I plan on developing the roll for him, even though he accidentally opened up the back! He told me he had only opened up for a sec, and quickly closed the back (funny, I always here that one from students!). Most of the film was on the take up spool (my guess, as it took a while for me to wind back into the canister), so hopefully the exposures deeper into the roll will be okay...but considering the age of the film, might not be okay
DX encoding was introduced in 1983 - so that would be one clue.
Here's an interesting Kodak ad from 1981
Kodak Film ad
Everything was 20 or 36 exposures, except for the one box of Kodacolor II showing 24
Any French on the cassette? That would mean it was originally sold in Canada.
The switch over to 24 exposures may have happened at different times in different markets.
I plan on developing the roll for him, even though he accidentally opened up the back! He told me he had only opened up for a sec, and quickly closed the back (funny, I always hear that one from students!). Most of the film was on the take up spool (my guess, as it took a while for me to wind back into the canister), so hopefully the exposures deeper into the roll will be okay...but considering the age of the film, might not be okay
I regularly bulk load 12-exposure rolls. It's wasteful, of course, but no more so than hurrying through the last dozen or so frames on a longer roll to finish it for developing.
An interesting idea. I might try it with my Nikon F's. But I am using my LTM Leicas almost exclusively these days. It would be too risky to use a strip of film with four cut ends and two pieces of tape when just one little bit of crud in there can sometimes necessitate a tear down to get it out.End the wastefulness from your reloading by splicing in tails and tongues of developed rolls of film.
In the bulk loader, you can open and pull out a short amount of film, the shut the light trap, and tape on a length of of clean, developed negitive.
Secure the tail to the cassette's core, and close the cassette as normal.
Wind on the amount of film you want to expose, close the light trap before exposing the roll to any light other than the Kodak film light safe green filter, open the lid and cut off a short length of film, it does not matter if it and the future tail end are crooked.
Remove the cassette, shut the closed bulk loader and in regular or safe light, trim the cassette's exposed film square, and attach the new tounge of developed film and you're done.
This will save frames of film and it would be interesting to hear from other photo.com photographers, who who will gather the materials, including, tape, tails and tongues before hand and work out the average time of how long it takes to build these loaded rolls, so others can see the short amount of time it takes to load cassettes and how easy it is.
Cheers
I've gotten really good results with old film doing semistand development in Pyrocat-HD. The oldest film I've done was some 2x3 Super-XX from 1961 and I got perfectly fine negatives! (The film itself was compromised mechanically but the photographic action was fine.) I find that 35mm Tri-X of any vintage looks best with Pyrocat-HD because the stain helps to hide the grain inherent in the film.
And that just happens to be my main developer! Thanks!
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