$1230 USD for a Nikon F3 eye level + 2 lenses justified?

• Internal Dust: Some visible to the naked eye.
• Fungus: None.
• Haze: None.
• Balsam Separation: None.
• Scratches: Visible under strong light. Will not affect performance.
• Focusing Screen: Some minor marks.
• Functionality: No functional issues.

• Glass elements are scratch-free, fungus-free, haze-free, and show no signs of internal damage or wear.

• Internal Dust: Not visible to the naked eye.
• Fungus: None.
• Scratches: None.
• Balsam Separation: None.
• Haze: Slightly visible under strong light, evenly spread inside the glass. Will not affect image quality.
• Functionality: No functional issues.

GregY said:

That seems pretty high.... a quick look at Ebay tells me you could get and F3 with a 28 f3.5 for as little as $350 ...or an F3 with a motor drive and a 50 1.4 for $365. The 85 mm f2.... roughly $200......
Individually. $750 -800 max....being selective about the lenses. shipping from Japan is cheap...you may get bundled shipping cost for $100 max
$1230 usd seems very high to me....just making quick choices.

Click to expand...

mshchem said:

F3 cameras in mint condition are definitely more expensive than a few years ago. If you are buying in person that could effect prices. I wouldn't pay that much.

Click to expand...

Mick Fagan said:

I'm a bit out of touch of international prices for the F3 body, but it does seem to be a bit on the high side.

Is it an F3HP? this is certainly a better camera if you wear spectacles.

The viewing screen is changeable, in fact I bought my first and later second F3HP bodies in Waiblingen Germany with the type E screens fitted, with the original screen in the little case the E screens came in. This was in March/April 1985 for the first body.

The 85mm f/2.0 lens is not nearly as good as the 85 f/1.4. Quite a big difference in contrast, and close focusing ability. I borrowed the 85mm f/2 and the 85mm f/1.4 for a time, and found the f/2 soft compared to the f/1.4, so I bought the f/1.4 version and have never regretted it.

You don't say where the camera is which could be a factor in pricing. From where I live, Japan is a reasonably good source for F3 bodies, Germany is also a great place to pick them up, but they are usually more expensive by a reasonable margin compared to the Japanese sourced units.

Click to expand...

nostalgia said:

I honestly don't know the current market value. I haven't bought a vintage analog camera in quite a while...
This is the set I'm considering, and I'd like to know if $1,230 USD is a justified price. The amount includes shipping, taxes, and duties:

I would really appreciate any insight and advice!
Thank you all very much in advance!

---

Body – Nikon F3
Grade: Near Mint – Second-hand, with a few signs of use.

Optic/Viewfinder Condition:

• Internal Dust: Some visible to the naked eye.
• Fungus: None.
• Haze: None.
• Balsam Separation: None.
• Scratches: Visible under strong light. Will not affect performance.
• Focusing Screen: Some minor marks.
• Functionality: No functional issues.

---

Lens 1 – Nikon Ai-S Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 (Later version with CRC)
Grade: Near Mint – Has been carefully used, with a few cosmetic marks or scratches. Fully functional.

• Glass elements are scratch-free, fungus-free, haze-free, and show no signs of internal damage or wear.

---

Lens 2 – Nikon Ai-S Nikkor 85mm f/2
Grade: Near Mint – Second-hand, with minimal signs of use.

Lens Condition:

• Internal Dust: Not visible to the naked eye.
• Fungus: None.
• Scratches: None.
• Balsam Separation: None.
• Haze: Slightly visible under strong light, evenly spread inside the glass. Will not affect image quality.
• Functionality: No functional issues.

Click to expand...

nostalgia said:

Are they really in mint or near-mint condition? The parts I’m looking at are actually selectively chosen from Japan. They’re in very good condition. I was only able to find some really minor scratches on the body in the high-res images—so from 10cm away, I doubt anyone would even notice it was used. I think they actually describe it as worse than it is.

Click to expand...

GregY said:

N, There are thousands available. Looking at ebay you can find any number in the 369-400 range that look virtually unused. They are workhorses & I used one with a motor drive for many yrs. Neither of the two lenses you mention are particularly special.... good lenses but not expensive. I've bought many cameras & lenses from Japan and they're reliable sellers in general. Your price does seem like top dollar....
I know if priced like that in a Canadian store....it would sit a long long time.
Here's a boxed F3 for $599 ....

[MINT+++ in Box] Nikon F3 Eye Level Black SLR 35mm Film Camera Body from JAPAN | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for [MINT+++ in Box] Nikon F3 Eye Level Black SLR 35mm Film Camera Body from JAPAN at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Click to expand...

F4U said:

No. absolutely not.

Click to expand...

• Body: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/306494057040
• Lens: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/326773083697

Mick Fagan said:

Quite a good video, my requirements were detail and sharpness in a low light environment when I bought mine about 30-33 years ago. Contrast was also a bonus, with the f/1.4.

But I see your point, it will do for your requirements.

As the F3 viewfinder shows 100%, the HP finder is designed so that your eye can be up to about 20mm to 25mm away, and you can still see the whole 100%. The HP finder is certainly easier to use, but the original finder should work just as well for you without spectacles.

If you do purchase an F3 body, then over time you may wish to add the odd viewfinder or two. The waist level finder is brilliant for travelling (it takes up very little room), you can hold the camera upside down over head and still focus (from a distance) or you can use the 6 x magnification focus pop-out lens for ultra critical focus. Plus, you can literally have the body up against a wall and use the waist level finder for focusing, then you walk away and use the self timer to trip the shutter. I have all 6 viewfinders and have used all of them over the years; took me about 15 years to get all of them though.

My experience with Japanese sourced camera lenses and two F3 bodies for other people, has been excellent.

Click to expand...

nostalgia said:

I'm still missing a good portrait lens that doesn't break the bank and is readily available. And a good, really small bag. I'll only be carrying the body with the 28mm lens and a portrait lens in that bag.


Any suggestions for AI-S lenses and bags are more than welcome!

Click to expand...

GregY said:

105mm 2.5 nikkor AI or AIS.
World class lens

Click to expand...

Mick Fagan said:

Depends really on focal length, there are quite a few variables, which to some extent, depend upon what exactly you are wishing to get.

85mm and 105mm are the two best focal lengths for portraiture work in my opinion, with 135mm being a longish third possibility. I have also used an f/2.8 180 with ED glass for head and shoulder stuff, mostly tripod mounted, but occasionally handheld.

I've walked around European cities a reasonable amount and for travel I mostly take a 24mm my 50 f/1.8 and the 105 f/2.5. With things disassembled I can carry the body in a coat pocket as well as two lenses in another pocket, usually the 24 and 50. All three take 52mm filters, which is a requirement for me.


Here you have 105mm and literally a few seconds later 85mm on another body, these were taken in the back yard. Note the subtle differences in the background and the length of the face/head in apparent focus.

Different View

This was taken about 2 minutes after the previous haircut picture, but with the 105 lens to add some compression.

www.photrio.com

Smiling for the new haircut

Another picture of my previous model, taken in the backyard about 15 minutes after having her hair cut.

www.photrio.com

This one is 105mm

Nancy (pronounced, "Nuncee")

This is a slightly better version of the postcard that you all received. The head dress, her right forehead and cheek, her right shoulder and the general background have been burnt in. The curls sticking out from the head dress, her left cheek...

www.photrio.com

This one is 85mm and if you read my description, you will see why I changed to the 105mm.

ADOX MCC 111 paper test

This is my test print that I printed using the Beta paper sent to me by ADOX, albeit a softer grade to allow for the contrast snap encountered when scanning from a print. Under the Agfa ADOX MCC 111 revival thread, you can read my report as to...

www.photrio.com

This is an ED glass f/2.8 180mm lens exposed at f/4. Scan from my darkroom print.

Pinup

I took this at a fair a few years ago, I was trying to get a fairly neutral background, partially succeeded, although I did have to burn in the coloured, light, lights, in the immediate area behind his head. Vey rarely do any of the paid...

www.photrio.com

My most used lens for portraiture in 35mm photography is the 85mm, it just works. You are far enough away from the person to not intimidate them, yet the focal length allows you to sort of get close; if you get my drift. Full body portraiture is best done with the 85mm, The 85mm is also great for bust and head shots. The 105 is perfect for a bust portrait, while the 135mm is almost always best for a head shot, as is the 180mm.

Click to expand...