Minolta Spotmeter F

[RalphLambrecht]

I got one of the above but after 40 years, and the last 20 in inactivity, it has given up the ghost; I did the typical things (fresh batteries, on/off a few times, but nothing). The display is stuck on '0 EV and it take a measurement. I can change the ISO and all measuring modes, but I can't take a reading. I noticed that all buttons on the left are lost when pushed. Thet lost the firm response. Any ideas and a repair place suggestion for Germany?

 

[aconbere]

I got one of the above but after 40 years, and the last 20 in inactivity, it has given up the ghost; I did the typical things (fresh batteries, on/off a few times, but nothing). The display is stuck on '0 EV and it take a measurement. I can change the ISO and all measuring modes, but I can't take a reading. I noticed that all buttons on the left are lost when pushed. Thet lost the firm response. Any ideas and a repair place suggestion for Germany?

The spotmeter F buttons are standard membrane style buttons (like on a game controller). Its common with game pads for the membranes to get out of position, for the conductive ink to become dirty, for pcbs to crack, and or for posts to break.

If it were me I’d open the meter (video online does not make this look hard), and simply inspect and clean the membranes and the pads on the pcb, reassemble and see if that does the trick.

Not being able to take a reading makes me think of how the meter behaves when it’s still in set ISO mode. Just double checking that you’re able to move it between ISO and Time modes as the meter will not take readings while in ISO setting mode.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

The spotmeter F buttons are standard membrane style buttons (like on a game controller). Its common with game pads for the membranes to get out of position, for the conductive ink to become dirty, for pcbs to crack, and or for posts to break.

If it were me I’d open the meter (video online does not make this look hard), and simply inspect and clean the membranes and the pads on the pcb, reassemble and see if that does the trick.

Not being able to take a reading makes me think of how the meter behaves when it’s still in set ISO mode. Just double checking that you’re able to move it between ISO and Time modes as the meter will not take readings while in ISO setting mode.

that was it. you fixed it and removed one of my headaches.thanks a lot!

 

[eli griggs]

that was it. you fixed it and removed one of my headaches.thanks a lot!

Good to hear.

I’ve got a Pentax V but I like the Minolta Spotmeter interface better and would buy one if the condition and function were good.

 

[aconbere]

that was it. you fixed it and removed one of my headaches.thanks a lot!

Cheers!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've had mine for over 30 years. Great meter.

 

[BMbikerider]

The Minolta Spot-meters were one of the shining lights in the accessories made by them. I had mine stolen some years back and have never found another in as good a condition. I replaced it with a Minolta autometer 3 which came with a semi spot attachment (I think about 10degree reading instead of 1 degree) and have found that to be also 100% reliable. They are both real gems.

 

[eli griggs]

The Minolta Spot-meters were one of the shining lights in the accessories made by them. I had mine stolen some years back and have never found another in as good a condition. I replaced it with a Minolta autometer 3 which came with a semi spot attachment (I think about 10degree reading instead of 1 degree) and have found that to be also 100% reliable. They are both real gems.

I had a M and it was a great tool.

I'd forgo a "F" type for a "M" if the M is in great working order, but, i heard the M hermatictly sealed and a cracked shell can result in a false reading.

Has anyone heard similar about the Minolta spotmeters?

 

[rsj1360]

The spotmeter F buttons are standard membrane style buttons (like on a game controller). Its common with game pads for the membranes to get out of position, for the conductive ink to become dirty, for pcbs to crack, and or for posts to break.

If it were me I’d open the meter (video online does not make this look hard), and simply inspect and clean the membranes and the pads on the pcb, reassemble and see if that does the trick.

Not being able to take a reading makes me think of how the meter behaves when it’s still in set ISO mode. Just double checking that you’re able to move it between ISO and Time modes as the meter will not take readings while in ISO setting mode.

Hi - can you share a link to the video you mentioned (I can't seem to find it). Also, what would you use to clean the membranes and pads?

Thanks

 

[eli griggs]

My recollection is the Minolta M or F meters are hermetically sealed and I’m not sure how they should fair if these are sealed and that seal is broken.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

The Minolta Spot Metre F is not hermetically sealed... That is why so many fail after about 30 odd years. Mine has been all over the globe, in many different climates. Probably bound to fail... and it did.

 

[mshchem]

The Minolta Spot Metre F is not hermetically sealed... That is why so many fail after about 30 odd years. Mine has been all over the globe, in many different climates. Probably bound to fail... and it did.

So it was working in December and now it's not??? Must be a rift in the temporal continuum.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

So it was working in December and now it's not??? Must be a rift in the temporal continuum.

Yup! The LED screen just suddenly went all garbled... Even going cross-eyed didn't help. I loved that metre.... er meter.

 

[eli griggs]

Buy a replacement with warranty, for example, from KEH, and treat it like family.

 

[mshchem]

Yup! The LED screen just suddenly went all garbled... Even going cross-eyed didn't help. I loved that metre.... er meter.

I have one, I usually just grab a Minolta incident meter (metre) I'm not doing anything much more complicated than shooting 120 for ordinary enlarging. I watch your videos, amazing! Looking forward to the Catlabs 80 vs Foma 100.
I really love Ilford films, but Foma makes really nice products

 

[aconbere]

Hi - can you share a link to the video you mentioned (I can't seem to find it). Also, what would you use to clean the membranes and pads?

Thanks

Pretty sure I was referencing this one:



I usually try to remember to actually paste in the links I reference and this is why

For cleaning the rubber side of the pads: If they are visibly dirty I’ll take them out and clean them in some warm water with a dot of mild dish soap. Then when fully dry you can restore the surface finish of the pad by giving it a little “smear” across some clean plain paper. (it will leave a little sooty streak).

For the pcb contacts a q-tip and iso propyl-alcohol are what I would recommend.

 

[rsj1360]

Pretty sure I was referencing this one:



I usually try to remember to actually paste in the links I reference and this is why

For cleaning the rubber side of the pads: If they are visibly dirty I’ll take them out and clean them in some warm water with a dot of mild dish soap. Then when fully dry you can restore the surface finish of the pad by giving it a little “smear” across some clean plane paper. (it will leave a little sooty streak).

For the pcb contacts a que-tip and iso propyl-alcohol are what I would recommend.

Thank you very much. I'll have a look.

 

[grant.goodes]

Thank you very much. I'll have a look.

Pretty sure I was referencing this one:



I usually try to remember to actually paste in the links I reference and this is why

For cleaning the rubber side of the pads: If they are visibly dirty I’ll take them out and clean them in some warm water with a dot of mild dish soap. Then when fully dry you can restore the surface finish of the pad by giving it a little “smear” across some clean plain paper. (it will leave a little sooty streak).

For the pcb contacts a q-tip and iso propyl-alcohol are what I would recommend.

Useful guide to dis- and re-assembly, but the guy got lucky in that there was a single bad-solder that fixed the issue. In general, you are correct about fixing issues with rubber switch-pads. I also find use of very-fine steel wool on the copper pads and application of a little dielectric grease helpful.

 

[aconbere]

Useful guide to dis- and re-assembly, but the guy got lucky in that there was a single bad-solder that fixed the issue. In general, you are correct about fixing issues with rubber switch-pads. I also find use of very-fine steel wool on the copper pads and application of a little dielectric grease helpful.

Yes, don’t take my link as an endorsement to the video. Only as a reasonably detailed look at the process of disassembly. (I am and was far away from my own copy and I am unable to provide my own description )

 

[grant.goodes]

Yes, don’t take my link as an endorsement to the video. Only as a reasonably detailed look at the process of disassembly. (I am and was far away from my own copy and I am unable to provide my own description )

No, I think it was a very helpful video to post, and thanks for doing so! Just wish all my repair jobs were as easy as 10seconds with the soldering iron (even though he burned himself in the process -- not that I've never done that!)

 

[DREW WILEY]

My Minolta F was stolen too. It was a nice instrument which read identically to my Pentax Digital Spotmeters, so I stuck with those, which are faster and more intuitive for me to use anyway,