¿Missing contact? Olympus OM2

Hello,

i have a OM2 which seems to work perfectly, but the camera doesn't recognize the new batteries. I have just bought new Silver Oxide Battery SR44W. I pressed the check button, first the light when on and off for like 2-3 times, then nothing. There is a missing contact somwhere. Is it very bad? Do you think the problem can be solved or it is better to buy a new camera? I always have problem with old cameras, I had an OM20 which I replaced because I lost many films because of a problem while rewinding the film... Actually I am starting to get nervous, maybe the camera feels my nervousity hahaha.

Anyway it would be great if you could give me an advice, any advice is good! I feel really lost in this world. I love old camera but i think i have some kind of vodoo curse upon me.

Thank you so much!

Gabrielle

Hi and welcome.
You said your OM-2 "seems to work perfectly". How do you know that?
The original OM-2 and the OM-2N wouldn't work without a battery.
Have you read the manual?
Did you insert the batteries properly?
Is the battery compartment clean and free of any acid marks?

Here is a manual for you to read: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_om-2/olympus_om-2.htm

Hello! thanks for your answer.

Well when I say the camera seems to work well I mean in term of it's mechanism. No elements seem to be damaged etc. But of course I am not 100% sure. Yes I read the manual, the batteries are inserted correctly. The manual said the batteries need to be cold, so yesterday I put them for a while outside and then in the camera again, I turned to check and the light when red once, I tried to see if it worked, I shot twice and then the mirror got blocked.

How can I know if the compartment is clean? Is there a way to clean it?

For some reason your batteries went flat. That's what it looks like. That's why I asked if batteries were correctly inserted.
You can try with cheap LR44, just for testing.
The meter will give wrong exposures after a while of using the alkaline batteries.
The manual has the procedure to unlock the mirror.
Pretty much, just set the shutter ring to B if you have the -2. With the -2N just set the lever to Check/Reset. Do this without batteries in the camera.
I would send the camera to a repairer.
Good luck!

Gabri said:

Hello! thanks for your answer.

Well when I say the camera seems to work well I mean in term of it's mechanism. No elements seem to be damaged etc. But of course I am not 100% sure. Yes I read the manual, the batteries are inserted correctly. The manual said the batteries need to be cold, so yesterday I put them for a while outside and then in the camera again, I turned to check and the light when red once, I tried to see if it worked, I shot twice and then the mirror got blocked.

How can I know if the compartment is clean? Is there a way to clean it?

Click to expand...

The mirror staying up is consistent with a bad battery (batteries are not the only thing that could be the cause, but the most common).

First, I don't remember every seeing in the manual that batteries should be cold. If they are very cold, their output is reduced. So try them again at room temp.

Second, I realize your original post said they were SR44 silver oxide, but are they actually marked SR44? Sometimes a dealer will not be aware of the difference.

Third, the spring contact at the bottom should be bright and shiny. If not, and you see green residue, wide it off as best you can with vinegar on a cotton swab. An ink eraser works as does a bit of emery cloth glued to a pencil eraser. Or fold the very end of an emory board so it can be held against the spring and rotated. Make sure the underside of the battery cover is clean too.

Finally, you might try lifting up gently on the spring contact if it appears flat against the bottom of the battery compartment. Not too much though.

Sounds like you have dead cells. Before going thru anything else, try new ones and see if that fixes the problem.

And batteries/cells should never be deliberately cold. Their performance is always better at warmer temperatures.

Gabri said:

The manual said the batteries need to be cold, so yesterday I put them for a while outside and then in the camera again

Click to expand...

I just looked at the copy of the OM2 manual I have and it doesn't recommend cold batteries. I'm wondering if we have a communication difference here.

I'm not sure about the recommendation for trying some LR44 batteries as a test. The OP may be experiencing problems that could be mimicked by batteries with incorrect voltage - which is the problem with the alkaline versions of the batteries.

If new fresh SR44 went flat in a few minutes the camera may have a fault you need a multi meter set to current and another two fresh SR44.

Put batteries in correct way around into compartment and instead of screwing in battery cover apply one lead of meter to centre of top battery and the other to baseplate tripod socket the camera should not draw much current set the multi meter to a high current range for first test. Then repeat more sensitive until you get a reading.

The service current for a dormant camera switched off is less than a micro amp.

The OM2 does not need to be switched on normally.

If the off or on current is enough to deplete a battery promptly there is a problem needing a service.

The OM1s are more easy (<$) to repair. I'd not buy an OM2.

O

Xmas said:

If new fresh SR44 went flat in a few minutes the camera may have a fault you need a multi meter set to current and another two fresh SR44.

Put batteries in correct way around into compartment and instead of screwing in battery cover apply one lead of meter to centre of top battery and the other to baseplate tripod socket the camera should not draw much current set the multi meter to a high current range for first test. Then repeat more sensitive until you get a reading.

The service current for a dormant camera switched off is less than a micro amp.

The OM2 does not need to be switched on normally.

If the off or on current is enough to deplete a battery promptly there is a problem needing a service.

The OM1s are more easy (<$) to repair. I'd not buy an OM2.

Click to expand...

oops milli amp sorry