The current paper I am using is essentially Varigam with a few modifications - available from JandC as ADOX fineprint. I really like the look it gives as does everyone who has seen prints on this paper. In fact the worst film for printing onto this paper is XP-2 and those of that ilk.df cardwell said:BUT, like most of the developers made for a certain time, this 70 year old developer is not really anything I'd suggest for most folks. The fashion of the time was for a much higher contrast than we like today. Using TMY or Delta400, with DDX, Aculux or Xtol, you can achieve a similar look with off the shelf materials and not have to pour the energy into mastering a developer from another age, and be able to place that look on current papers without breaking your back.
df cardwell said:it would be like selecting an automobile for a weekly drive from Scotland to London: a boring modern sedan with plastic interior, a boring auto transmission and a boring 6 cyl engine... or a vintage Bentley. I suppose if I could have Jeeves or Bunter along... as well as 1938 roads, I'd go with the bentley. But for today, well, the boring sedan and hope to survive the trip.
Pictured, the automotive analogue of edwal 10:
Lachlan Young said:The current paper I am using is essentially Varigam with a few modifications - available from JandC as ADOX fineprint. I really like the look it gives as does everyone who has seen prints on this paper. In fact the worst film for printing onto this paper is XP-2 and those of that ilk.
A Bentley is very nice but I'd much rather have the new Morgan Roadster - how many cars that look like they escaped from the 1930s can get to 60mph in less than 5 seconds while using the standard Ford/Jaguar 6 cylinder unit?
Lachlan
Roger Hicks said:Is that what Moggies use now? What happened to the Rover V8?
Cheers,
R.
Dianna,
I see Christopher has already chimed in with some excellent observations on this discussion. I think we all go about this in such different ways to achieve the Vintage Hollywood look, that it's difficult to say that there is one right way to go about this. It's also important to keep in mind that with several light sources you have an opportunity for disastrously conflicting shadows. This in itself is a big obstacle to negotiate for the student.
I think someone mentioned earlier that George would rub oil on his subjects but in reality that was rarely necessary as the subject was already sweating from the heat generated from the lights. He liked to keep the sweat on the subject then blend that on the negative with dyes for the Hurrell Glow that we all have come to love. He would also use crushed lead to create the burnished effect that is also an earmark of the Hurrell look.
I create my images more and more with digital (duck and cover) but I still use my Linhof Super Technika and vintage lenses, including a Verito and an Imagon for a beautiful glow right at the pull of the trigger.
You can practice good lighting technique very cheaply with nothing more than cheap Home Depot parabolic work lights, some cardboard and pony clamps for light control. This is how I started then rewarded myself with some more expensive Moles, B&M Keg Lights and even the modern Desisty fresnels once I got a handle on controlling my light and their ratios.
What I'm hearin' here is that quite possibly they weren't that purty?
Dave, with the right lights and an 18" Cooke, we could even make you look good!
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