The steel frame bikes ride much nicer. Whoever the lucky new owner will be, for goodness sake, put some safe tires on it. The narrow tires will kill you on city streets, it only takes one little groove to cause a crash and throw you under a car's wheels. 10 speed bikes look like racers but of course they're not, the usual tires people have on them are totally inappropriate for safe riding in today's traffic and roads.
The first thing I do on any new bike is to get the skinny tires off and put the widest tires I can fit on it. Much, much safer ride, much more comfortable. You won't lose any speed, those S.F. hills will keep you in low gears anyway. I've been riding bikes and eBikes for 30-40 years as my sole form of transportation, it only takes a nano second to take you out of this world.
Sold locally via CraigsList to someone whom wanted to re-live his first bike, also a 10 speed.
These steel frame are solid and help absorb pavement irregularities.
Simple components make it easy to service if needed - truth is they rarely need nothing other than cleaning and occasional lube.
The rims dictate the tire width (1 1/8 in this case), as do the brakes. I did put new tires on it and was informed that 60psi was good (max 85). So.. there is some compression giving a bit more contact than skinny 1 inch 100psi racer tires.
Hybrid type bikes like the Kona Dr. Dew - made since the mid 2000's would be something to consider & has slightly wider tires as do all hybrids.
Assuming Cholantpot is in the Cleveland area here is a 70's 10 speed I found using searchtempest dot com
1970's Schwinn LeTour Japanese 10 speed - bicycles - by owner - bike...
Garage find, 1970's vintage, Schwinn LeTour Bike. It's all there, all original. It's a Japanese bike made for Schwinn, only several models were made in Japan or them back in the day. Please see the...cleveland.craigslist.org
I also have Japanese bike bought in 1970... A Nishiki with high grade steel frame and double butted welding and chrome lugs. Also, a 10 speed and sewup tires. Ferrari red. It's time for me to sell it....but conundrum. Here we go. Should I buy new sew up tires for the original wheels or pay a lot of money to get new wheels and high grade clinchers?
If it was me, I would have new set of 700C clincher rims (with new spokes) built onto the existing hubs. I was a bicycle mechanic for 20 years, and building wheels was my favorite part of it. There is a certain amount of skill to wheel building, so ask around to find out who does a good job in your area.
I was working in a Schwinn shop in the early 1970s and we picked up the Centurian brand. I got one of their hi-end touring models for my personal ride, and one for my wife. In 1977 we rode those Centurians 3500 miles in the western US and Canada. I carried two Pentax bodies and three lenses (slide film). If you want to see the pictures, I have them posted online <here> If you want to skip the "slideshow" (I know), and you just want to see the bikes, you can kinda see my Centurian in <this shot>. I can't believe I don't have any good detail shots of that bicycle; it was beautiful.
Ooh. Thanks.
A bit of a fixer upper but it looks serviceable.
I also have Japanese bike bought in 1970... A Nishiki with high grade steel frame and double butted welding and chrome lugs. Also, a 10 speed and sewup tires. Ferrari red. It's time for me to sell it....but conundrum. Here we go. Should I buy new sew up tires for the original wheels or pay a lot of money to get new wheels and high grade clinchers?
I also have Japanese bike bought in 1970... A Nishiki with high grade steel frame and double butted welding and chrome lugs. Also, a 10 speed and sewup tires. Ferrari red. It's time for me to sell it....but conundrum. Here we go. Should I buy new sew up tires for the original wheels or pay a lot of money to get new wheels and high grade clinchers?
To avoid confusion, I think you mean "used wheels" ?[...]
I would look for used rims for the Nishiki and current tires if I was to keep/ride it.
[...]
My previous recommendation to switch from sewups to clinchers was based on the assumption that you want to keep the bike and and ride it. Yes? No?
And also, based on the assumption that any bicycle that is made from double butted high alloy steel and came with sewups probably also has pretty good hubs, worth keeping.
Another option for someone who wants to ride the bicycle but prefers the practicality of clinchers might be to buy a second set of wheels with clincher rims. You could use the clinchers for everyday durability, and then easily swap them for the sewup wheels for fast club rides. For convenience when swapping, you would probably want a new gear cluster on the clincher wheels, too. Be aware that the way rear gear clusters attach to the hub has changed over the years, so some research may be necessary.
However, if you plan to sell the bike, my advice would be to not spend any money on it. Probably safer to try to find someone who wants the bike "as is" because a dollar spent on upgrades will probably not increase the value of a used bike by a dollar.
To avoid confusion, I think you mean "used wheels" ?
The word "rims" means just rims, no spokes and no hubs. There are no good used rims because the only reason to take off a rim is if it is bent.
That bike is identical to mine, purchased in 1979 on sale for about $110 because it was being replaced by a newer model. Good bike and good memories. I still have mine, and it's in great condition, but haven't ridden it in years.
Mark Overton
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