127 film and red windows

[meltronic]

I've read that the only 127 b&w films available are Efke 100 and Maco 100, which is supposedly rebadged Efke. The problem with Efke is that the backing paper is a bit too translucent to use with red window frame counter cameras. Does the rebadged Maco UP 100 use a heavier backing paper, or will this film have the same problems with red windows? Yours, Matt

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've used one roll of Efke 100 in 127 (yeah, I know, small sample) and had no trouble, even with sunlight falling directly on the (light amber) window on several occasions.

I've gotten the impression that Efke got hold of *one* batch of bad paper, but due to warhousing practices it keeps popping up on current dated film from time to time.

However, I've been recutting 120 to 127, which works very well if you have spools -- I found reversing the film while respooling lets me use the 6x4.5 track for 4x4 and the 6x6 track for 4x6.5 (that one requires masking the camera a little) but this way I get a huge selection of emulsions...

 

[glennfromwy]

I've not had a problem with it.Just be sure to load and unload the camera in subdued light and only open the red windows in the shade. If the windows don't have a sliding cover, keep them covered with black tape when not winding. Be aware that Efke backing paper does not fit as tightly against the spool flanges as domestic films did. Keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid edge fogging.

 

[battra92]

I've not had a problem with it.Just be sure to load and unload the camera in subdued light and only open the red windows in the shade. If the windows don't have a sliding cover, keep them covered with black tape when not winding. Be aware that Efke backing paper does not fit as tightly against the spool flanges as domestic films did. Keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid edge fogging.

As someone once told me, handle Efke films like they were 1600 films. Glenn's suggestions are great but you may also want to get some 120 canisters from J&C for your stash. Or, go buy some M&M minis.

 

[127]

Never had any problems.

I've never covered the window, and on one occasion I had a problem like this it looked more like ink transfer than exposure through the paper.

Of course it never hurts to be a little carefull - keep any red-window camera out of the sun.

(and use the green window if you have one - far more effective. Red window is a throw back to orthochromatic film - for pan film red has no advantages, and infact green is better as your eye is more sensitive).

Ian

 

[k_jupiter]

Never had any problems.

I've never covered the window, and on one occasion I had a problem like this it looked more like ink transfer than exposure through the paper.

Of course it never hurts to be a little carefull - keep any red-window camera out of the sun.

(and use the green window if you have one - far more effective. Red window is a throw back to orthochromatic film - for pan film red has no advantages, and infact green is better as your eye is more sensitive).

Ian

Or.. buy a Yashica 44 with mechanical advance. You use the red window to find the number '1'. Nice camera and lens by the way.

tim in san jose

 

[DBP]

Or.. buy a Yashica 44 with mechanical advance. You use the red window to find the number '1'. Nice camera and lens by the way.

tim in san jose

What's the story with the aperture numbers on the 44? I've seen two examples so far, and both were missing the marks, which makes proper exposure a bit dicey.

 

[battra92]

Or.. buy a Yashica 44 with mechanical advance. You use the red window to find the number '1'. Nice camera and lens by the way.

tim in san jose

That it is. Too bad my 44 has a broken aperature and it looks like someone tried fixing it and giving up half way. I'm torn between selling it for parts and buying a restored or premium one or having it repaired.