Voigtländer Vag Maintenance Questions from a noob

[giantelf]

I recently came into possession of a Voigtländer VAG with a Rollex film back. I hope this is the correct forum. It is a plate camera but as it i outfitted with the Rollex I intend to use 120 film for now. It is in excellent — but aged — condition. It is a bit dusty. The ground glass looks fine (there is a dent on the rim). The shutter fires and the bellows are in great shape. No light leaks that I could see. It appears to work — the shutter at least. We shall see what photos come of it.

But I have some noob questions —

• How might I clean it?
• What is okay and not okay to use?
• Is compressed air ok to use?
• Isopropyl alcohol? Or just soapy water? Or is that bad? The lettering and number is engraved but the white paint is fading or rubbed away — I do not want to damage that any further.
• There is white dust inside the bellows on the backside of the shutter -- what is it and how to remove. Photo attached.
• The mirror on the viewfinder is spitted and pitted can that be replaced or cleaned?
• Are there any parts that need lubrication? It slides a bit stiffly along the rails. But does move.
• Do I need to do anything to the bellows to keep them in pristine condition?
• I would really like to clean and polish the chrome parts so they shine again. No real rust but they are dull.
• How would I deal with rust of there is any?

Finally — the shutter cable release that came with it worked for two presses and then gave up the ghost. I was not surprised as the fabric is almost 100 years old.

• Can I use a modern cable release?
• Is the threading the same? (I guess I could get one and find out.)
• Do you have any suggestions for a cable release for this old of a camera?

Thank you in advance for dealing with and understaffing my ignorance. This is a new hobby and I wish to learn by trying and not just dropping it off to a camera repair shop and paying to have it made like new. For a Voigtländer it is not that rare or expensive. So good to learn on. I have not found a manual online -- but have seen one for the Avus which is similar but not 100% -- so I will be posting some operational questions as well separately.

On that note — any suggestion for film? I plan on shooting architecture mostly while I learn the ins and outs. And perhaps some portraits of my daughters.


Thank you.

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• giantelf
• Feb 7, 2026

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• giantelf
• Feb 7, 2026

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• giantelf
• Feb 7, 2026

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• giantelf
• Feb 7, 2026

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• giantelf
• Feb 7, 2026

 

[loccdor]

• How might I clean it?
• What is okay and not okay to use?
• Is compressed air ok to use?
• Isopropyl alcohol? Or just soapy water? Or is that bad? The lettering and number is engraved but the white paint is fading or rubbed away — I do not want to damage that any further.
• There is white dust inside the bellows on the backside of the shutter -- what is it and how to remove. Photo attached.
• The mirror on the viewfinder is spitted and pitted can that be replaced or cleaned?
• Are there any parts that need lubrication? It slides a bit stiffly along the rails. But does move.
• Do I need to do anything to the bellows to keep them in pristine condition?
• I would really like to clean and polish the chrome parts so they shine again. No real rust but they are dull.
• How would I deal with rust of there is any?

Finally — the shutter cable release that came with it worked for two presses and then gave up the ghost. I was not surprised as the fabric is almost 100 years old.

• Can I use a modern cable release?
• Is the threading the same? (I guess I could get one and find out.)
• Do you have any suggestions for a cable release for this old of a camera?

Don't use alcohol on any important painted parts. It might be okay, might not, depends on the paint. A damp cloth might be all you need for most of it. Foam q-tips are helpful. Don't use alcohol on leatherette or bellows.

I've used neetsfoot oil on leather, leatherette and bellows, it hydrates, darkens, and gives it shine. Use in moderation.

The white dust looks like corrosion or paint loss.

The brilliant style viewfinders were not very good even when new. I'd ignore it and use the pop-up finder.

I think you can clean the rails and use some graphite powder.

There is a product called Rustoleum Rust Reformer that converts rust. I don't see any on this camera though.

I don't know what sort of cable release thread it has, but my 30's Voigtlander Bessas have a normal one. Even if the thread of your release is unusual, I think you can still trigger it by inserting any thin metal rod into the hole.

On that note — any suggestion for film? I plan on shooting architecture mostly while I learn the ins and outs. And perhaps some portraits of my daughters.

The lens will be relatively low contrast, so I'd go with slide film or Kodak Ektar for color, and something punchy for black and white, like Ilford Pan F, FP4+, or perhaps push one of the 400 speed films one stop.

You could see about locating a push-on filter holder for it and mount yellow, orange, red filters to help with contrast. It could also help to have a lens hood.

 

[giantelf]

Don't use alcohol on any important painted parts. It might be okay, might not, depends on the paint. A damp cloth might be all you need for most of it. Foam q-tips are helpful. Don't use alcohol on leatherette or bellows.

I've used neetsfoot oil on leather, leatherette and bellows, it hydrates, darkens, and gives it shine. Use in moderation.

The white dust looks like corrosion or paint loss.

The brilliant style viewfinders were not very good even when new. I'd ignore it and use the pop-up finder.

I think you can clean the rails and use some graphite powder.

There is a product called Rustoleum Rust Reformer that converts rust. I don't see any on this camera though.

I don't know what sort of cable release thread it has, but my 30's Voigtlander Bessas have a normal one. Even if the thread of your release is unusual, I think you can still trigger it by inserting any thin metal rod into the hole.



The lens will be relatively low contrast, so I'd go with slide film or Kodak Ektar for color, and something punchy for black and white, like Ilford Pan F, FP4+, or perhaps push one of the 400 speed films one stop.

You could see about locating a push-on filter holder for it and mount yellow, orange, red filters to help with contrast. It could also help to have a lens hood.

This great and appreciated information. Thank you for reading my post and responding with helpful info.

 

[blee1996]

I have something similar, a Voigtlander Avus. I will recommend to do some gentle cleaning, and start using it as soon as possible. Only through exposing film you can figure out if there is anything needs further work.

In terms of gentle cleaning:

- Soft brush and gentle air blower on the camera body and bellows, then wipe with a moist kitchen towel. No rubbing or scrubbing yet.
- You do need to clean the lens: both the front group and the back group should be able to be screwed off fairly easily. You can use a friction rubber/silicon sheet that is used to open jars. But don't put too much pressure on anything. Once the optical groups are out, first soft brush and air blowing to get rid of larger dust, then you can use eyeglass/lens cleaner, Q-Tip and microfiber cloth to clean the glass surfaces.
- If the shutter is working for most part, I will not attempt to clean it (yet).
- The focusing rail might be tight, but maybe you can live with it for the time being so you can shoot your first roll.
- The focus ground glass: you can clean the same way as the lens groups

And lastly, yes you should be able to use modern shutter release. They are pretty standard.

 

[giantelf]

I have something similar, a Voigtlander Avus. I will recommend to do some gentle cleaning, and start using it as soon as possible. Only through exposing film you can figure out if there is anything needs further work.

In terms of gentle cleaning:

- Soft brush and gentle air blower on the camera body and bellows, then wipe with a moist kitchen towel. No rubbing or scrubbing yet.
- You do need to clean the lens: both the front group and the back group should be able to be screwed off fairly easily. You can use a friction rubber/silicon sheet that is used to open jars. But don't put too much pressure on anything. Once the optical groups are out, first soft brush and air blowing to get rid of larger dust, then you can use eyeglass/lens cleaner, Q-Tip and microfiber cloth to clean the glass surfaces.
- If the shutter is working for most part, I will not attempt to clean it (yet).
- The focusing rail might be tight, but maybe you can live with it for the time being so you can shoot your first roll.
- The focus ground glass: you can clean the same way as the lens groups

And lastly, yes you should be able to use modern shutter release. They are pretty standard.

Thank You! The lens also has a crack on the edge. Have you been successful in sourcing additional lenses? What are they called? It is a 25mm screw mount.

 

[loccdor]

This might work. They're selling just the front part.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/365713012430

 

[giantelf]

This might work. They're selling just the front part.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/365713012430

Awesome! Great find. Not sure how I missed it.

 

[John Wiegerink]

This might help and you would have spare parts. I'm sure the lens elements would screw into your shutter and the finder mirrors are interchangeable. Go to eBay and search this item number: 167663184891. This camera is actually a better setup for architecture since it has front standard rise ability. That allows for framing tall buildings easier than a front standard that doesn't have the ability to rise. The price of this camera is very reasonable and your Rollex back will fit right on.

 

[giantelf]

This might help and you would have spare parts. I'm sure the lens elements would screw into your shutter and the finder mirrors are interchangeable. Go to eBay and search this item number: 167663184891. This camera is actually a better setup for architecture since it has front standard rise ability. That allows for framing tall buildings easier than a front standard that doesn't have the ability to rise. The price of this camera is very reasonable and your Rollex back will fit right on.

I just saw this reply. I searched and the Avus I found say it is for parts only. Also -- I am curious about the "front standard rise ability" I saw one other post that mentioned the VAG does not have this and is what sets it apart from the Avus but I think mine does? There is clever where I can raise an lower the lens. And if the camera is horizontal there is nut under the lens I can loosen to move it left to right -- which would by un and down horizontally -- as well. There is a painted white dot so I can bring it back to center.

I am assuming this is what is meant by "front standard rise ability?" See the photo embedded.

 

[giantelf]

You could see about locating a push-on filter holder for it and mount yellow, orange, red filters to help with contrast. It could also help to have a lens hood.

Thanks for this specific information about the filter holder. All of the "push on" filter holders I have seen appear to need to have pieces screw on before you can install the push on part. Are is a video showing the I mean:



I have yet to even start looking for one that fits the lens diameter of my camera. Is this what you are referring to? Or is there another piece of equipment that I should be looking for?

Thanks!

 

[giantelf]

Thanks for this specific information about the filter holder. All of the "push on" filter holders I have seen appear to need to have pieces screw on before you can install the push on part. Are is a video showing the I mean:



I have yet to even start looking for one that fits the lens diameter of my camera. Is this what you are referring to? Or is there another piece of equipment that I should be looking for?

Thanks!

You could see about locating a push-on filter holder for it and mount yellow, orange, red filters to help with contrast. It could also help to have a lens hood.

I just saw this reply. I searched and the Avus I found say it is for parts only. Also -- I am curious about the "front standard rise ability" I saw one other post that mentioned the VAG does not have this and is what sets it apart from the Avus but I think mine does? There is clever where I can raise an lower the lens. And if the camera is horizontal there is nut under the lens I can loosen to move it left to right -- which would by un and down horizontally -- as well. There is a painted white dot so I can bring it back to center.

I am assuming this is what is meant by "front standard rise ability?" See the photo embedded.

View attachment 418068

This might help and you would have spare parts. I'm sure the lens elements would screw into your shutter and the finder mirrors are interchangeable. Go to eBay and search this item number: 167663184891. This camera is actually a better setup for architecture since it has front standard rise ability. That allows for framing tall buildings easier than a front standard that doesn't have the ability to rise. The price of this camera is very reasonable and your Rollex back will fit right on.

I now see you said "for spare parts" and that the lens may work. But my question about the rise ability still stands. thanks.

 

[giantelf]

You could see about locating a push-on filter holder for it and mount yellow, orange, red filters to help with contrast. It could also help to have a lens hood.

or is this moire what you are talking about -- at lest for the lens hood -- and if I can find hone the correct 35mm size.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[giantelf]

You could see about locating a push-on filter holder for it and mount yellow, orange, red filters to help with contrast. It could also help to have a lens hood.

I am guessing something like this:

Pardon Our Interruption...

It is 36mm so it would fit. Sorry for all the replies!

 

[Besk]

I have a VAG. On mine,, to get rise with the lens you simply pull it up. On my
AVUS the front rise is geared. Both have front shift.

 

[loccdor]

I am guessing something like this:

Pardon Our Interruption...

It is 36mm so it would fit. Sorry for all the replies!

Could be. I've used ones like this, if they're not the exact size you bend the tabs slightly with pliers until they make a snug fit. These type of cameras had odd outer diameters so it can be a bit of a challenge. Series 5/6 filters are generally pretty cheap on the used market.