the warning it gives is that the yellowing does come back after UV clearing but I could see no mention of how long this re-yellowing takes.
As long as it did originally. A couple of decades.
the warning it gives is that the yellowing does come back after UV clearing but I could see no mention of how long this re-yellowing takes.
From what I read, probably Google AI, the warning it gives is that the yellowing does come back after UV clearing but I could see no mention of how long this re-yellowing takes. As no-one has mentioned this, it may be a wrong statement so can I ask, has anyone who has successfully cleared a thorium noticed this effect?
Thanks
pentaxuser
I had a Takumar 6x7 105 mm f/2.4 S-M-C with evident yellowing. I put the Ikea lamp for 2 weeks, some was removed but not completely. Another week more and there was no change.
It was not much, but I could noticed the yellowing when I changed the lens and put other without thorium.
It requires UV or short wavelength blue light to have sufficient energy to start the reaction. EM radiation is more energetic as the wavelength gets shorter. UV will probably be better than blue.You can use regular light instead of sunlight. I'm not sure where the idea that it had to be UV light came from. I put my 50mm f1.4 SMC Takumar under an LED lamp for about a week and it is completely clear now.
Same experience here: I bought the Ikea lamp, and one week later there is only small reduction in yellowness. I'm considering a dedicated UV flashlight, which could be used for UV photography as well.
Let the yellow stay on as a filter for black and white film.
As long as it did originally. A couple of decades.
From what I read, probably Google AI, the warning it gives is that the yellowing does come back after UV clearing but I could see no mention of how long this re-yellowing takes. As no-one has mentioned this, it may be a wrong statement so can I ask, has anyone who has successfully cleared a thorium noticed this effect?
Thanks
pentaxuser

When pointed out you're wrong, there are a couple of possible responses:
3 & 4 can be entertaining, for sure, but tend to leave a lot of noise in a place like this.
- Quietly shuffle off
- "Gee, I didn't realize that"
- Put up a charade referring to some rare and in the context irrelevant exception in an attempt to save face
- Go full on delusional and actually believe the stuff you make up
I believe that the Farbe center's (yellowing) will come back if you leave the lens in the dark again.
Then you clear it again.![]()
Why do you believe this? Have you seen it happen?
Theory, not observation.Physics
We can hypothesize that a brick dropped from a high building will land on the surface of the earth. That's just theory, not observation. It's also a physical reality.Theory, not observation.
Thorium‑232 has a half‑life of about 14 billion years, so it keeps emitting ionizing radiation essentially forever. That radiation continuously creates color centers in the glass, which means that even after you clear the yellowing with strong UV, the discoloration will inevitably return at the same rate as before.
We can hypothesize that a brick dropped from a high building will land on the surface of the earth. That's just theory, not observation. It's also a physical reality.
Yes, it does. It's the cause.The 232Th half life you quoted is true. But and however that has nothing to do with the rate at which it creates color centers in glass.
Not to the question how the rate of yellowing in a (back then) new lens compares to the rate of yellowing today, several decades into the game.Those kinds of questions might also be pertinent
I think that's a reasonable guess. I'd add one more thought to it: photon energy. This correlates with wavelength and blue photos are thus less energetic than ones in the UV bands. There may be a threshold energy required to bump the stray electrons back into place and allow the matrix to relax. This likely depends on the material and perhaps on the type of F-center. I fed the question into AI (sketchy, of course) and it comes up with a range of 2.5-3.5eV, which encompasses the longer UVA wavelengths and the blue spectrum. It also alleges that UV is more efficient; this seems to make sense when taken at face value given the higher energy involved, which would make it more likely that an exposure event has the desired effect. I think it's a reasonable assumption that UV will work better, but that blue might get the job done provided sufficient exposure is given.My guess is that since the color of the dislocations absorbs blue-ish light as well as UV, blue-ish light may result in enough absorptions to eventually repair the damage
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