Which developer for old glass plates?

[moggi1964]

I plan to shoot a project starting this year on my Voigtlander Bergheil 9x12 using old stock dry plates from various points in the last century.

I typically use DDX at 1:4 for my B&W film processing but wondered if there might be a better option for these old plates? Would they benefit from a less 'aggressive' solution (DDX 1:9) or something like a Pyrocat/510 Pyro?

When I shot some old (1960's) plates on my 4x5 I used DDX and shot them at ISO2.5 and they came out okay but I wanted to check if a different developer might be better suited.

Thanks.

 

[ntenny]

I’ve used HC-110 for fog control with old plates. Older ones are often ortho, so you can develop by inspection, but for pan plates you’ll have to do some guessing.

-NT

 

[moggi1964]

I’ve used HC-110 for fog control with old plates. Older ones are often ortho, so you can develop by inspection, but for pan plates you’ll have to do some guessing.

-NT

Thank you.

Fortunately I have 36 of the HP3 from the same source so I am hopeful that after a few experiments I should be able to get it right and have enough plates left for the actual pictures.

 

[JensH]

Hi,

old plates or films are fun! Expect some surprises...
I used Rodinal here, HC110 should be fine, too.
Don't use developers with carbonate, the image may lift off the glass.

 

[moggi1964]

Thanks. Keeping my fingers crossed

 

[Romanko]

HC-110 in dilution B (or even higher concentration) is generally recommended for controlling fog. Use lower temperatures if your development time is shorter than 5 minutes to avoid uneven development. I experimented with temperatures as low as 6 degrees Celsius and HC-110 still worked fine. There is a formula for calculating development time for HC-110 at any temperature if you know the corresponding time at any other temperature.

 

[Romanko]

You can make a step wedge by extracting the dark slide in small steps (~5 mm) and taking multiple exposures of a white or grey card. This way you can be systematic with choosing the development time and optimize it for fog levels, contrast and maximum negative density.

From my experience, the development time recommended by the manufacturer for the fresh film is a very good starting point. Pulling the film at least one stop is a good idea.

 

[Jojje]

I've used vigorous developers with my old plates. Something self mixed (ID-33) or Rodinal 1+25, even paper developer might be good, haven't tried myself, though. I've had good results with Ilford plates not so much with Kodak.
Have fun!
https://flickr.com/photos/jojjek/albums/72157720150824524/

 

[moggi1964]

Thank you all for the thoughtful suggestions and encouragement. I had thought about a step-wedge idea (though didn't know that it was called that) so thanks for that.

 

[Daniel Stuefer]

I've used D-19 (stock) + some benzotriazole with some old plates I had.
D-19 is a high-contrast developer, which I found to work best plates handcoated with my own emulsions, and it turned out it worked great with the old plates as well once I added some BZT to reduce the fog.

 

[Romanko]

I plan to shoot a project starting this year on my Voigtlander Bergheil 9x12 using old stock dry plates from various points in the last century.

Please share your images here.
I have a few type 124 roll-film folders that can also take 9x12 cm glass plates (film). I had great fun shooting tests on Foma Pan 100 9x12 film (with a sheet film adapter in the holder).

 

[moggi1964]

I've used D-19 (stock) + some benzotriazole with some old plates I had.
D-19 is a high-contrast developer, which I found to work best plates handcoated with my own emulsions, and it turned out it worked great with the old plates as well once I added some BZT to reduce the fog.

Thank you. Something else to consider.

 

[moggi1964]

Please share your images here.
I have a few type 124 roll-film folders that can also take 9x12 cm glass plates (film). I had great fun shooting tests on Foma Pan 100 9x12 film (with a sheet film adapter in the holder).

I definitely will. Probably be late Sping/Summer. I had previously shot a few 4x5 plates which produced interesting results but figured I should seek advice for the project.

 

[JensH]

Hi, be prepared they may need much more light than expected.

... Add about 5 stops exposure and tray develop under red safelight in HC-110 dil B at a cold temperature like 60F. Watch for image / fog to form and pull before the fog gets too bad. Stop and fix (about 5 minutes in rapid fixer)

Give them a lot of light, 3 asa or below.

 

[moggi1964]

Hi, be prepared they may need much more light than expected.

Thank you. I shot my old 4x5 plates at 2.5ISO and the results were encouraging. Part of the reason I am waiting to start the project till Spring and Summer arrive.

I'll experiment from 10 downwards and see what I get.