Aggie;
which scanner? there is more than one version of that model.
I am toying with the idea about getting one. I took a SX-70 print into my dealer and they get $20 per scan, putting it on a disc costing $5, This does not include a print. Altho, playing with the SX-70 is just that; playing, it would only take 20 to run up a tidy bill of 400.
As I am going to do a project later in the summer using this process, it gives me pause to think I will spend that much for a disc full of "playful images".
Brace yourself, 'cause I'm likely to take you up on it once I'm ready with real questions. Right now I'm busy in the REAL darkroom, trying to get a few prints into final form for a birthday gift for a friend. It's just I noticed that questions posted to moribund threads (here and elswhere) tend not to get much response, so I'm trying to strike while the iron is still hot. I have no doubt that PS will do everything I need -- and a whole lot more, which may be the daunting problem. I won't know until I really have time to play with it.
you are correct about being robbed. I told my usual sales person that was crazy. She agreed, but you know how that is.
B & H shows two versions of that scanner, a pro version and ????????. It would appear by the specs that the pro version has additional software packaged in. I am going to have one of my students (a computer wiz) check out the specs. I was also thinking of the 1680. However, as this is just a casual project I want to keep the cost down to just a finger, not an arm or leg. Am just an old fashion darkroom "rat".
Well I am certainly the last person to offer give advice on the scanner issue as I am totally ignorant, but when ever I need a scan I just go to an internet cafe and get it done, cost? $1.5 and hour plus the disk. Of course I can only scan prints, and they usually look horrible, but heck, what can you expect for a buck fifity..?
thanks, the 1680 is a lot more money. I just want to scan some sx-70 film and perhaps some other Polariod materials. I have Photoshop but not a clue to "how to". Thought perhaps this medium would be a method to learn a bit about the software.
Actually if you want more control, do it 48 bit, do your levels adjustments then convert to 24 bit. You will get smoother tones, the histogram will not show the choppy appearance it would have otherwise. Like using finer grain film with this maneuver.