-X, D-76, Rodinal and Patterson tanks.
Thank you to everyone who took the time to help me.
PS. There are actually 32 rolls!

 

[Donald Qualls]

Have you checked how Unique Photo processes film? They're a brick and mortar store, their web presence says they're in Fairfield, NJ. Never had film handled there myself, but they're pretty much the only US source for consumer access to lab color chemicals -- they might or might not have a dip and dunk line.

I'm 100% serious in suggesting trying it yourself. A C-41 kit starts around $20 (the one from Cinestill can be had in dry form, cheaper/faster shipping, same is true for at least a couple others), most will do 8-12 rolls, some more if you're willing to extend process time some. Even if you use plastic reels, you can load them under water (works fine in a darkroom sink, with a little setup, not so well in a changing bag). The only part of modern kit C-41 that's harder than B&W is temperature control, and that's not actually difficult. You'll need a water bath to temper the chemicals, and the same equipment you'd use for B&W. Color developer, water rinse or regular acid stop, blix, wash like B&W, and final rinse (works like PhotoFlo). I prefer separate bleach and fixer, but most kits combine them for simplicity.

I did color the first time on my own with Flexicolor mini-lab chemistry, no help other than the internet (which was less helpful in 2005 than it is now), and reading the instructions. It's not rocket surgery.

 

[Karl K]

Have you checked how Unique Photo processes film? They're a brick and mortar store, their web presence says they're in Fairfield, NJ. Never had film handled there myself, but they're pretty much the only US source for consumer access to lab color chemicals -- they might or might not have a dip and dunk line.

I'm 100% serious in suggesting trying it yourself. A C-41 kit starts around $20 (the one from Cinestill can be had in dry form, cheaper/faster shipping, same is true for at least a couple others), most will do 8-12 rolls, some more if you're willing to extend process time some. Even if you use plastic reels, you can load them under water (works fine in a darkroom sink, with a little setup, not so well in a changing bag). The only part of modern kit C-41 that's harder than B&W is temperature control, and that's not actually difficult. You'll need a water bath to temper the chemicals, and the same equipment you'd use for B&W. Color developer, water rinse or regular acid stop, blix, wash like B&W, and final rinse (works like PhotoFlo). I prefer separate bleach and fixer, but most kits combine them for simplicity.

I did color the first time on my own with Flexicolor mini-lab chemistry, no help other than the internet (which was less helpful in 2005 than it is now), and reading the instructions. It's not rocket surgery.

Thanks for the suggestions. Unique doesn't dip and dunk and I'm not willing to buy color chemistry or to process color film. 32 rolls is 'way too much for this old guy.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Aye, understood. And working with junky, wet, likely damaged film isn't the best way to learn to do color anyway.

I've had poor results the couple times I've processed color negative films in B&W chemicals (yes, I think twice in fifty years). XP2 Super works pretty well this way, but with color, the combination of the filter layer and orange mask makes the negatives almost unprintable. It is possible to give a very light bleaching (Farmer's Reducer) to remove the filter layer and make them at least reasonably functional for scanning. Still orange, but at least the heavy fog density of the filter layer will be gone. And if you find anything important, the option still exists to bleach with a method that rehalogenates and redevelop in color chemistry to get a color image...

 

[Karl K]

Thanks for all the feedback.
What I've decided to do, as was suggested by my local minilab owner, is to extract the film leaders and attempt to pull each individual film out of its cannister in my darkroom. If a film is easily extracted and is dry, then that film will be processed. If the film is not easily extracted, then I know it has dried and is probably stuck together.
Those rolls that are stuck together could be submerged in clean water and I could attempt to extract and dry them in a large dark box.
After that, rinse and repeat.

 

[Karl K]

Final results: I extracted three leaders from rolls that did not resist when I attempted the extractions.
The lab processed each roll separately at the end of each day to prevent chemical contamination of other films.
Those three rolls were processed and no images were printable.
I decided to stop right there because if these three rolls were not printable, then it's extremely unlikely that any of the other rolls will yield printable negatives.
So, images from 32 rolls of exposed film will never be seen.
The lab was very kind and did not charge me for all their efforts.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Well, I'm sorry to hear your results, but I'm glad you came back to provide closure.

 

[foc]

The lab was very kind and did not charge me for all their efforts.

That was very generous of the lab, fair play to them.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Ooh... that' s like when we lost 7 bulk rolls of Plus-X after the fridge defrosted. The previous photo teacher foolishly kept all the rolls in the bottom drawer where all defrosted water ended up. Apparently the rolls had been submerged for several years. Seven rolls ruined!! Even though the film was inside plastic bag, and metal container with lid taped, water still got in.

 

[faberryman]

The first thing I would ask Is what is on the film and whether it is worth a herculean effort to save.

 

[removed account4]

Final results: I extracted three leaders from rolls that did not resist when I attempted the extractions.
The lab processed each roll separately at the end of each day to prevent chemical contamination of other films.
Those three rolls were processed and no images were printable.
I decided to stop right there because if these three rolls were not printable, then it's extremely unlikely that any of the other rolls will yield printable negatives.
So, images from 32 rolls of exposed film will never be seen.
The lab was very kind and did not charge me for all their efforts.

did you toss the film ... or give it back to the people with the wet trunk ?
John

 

[Helios 1984]

What is the average ISO of these rolls and what are they? Kodak Gold, Fuji Superia?